5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
05-22-2012, 07:33 PM
next subject?
I just went from dual garodisks to the pin mod with garodiscs and my added front slipper.
The truck is great! TQ'd the qualifiers and took second in the main after messing up pretty badly in the first lap. I'm very happy with the druck on my bumpy outdoor dirt track. it is MUCH easier to drive.
Now I'm ready for more power.
I bumped my timing up on my castle 3800 from 10* to 15 degrees. I am now having some issues with the current draw. I melted the solder joint off my deans plug and I only have one battery that runs with this setup, a Gens Ace 5000 40c. the others cut out, like a lipo cut off but at near full charge.
I am sure the motor is drawing a ton of amps, but its not getting over 165 deg in 10 min of running.
I am considering soldering two plugs to the ESC and Bateries to share the load so i think I can solve that problem.
my question is, can anyone recommend a battery solution that will keep up with the amperage? I am considering:
1) two 3.7v 1/12 scale packs for their low CG. reedy makes a 6500 65c that would be perfect if it performs as adertised. or a pair of the orion 90c look tempting but that 90c rating looks too good to be true, and I just dont know if the 1/12 batteries are really designed for that much load.
2) The gens ace 6000 saddle packs, seem popular but I dont really want the hassle of trying to squeeze them under the belt. ( or the High CG).
3) two 7.4v shorty packs in parallel. (reedy 4000 60c)
I expect these would be beasts, but are they anywhere close to being legal in an intermediate 4x4 class?
besides, " thats too much timing for a four pole" does anyone have any recommendation on the connector and battery issue?
I just went from dual garodisks to the pin mod with garodiscs and my added front slipper.
The truck is great! TQ'd the qualifiers and took second in the main after messing up pretty badly in the first lap. I'm very happy with the druck on my bumpy outdoor dirt track. it is MUCH easier to drive.
Now I'm ready for more power.
I bumped my timing up on my castle 3800 from 10* to 15 degrees. I am now having some issues with the current draw. I melted the solder joint off my deans plug and I only have one battery that runs with this setup, a Gens Ace 5000 40c. the others cut out, like a lipo cut off but at near full charge.
I am sure the motor is drawing a ton of amps, but its not getting over 165 deg in 10 min of running.
I am considering soldering two plugs to the ESC and Bateries to share the load so i think I can solve that problem.
my question is, can anyone recommend a battery solution that will keep up with the amperage? I am considering:
1) two 3.7v 1/12 scale packs for their low CG. reedy makes a 6500 65c that would be perfect if it performs as adertised. or a pair of the orion 90c look tempting but that 90c rating looks too good to be true, and I just dont know if the 1/12 batteries are really designed for that much load.
2) The gens ace 6000 saddle packs, seem popular but I dont really want the hassle of trying to squeeze them under the belt. ( or the High CG).
3) two 7.4v shorty packs in parallel. (reedy 4000 60c)
I expect these would be beasts, but are they anywhere close to being legal in an intermediate 4x4 class?
besides, " thats too much timing for a four pole" does anyone have any recommendation on the connector and battery issue?
05-22-2012, 09:25 PM
Those get loose and arc creating a bunch of heat that will melt solder and other things you don't want to melt.
The deans plug is one part of the connection, but the bullet is another part that plays a big role in transferring power. If your running a lipo that has wires straight out to your deans and not wires direct from esc to lipo posts that you plug into... disregard all of the above
Last edited by fq06; 05-22-2012 at 09:41 PM.
05-22-2012, 09:31 PM
Tech Initiate
GensAce makes a 5000 40c 2 cell lipo. I have two of them, but have retired them for the Pro Match batteries. Great pricing and I notice the difference. I got the 2S 6000 Mah 60C Hard Case Lipo Pack for my SC10 2wd (replacing the GensAce 5000 40c) and the 2S 5200 Mah 60C Hard Case Saddle Lipo Pack. I bought the GensAce 6000 saddles, but they did not fit the FT SC10 4x4, they pushed up on the belt cover, so I sold them. It is true that GensAce only has 25c in saddle packs. http://www.promatchracing.com/products.php?cat=38
On another note, Matis seems to have his trucks dialed, so using his baseline should be a good starting point, then modify it to your own driving style, track and equipment.
On another note, Matis seems to have his trucks dialed, so using his baseline should be a good starting point, then modify it to your own driving style, track and equipment.
Last edited by Eradicator; 05-22-2012 at 09:32 PM. Reason: Forgot to post the link
05-22-2012, 09:56 PM
The gens ace are only 25c and if you are already having current issues you dont need that problem. 15* STATIC timing is too much but if you have boost capabilities you can bring the timing in later in the power band and have no issues with current draw AND have faster speeds
05-22-2012, 10:04 PM
Getting ready to build the FT for the outdoor tracks..to all you "haters"..see I do have 2 of them..
05-22-2012, 10:57 PM
Tech Rookie
Thanks for all of the replys.
Regarding the 15* timing. castle 3800 is sensorless so I cant put in a timing curve. but what I can do is use the current limiter in the MMP SC edition. that might allow me to run too much timing without hurting things. its worth testing.
any recommendation on the 3 battery configurations?
my question is, can anyone recommend a battery solution that will keep up with the amperage? I am considering:
1) two 3.7v 1/12 scale packs for their low CG. reedy makes a 6500 65c that would be perfect if it performs as adertised. or a pair of the orion 90c look tempting but that 90c rating looks too good to be true, and I just dont know if the 1/12 batteries are really designed for that much load.
2) standard 1/10 scale packs.
3) two 7.4v shorty packs in parallel. (reedy 4000 60c)
I expect these would be beasts, but are they anywhere close to being legal in an intermediate 4x4 class?
Regarding the 15* timing. castle 3800 is sensorless so I cant put in a timing curve. but what I can do is use the current limiter in the MMP SC edition. that might allow me to run too much timing without hurting things. its worth testing.
any recommendation on the 3 battery configurations?
my question is, can anyone recommend a battery solution that will keep up with the amperage? I am considering:
1) two 3.7v 1/12 scale packs for their low CG. reedy makes a 6500 65c that would be perfect if it performs as adertised. or a pair of the orion 90c look tempting but that 90c rating looks too good to be true, and I just dont know if the 1/12 batteries are really designed for that much load.
2) standard 1/10 scale packs.
3) two 7.4v shorty packs in parallel. (reedy 4000 60c)
I expect these would be beasts, but are they anywhere close to being legal in an intermediate 4x4 class?
05-22-2012, 11:17 PM
a castle 3800kv is a 4-pole motor, they do not like much timing
the poles are closer together than a normal 2 pole motor. So a lot of timing is not good.
the poles are closer together than a normal 2 pole motor. So a lot of timing is not good.
05-22-2012, 11:23 PM
WC - are you saying that the geometry in the new FT kit has changed slightly from the original (standard) kit??? I was (ignorantly) unaware of this.
I bought the sc10 4x4 kit when it first came out a year ago and had it driving very nicely by putting 4mm spacers under the front inside camber studs, and 6mm under rear inside camber studs (along with a few other mods).
If the geometry has changed, are these spacers no longer 'suggested' on the new FT model???
I have the outside camber position mod (#9873 Carbon C Hub) part on order, do I need to raise the inside rear stud 7mm if using this part, as mentioned a few pages back?
05-22-2012, 11:38 PM
Tech Rookie
05-22-2012, 11:43 PM
SHIMS 5x10x.3
I know this is old news&(a lil' annoying) at this point, but
I spoke with some1 at AE & they are sending me the 5x10x.03
shims also...
The reason for this post is:
He said; "In the original SC10 4x4 the differentials
did not have an issue"
which i have the original. Bought it the kit the 1st month it came out.
I just thought this was interesting, because, what??
They changed the diffs since they 1st came out & the issue
got worse with the newer kits & FT kits???
When i 1st built mine I was having the rear clicking issue,
but when i loosened the screws holding the DIFF case up, it stopped.
I think i will throw the .03 shims in anyway, don't think it could hurt.
THX
I spoke with some1 at AE & they are sending me the 5x10x.03
shims also...
The reason for this post is:
He said; "In the original SC10 4x4 the differentials
did not have an issue"
which i have the original. Bought it the kit the 1st month it came out.
I just thought this was interesting, because, what??
They changed the diffs since they 1st came out & the issue
got worse with the newer kits & FT kits???
When i 1st built mine I was having the rear clicking issue,
but when i loosened the screws holding the DIFF case up, it stopped.
I think i will throw the .03 shims in anyway, don't think it could hurt.
THX
05-22-2012, 11:51 PM
Tech Regular
Guys, checked my front and rear arms, they all have some warping at the wheel end but are not binding at all either end, I don't mind getting RPM arms but was wondering if these arms would affect the handling of the truck much, or at all? My trucks going pretty good, the racing just gone came down to driving, not the trucks, I beat the Losi's one race by over half a lap, a Rango won, next race there was about four seconds from second too fourth place, and nothing between the trucks. I did find I'd lost one lot of shock oil in the rear after the race. After the race I had a drive of a Losi, didn't like it at all, going to make my truck work!
05-23-2012, 01:33 AM
05-23-2012, 02:30 AM
Tech Adept
Regarding the timing on 4 pole motors. I have a Tenshock SC411 4000kv and a hobbyking 120a ESC. We don't race short course in my club so I race it round our track between buggy heats and often use full packs, to keep the temps down should I use the programme card to set the timing to zero degrees? I currently run 15/62 but have a 14t as well.
05-23-2012, 03:16 AM
when I say " no temp problems "
I mean temps are below 170F for at least 10 minutes of racing
I mean temps are below 170F for at least 10 minutes of racing
05-23-2012, 05:32 AM
Anyone know what size set screws go in the Associated pinion gears? Lost my second one yesterday, thanks for any help.