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Old 04-12-2012 | 10:51 AM
  #21271  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Try 10k in ft & no over drive

dailed

more steering from thicker oil , all smoothed out by not using overdrive

use 7k in back with



Thicker in ft = more on-power steer ,
I am using the same and agree. Not using overdrive either. Just ordered the v2 center diff on monday and got the email yesterday that its on the way. I was surprised it was so happy but not complaining one bit. Should I keep the oils the same in the front/rear?
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Old 04-12-2012 | 10:56 AM
  #21272  
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I personally would keep them the same and see how it feels with the center diff. Give you a baseline to compare to.

Thats cool he got yours out that fast. I hope to see something next week then for me, hopefully.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 12:53 PM
  #21273  
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okay guys just finished my factory team kit, and was going to head out to the track. tossed it down on the garage floor to test it out and when I turn the wheels all the way to the right I lose drive and I can hear something slipping? Any thoughts? I am extremely careful when building but guess I could have missed something.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 12:58 PM
  #21274  
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I built my FT finally glued wheels to it and put on the floor to rOll it, and it won't even spin, then I heard a click and everything feels free and smooth like it should. Is it safe to run?
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Old 04-12-2012 | 01:00 PM
  #21275  
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I've dry built my shocks today with boots and the little rubber bumper, I've cut a hole in the boot to add venting on compression and tomorrow I will test for binding in the out drives.
From what I've seen it's one thick one above the rear spring mount and one thin one under the front spring mount. Is this correct?
Also, it was very hard to screw the shock ends on but I didn't know how far to screw them on. There are two lines above the threads in the shaft, is it up to the first one?
Do people still undo the shock eyelets 3 turns, is it 3 turns from the top off the threads and what does that achieve?
Thank you.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 01:09 PM
  #21276  
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It allows more droop, you don't have to build them that way.

For the center diff, use 7 k in front and 5 k in back.

If your truck rolls smooth now, then go ahead n have fun!

Turning to the right and losing drive is weird. Make sure there's no binding anywhere.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 01:10 PM
  #21277  
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wow everybody has questions lol now I don't feel so bad.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 01:21 PM
  #21278  
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It's only when turned to full lock if that makes sense
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Old 04-12-2012 | 01:23 PM
  #21279  
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The click and now free may have been a stuck CVD in the out drive that has popped in and now free.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 01:29 PM
  #21280  
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just ordered my first rcshox product. Get me that center diff!!! Thanks everyone for all of the input!
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Old 04-12-2012 | 01:47 PM
  #21281  
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You should drive with the slipper first to see how much of a difference it makes.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 02:56 PM
  #21282  
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Hi all. I will be racing my SC10 4x4 for the first time Saturday at PRCR, indoors on the clay. NOT a factory team kit, I wish... I got it in trade from a guy in Ohio that goes by the name of CrookedFinger... Should be fun...
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Old 04-12-2012 | 05:14 PM
  #21283  
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
I built my FT finally glued wheels to it and put on the floor to rOll it, and it won't even spin, then I heard a click and everything feels free and smooth like it should. Is it safe to run?
Originally Posted by motobigalow
okay guys just finished my factory team kit, and was going to head out to the track. tossed it down on the garage floor to test it out and when I turn the wheels all the way to the right I lose drive and I can hear something slipping? Any thoughts? I am extremely careful when building but guess I could have missed something.
Check the pin in the CVA. One of the caps that covers the pin in the CVA was missing in my RTR and was causing similar issues.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 05:28 PM
  #21284  
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Jconcepts Winter Nationals is this weekend at Mikes Hobby Shop in Dallas, TX. It will be on LiveRC this weekend. 4w SC is the biggest class at this round.

Marcus is running his SC10 4w at this event. Kody from AE is there as well as a few other big names. Should be a good race to check in on over the weekend.
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Old 04-12-2012 | 05:30 PM
  #21285  
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
I built my FT finally glued wheels to it and put on the floor to rOll it, and it won't even spin, then I heard a click and everything feels free and smooth like it should. Is it safe to run?
It could have popped in place like mentioned above but I would pull the CVA's out and check the silver pins that are press fit in them. These are the silver pins that run in the slots of the outdrives. Give them a good squeeze to make sure they are tight. My truck did that for about a month before I figured out that one of those silver pins was loose. It would slip out and catch the a-arm causing it to lock up. Before I saw what it was I was usually at the races and freaked out when I had it up on the stand spinning the wheels before running. As I would monkey around with the tires trying to spin them it would make a loud click and then it would spin and run fine. It never caused an issue while actually running (by luck/chance I'm sure). The silver pin doesn't completey fall out of the CVA and it doesn't slip/offset in both directions. It just slips from centered to one side and back but it is relativey stiff. It doesn't rattle around or back and forth when you shake it either.
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