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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

fq06 04-07-2012 12:46 PM


Originally Posted by SAMCRO (Post 10571499)
I just got an SC 4x4 and already broke the front steering rack. Does anyone make an aluminum rack? Also, are there any other hop ups that are must haves with the SC 10 4x4?

thanks!

Strc makes one. Check that the tension nut is not too tight though. That may be why you broke.

Strc also makes hinge pin holders that are nice. I broke the stock plastic rear 3-2 part and replaced with aluminum and also the front while I was at it.
Aluminum wheel hex's should be first on your upgrade list.

JEFFs SC10 04-07-2012 12:54 PM

I woulda had 4 th today if my deans connector didn't unsolder itself on the last friggin lap.
:mad:

BlueGlowBoy 04-07-2012 12:57 PM


Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 10571529)
Aluminum wheel hex's should be first on your upgrade list.

Funny thing about the FT aluminum hexes....I couldn't get them to actually hold onto the shaft. I blue loctited them, tightened them down as tight as I could, and still managed to pull 3 out of 4 off with the wheels.... did the same thing with the plastic 4x4 stockers, and the 2wd RS hex conversion....stock KMC wheels. I am so tired of having to reinstall hexes when I swap wheels!!!!

I tightened the grub screws so hard that I partially stripped the insides....going to try to get some hardened steel grubs and see if that helps any....

BlueGlowBoy 04-07-2012 01:00 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 10571542)
I woulda had 4 th today if my deans connector didn't unsolder itself on the last friggin lap.
:mad:

Did you use flux when soldering, or did you rely on the rosin core stuff from RadioShack? I watched one of our top electric guys re-do all of my deans connectors AND the 5 posts on the RX8 and 3 posts on the SC4x that I run (We were driving 6 hours to an out-of-town race together and he didn't want to have any soldering problems while we were at the race) and he used a small glob of flux before tinning any of the wires. It seemed to do a really great job, and since then, I haven't had any problems with wiring.

jayrat 04-07-2012 01:02 PM

Thanks for posting pics Eradicator. That truly is weird. I can't remember what the inside of mine look like but I'm hoping I have the right ones installed...My o-ring was definitely not showing when I took them apart.

fq06 04-07-2012 01:04 PM


Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy (Post 10571547)
I tightened the grub screws so hard that I partially stripped the insides....going to try to get some hardened steel grubs and see if that helps any....

Yeah, the grubs are a pretty soft metal. If you can torque down on a better screw, that should hold it. Those stock wheels hex's are pretty tight also.

Strc and a couple other companies make a nice wheel hex as well for Samcro who has not bought them.

Also, losi blue option wheel nuts are better than stock or the traxxas ones to add another part to the upgrade list.

Arakon 04-07-2012 01:27 PM


Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 10571449)
The only thing that's left is the cartige and caps with fresh threads.

I'd agree if it was just one shock, but it's all four of them.

IRM616 04-07-2012 01:47 PM

looking to buy Yellow Hazard but no luck.

SCTDan 04-07-2012 02:00 PM


Originally Posted by IRM616 (Post 10571664)
looking to buy Yellow Hazard but no luck.

DE Racing has there new +3 offsets in yellow, white, black, and silver. Worth a look. I have two sets and love them

fq06 04-07-2012 02:18 PM


Originally Posted by Arakon (Post 10571618)
I'd agree if it was just one shock, but it's all four of them.

I guess if its not the parts, it's the build. I have rebuilt shocks and had one leak, rebuilt it and all good. Most of the time I don't leak, but on occasion I do. Must be an error on that one shock that I built.

Do you build them with or without rebound? I build with zero rebound.

IRM616 04-07-2012 02:18 PM


Originally Posted by SCTDan (Post 10571686)
DE Racing has there new +3 offsets in yellow, white, black, and silver. Worth a look. I have two sets and love them

i was looking for the jconcepts. I know about DE Racing. Thanks for da help.:)

Arakon 04-07-2012 02:46 PM


Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 10571729)
I guess if its not the parts, it's the build. I have rebuilt shocks and had one leak, rebuilt it and all good. Most of the time I don't leak, but on occasion I do. Must be an error on that one.

Do you build them with or without rebound? I build with zero rebound.

Half, as the manual suggests.

JEFFs SC10 04-07-2012 02:59 PM


Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy (Post 10571553)
Did you use flux when soldering, or did you rely on the rosin core stuff from RadioShack? I watched one of our top electric guys re-do all of my deans connectors AND the 5 posts on the RX8 and 3 posts on the SC4x that I run (We were driving 6 hours to an out-of-town race together and he didn't want to have any soldering problems while we were at the race) and he used a small glob of flux before tinning any of the wires. It seemed to do a really great job, and since then, I haven't had any problems with wiring.

No I didn't. It was a pretty good solder joint too. Sucks cause it happened with 5 seconds left on the race, literally the last lap. I was 4th and on my way to getting 3rd.

JEFFs SC10 04-07-2012 03:10 PM

so I was more focused more on my 2wd buggy than I was 4wd. Managed to get 2nd, so I'm happy with that but man 2wd buggy's are hard to drive outdoors!! I got beat by over 2 laps from a sponsored driver :lol: It's only my second race in buggy though.

Now onto 4wd.
I ran the same setup as before but I changed my front servo from Savox to Hitec. Guess what? No more brownout! :nod:

I ran 30 wt oil in front and 25 wt in rear and on one set of triple I would slap HARD, hard enough where I think it made my esc reset once. Truck ran really great on the rest of the track. So I think I'm going to bump up oil to 32.5 f and 30 or 27.5 in the rear. That should tightened things up handling wise I think.

Truck ran great, only had one problem, the motor screws backed out and the pinion dropped down in the first qualifier. that was a quick fix.

Now as for The driver-NOT SO MUCH. - didn't get good sleep last night and was having problems focusing and wasn't driving aggressively enough BUT I am happy that I was a shoe in for 4th place against some really good drivers in the A main.

When we ran for fun after the race was over, I kicked their butts.. :weird: I guess maybe cause the pressure was off and I had something to prove. LOL :blush:

The best thing about today was getting more track time and getting more comfortable. Next race I'm not taking any prisoners. :sneaky:

fq06 04-07-2012 03:41 PM


Originally Posted by Arakon (Post 10571792)
Half, as the manual suggests.

Try zero rebound, I prefer how it handles stock piston or 2 stage piston. And that is about the only thing I can think of between your shocks that leak and mine that don't :D
Atfer that, if your still leaking, I got nothing.


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