So here is a question I've been pondering lately. If the SC10 4x4 is having such weight issues outside, why aren't more people running dual shorty packs? Adds more run time as well as weight. Is the fit that bad or what is it? Just thinking out loud really

XP Server horn
 

I just got a new XP servo for the truck. The futaba servo horn doesn't fit down on the servo very well. Is there a different horn that works better or do you just use the stock one that comes with the xp servo?

man I'm jealous!

I'm going to be replacing all my bearings with Avid as soon as I tear it down and redo everything and clean it up.

I'm also taking a break from 4x4 sct's, I want to concentrate more on my buggies. Now that my track is going to be allowing 1/8th buggies I'm going to be running both my 1/10th and 1/8th most of the time for now, and since 1/8th is expensive to run/maintain etc I don't want to be going broke trying to run a third vehicle all the time................

I'll still be coming back to this thread checking up on who's pissing off the Coyotemiester as well as how many people WC keeps pissing off :D

Same for me , just the buggy for a while till I get the itch to run the Sc again ....

Think another week and I will start racing the 4x4..


Anyone that has to get P.O.over a R/c car needs to

JUST CALM DOWN :nod::D

+100!:eek: That dude needs to punch himself extremely hard, than get a Japanese massage!:tire::lol:

Here is just a little clip where Mayfield speaks about this truck;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fv-PlwbKWig

I concur with Field's assessment, that it's overall, a good truck. It's undeniable durability and adjustability with a design like none other, are all facets of why i like this truck. I just see a ton of potential on this "against the norm", platform. Also, there instances in many high level, 1/1 scale racing classes when a new design/chassis/platform is brought to the scene, it takes a while for good setup's to catch up with the technology of the new vehicle. Often , those teams eventually improve and go on to be successful with the new radical design, that than all others try to emulate, b/c there older design is effectively out- dated, ala, f1 racing.

I have no idea how it happens, but I went through 3 screws before I decided to just keep the bent screw, since it won't survive 2 batteries before it is bent again.

I've never even see that screw bent on anyone's truck not just my own. Regarding the 7mm, that is where I am currently at as well and wondered how many you can get. I've seen people say 7mm and 8mm to keep the ball stud threading the metal. I also want to ask if people are using thread lock under the spacers.

wow okay well its just not me then.. sigh of relief.. but im so anal about my truck that i will replace it when it bends but the current screw i have in now is straight with a counter sink washer under it.. fingers crossed that it wont bend today during racing.. put it threw a good bash test yesterday and it didnt bend! but today is a different day...

i also run the xp1313.. i used the F horn that came with the kit.. fits perfect.

Happens when the truck gets a lawn dart landing ..
Yesterday saw a guy snap it clean off ...
Trcr has a big jump , if you land short ?

you nose it into the backside of jump

Trcr clay is just as hard concrete.:deathstar

U feel a big thump on the drivers stand when it happens..

I am sure it's a matter of time for me then! I see much more losi currently on the track so don't get to the see a lot of sc10 failures.

Coming up short on the big triple one time is enough for me to bend one. I made it better by taking the spacer out of the chassis and grinding the boss flat. That lets you lower the pivot ball and use a shorter screw, lessening the bending load on the screw.

Seems like it helped, and the price was right, but some of the more useless users on this thread won't approve because it involves sandpaper.:flaming:


Because where you put the weight is as important as how much weight you add. Dual short batteries add a about 150 grams, but they do it in the middle. You gain leverage the further you move the weight away from the center of the chassis.

I know this depends on many factors, but in your opinion, on a starting setup using stick pack or saddles, what would you want your weight to be on each tire if you had say 4 little electronic scales? I see that BK has added forward weight in front of the servo. Just wondering if you suggest balanced weight between all tires, or heavier front or rear. I have a package of Jegs 1/4 ounce weights layin around...let me know.

i know some like to add weight to their trucks and others dont. how do you feel about adding weight to a truck that uses a 540 sized motor like the castle 1410 ?