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Old 04-13-2012, 08:34 AM
  #21346  
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Originally Posted by SCTDan
When I ran the MTK basket I liked 20/5 for our outdoor track. If you have extra front springs you may want to try white or blue front springs on the rear and go up to 30wt. It will jump better and have better on power steering. I run my ride height at 24 to 23 mm. Helps stability in big sweepers and high speed turns. Have you spaced up the inner ball studs of the camber links? if not try 4mm front and rear.
Thanks
I have some extra blue front springs. What does running the front springs n the rear do? I currently have 2mm of spacers under th inner rear ball studs. I will make he adjustments
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:35 AM
  #21347  
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It makes it jump much better.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
It makes it jump much better.
It this because they are shorter and/or different spring rating?
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:37 AM
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Different spring rate, they are much stiffer and equalize the f/r wheel rate.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:42 AM
  #21350  
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Thanks, I'll try these changes. Is it normal to have the slipper nut adjusted to show a thread or two inside the nut while running the MTK with 3 garodiscs? If I tighten down more the truck was squirrelly indoors on wet clay.

Last edited by Resqnu; 04-13-2012 at 08:42 AM. Reason: Edited
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:44 AM
  #21351  
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Originally Posted by Resqnu
I have been running indoor. I will be running outdoor on a 1/8 track this weekend and have a few questions. What diff fluid do you guys recommend? (10/5, 7,5. 7/3). I am more of a smooth driver vs aggressive. Any other setup help is appreciated.
Here is my setup:
Tekin rx8 & 4.5
Exotek chassis
Stick pack
MTK slipper w/ garodiscs
Shocks 32.5f/27.5r
Springs yellow f/blue r
Ride height 25mm with body
Definitely get blue front springs for the rear. Depending how technical the track is , go 10/5 or 20/5

I encourage you to get a center diff.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:45 AM
  #21352  
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And some two stage pistons while your at it.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:52 AM
  #21353  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Definitely get blue front springs for the rear. Depending how technical the track is , go 10/5 or 20/5

I encourage you to get a center diff.
Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
And some two stage pistons while your at it.
I have been following this thread for a while. Does the center diff help alot? Any inf will be helpful. I'm asking because i was about to give up on this truck while inside, but wanted to try it outside. Plus it is a challenge and want to try to get a few things under control and learn more.

Are the 2stage pistons preferred? Can you give a description of what they accomplish.

I have no problem buying both if they help this truck and make a big difference, as I really like the truck. I'm just having a hard time with a few things.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:54 AM
  #21354  
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The center diff helps a ton!
The 2-stage pistons let you control rebound and dampening separately.
So you land normally coming off of jumps but your shocks respond mush faster over bumps.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:01 AM
  #21355  
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Center diff will make your truck accelerate a lot harder. Definitely what you want for big tracks.
If you run on bumpy surfaces the two ways keep it planted and you go full throttle thru rutty stuff.

I think you'd like going with saddle packs too. Balances it better and improves handling.

I want every advantage I have out there.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:03 AM
  #21356  
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Originally Posted by JLinney
That will work like a spool in a drag car. Good luck getting it to go around a corner
Lots of 4wd sedans run spools in the front. They push on power, the solution is to overdrive the front.

The biggest practical problem with a spool in the front (or using 60K, for that matter) becomes durability of the driveline parts (the pins in the CVA's and the outdrives).
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:18 AM
  #21357  
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I don't think it would work well with the guys running the center diff.

Be interesting to see if it helps though. Worth a try I guess.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:25 AM
  #21358  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Lots of 4wd sedans run spools in the front. They push on power, the solution is to overdrive the front.

The biggest practical problem with a spool in the front (or using 60K, for that matter) becomes durability of the driveline parts (the pins in the CVA's and the outdrives).
They also have alot more traction available to the turning tires via the asphalt, concrete or carpet that they run on. Apples and oranges imo.
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:12 AM
  #21359  
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Got to the run the new Ae v2 slipper last night for the first time .



O-man !



I`m faster now, look out !



Nice work Ae , used a Ae heavy duty pad on the very back & the included pads ....



Dialed !

Fresh body & a new set of shoes today.. ( JConcept pressure points)

yesterday
new rpm arms , new Ae conversion kit & a little extra blue eye candy...
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:14 AM
  #21360  
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Ok so other than the center diff what else should I do to mine to bulletproof it?

Should I pick up the strc pulleys? Strc steering rack?

And what is a MTK slipper w/ garodiscs?

Also what's the deal with front springs on the rear? Can't you just order a harder spring for the rear and accomplish the same thing. What is so different about the front springs that make them worthy of putting on rear? Also what is the part number for the springs I would need for the rear?


I'm TOTALLY new to this truck so please bear with me if these questions have been asked before. I just want to know all there is to know about the truck before it hits the track again. My first run on my track was pathetic. I could have outran it with my old blitz. The truck was squirrely and all over the place. I couldn't put ANY power down at all without it looping out. I have since bought front and rear swaybars and some +3mm wheels so I know that will help the stability some.
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