Looks good. What fan is that? It looks thiner and a little bigger that the Novak one I used.

Nice!! :nod:

bearings
 

does avid or boca already has some bearing kits for this truck? or do I have to get them all separate ?

I used the included 32pitch spur w/ a 12 tooth pinion. Subculture tires. At the end of the 10 minute main things were a little too warm for my liking though(160-170). Granted, it was a super hot day, but I'm going to have to borrow the fan idea posted on here.:nod:

I built mine with 30k in the front and 5K in the back(Chris J. set-up). The truck was really good.The car actually pushed a bit off power when trying to drive it smooth. The upside is that I didn't have to be subtle with turn in steering inputs at all. The truck wanted to be thrown around a little, very easy to drive consistently. It also had a lot of on power steering, so the fast way to get it around was to lift earlier and roll it on earlier. I probably shouldn't mess with it but I can't help myself, I am going to go lighter in the front my next time out and see if I can get a little more turn in steering.

I think you may have some binding issues if you're getting that hot with 12/62 gearing on the Tekin 550.... I'm sure the 4.5 will get warmer than the 5.5, but I'm running the 5.5 through heavy grass and running 10 minutes races against my buddy with the novak 5.5....both of us are geared at 14/62 and neither of us have been able to top 120 degrees yet, no matter what track layout we use.

Most nights were around 20 degrees celsius (just a touch cooler than room temp)

I'm having a hell of a time getting My Turnigy 5000's to fit, What battery's are you guys running?

Im running 40c 2s 5000ah gens ace hardcase, and turnigy nanotech 20-50c 2s 6000mah batteries(hard to fit in)

I plan on doing my tires tonight....will post results tomorrow morn. you definitely want to pull shocks apart and locktite piston screws. be sure to get a good hold by cleaning shock oil off screw and threads in shaft with motor spray.

i have a question if someone can help before i tear my car apart. (car has been running great for 20 packs) my car NOW has very little power in the rear but still full power in the front. i checked...no binding, hexs are fine, slipper/spur/pinion are good (obvious front wouldnt power if not), bones/cups good, diff feels fine (have not pulled it apart) any ideas ? my thought would be rear diff but it feels smooth and like it still is full of fluid. hope someone has an easy idea/fix.

hard to tell without looking at truck. could be a bearing. pull camber links off and let dogbone end of shaft come out of the outdrives. once free spin them in the uprights to ensure bearings spin freely. these are usually the first bearings to go. if both sides spin free and smooth you know problem is deeper.

one more thing tocheck with reguards to binding. if you take the wheels off for travel.....one time I put the wheels on at the track and I didn't notice the hex had unsnapped from axle pin...lettk.g the cva pin slide out partially. when I installed wheel and tightened wheel nut, I was tightening pin right into the outside of the bearing because the pin had slipped out. this caused major binding and could of easily broke cvapin. this is probably why some have broke theirs in the past.

You can also follow this guide on

http://twitter-badges.s3.amazonaws.com/twitter-a.png

and

http://www.coral.org/files/images/Fa...logo_small.jpg

Fan is from the castle blower thingie from the 3800 combo. Fits like it was meant to be there...

Try cutting up a piece of green scrub pad (Scotch-Brite) and using that to deflect debris/filter the air. I've used them in computers to filter the air. I'm not sure what temps the pad can take though. :(