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Get the factory team kit only if you wanna be a G with a pimp ride!
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i had the factory team mounting setup with my ft sc10 4x4 but i didnt like it.
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Back from a good day at the track, although I had quite some issues with traction rolling in the high speed sweeper at the end of the straight. Track is astro turf, so high grip. I run the FT version, setup as per the manual. 540 can, saddles, yellow rear springs in rear, no 8mm mod etc. Tires proline hole shots M3.
Any idea on where to start for reducing traction rolling? At low speed corners I have no issues, can be fairly agressive.... |
Originally Posted by Pellefa
(Post 10966536)
Back from a good day at the track, although I had quite some issues with traction rolling in the high speed sweeper at the end of the straight. Track is astro turf, so high grip. I run the FT version, setup as per the manual. 540 can, saddles, yellow rear springs in rear, no 8mm mod etc. Tires proline hole shots M3.
Any idea on where to start for reducing traction rolling? At low speed corners I have no issues, can be fairly agressive.... |
Originally Posted by Pellefa
(Post 10966536)
Back from a good day at the track, although I had quite some issues with traction rolling in the high speed sweeper at the end of the straight. Track is astro turf, so high grip. I run the FT version, setup as per the manual. 540 can, saddles, yellow rear springs in rear, no 8mm mod etc. Tires proline hole shots M3.
Any idea on where to start for reducing traction rolling? At low speed corners I have no issues, can be fairly agressive.... In the rear, less washers under the ball studs or if there are none now, shorten the camber links by changing the mounting location. Or if the front end is where the traction roll is starting, thicker sway bar as said above. I think adding negative camber will also reduce side bite as well, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Trade off is less straight line traction with more camber though. |
Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 10966571)
Are you using the yellow front sway bar?
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There is A LOT of stuff to adjust on this truck. Probably too much!
I gave up trying to figure out what does what. There are most likely 2 or 3 ways (maybe more) to achieve any given setup goal with this vehicle. I am slowly learning NOT to take anyone else's setup advice. No 2 tracks are exactly alike, and no 2 drivers drive the same. Just pick one thing at a time to adjust, try it, be ready to change it back immediately if the desired effect is not achieved, and then try something else. One thing I'm working on now is adding weight. A metric shyte-ton of it. I currently race on a 1/8 scale outdoor track and I think more weight is essential to compete the wind and against the heavier Losi's. |
Originally Posted by Maddog94
(Post 10966710)
There is A LOT of stuff to adjust on this truck. Probably too much!
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did anyone else notice on Bks truck, the personal says for the id "dirtinator"
i had a good laugh over that :D |
Originally Posted by Maddog94
(Post 10966710)
I am slowly learning NOT to take anyone else's setup advice. No 2 tracks are exactly alike, and no 2 drivers drive the same. Not a good plan .... Instead use good set-ups like those listed on www.rc10.com... A Tip a good set-up will always perform great on the track conditions it is meant for .. Thus a good set-up always works and not just for someone who thinks they have a particular style.... When making changes to your set-up only change one thing and test till you are satisfied the change was good or bad before changing something else. |
I say go to a standard factory team setup then fine tune.
I just put 60g of ballast in front of servo. I also swapped to a 14 tooth pinion. I am ready to run. Gonna try to go down south to run on an outdoor track. |
Originally Posted by darryl80
(Post 10964435)
i am not a guy that can be patient and wait. if i have to i will take the best offer i can get so i can move onto something else.
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Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 10966744)
did anyone else notice on Bks truck, the personal says for the id "dirtinator"
i had a good laugh over that :D |
Wellll there are NO setups on rc 10 for a real dirt track they all seem to be for those Socal clay(asphalt) blue groove tracks where u guys run slicks lol.
We run on a loose dirty dusty almost 1/8 scale track and the thing is hard to get balanced. The rear end wants to pass the front in sweepers or coming out of tight corners. Currently started with the FT stock manual setup. running a castle 4 pole with M4 calibers. took off both swaybars and it helped... reduced preload a lot and that helped. after a couple of batteries the rear diff seemed to be locking up so that was it for night one. Now digging deep to access the diff. Is this diff a shim issue? |
Can you post your setup?
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