R/C Tech Forums - SC10 4x4 Thread

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 9500511)

I saw a new top shaft design & slipper plate today .......:sneaky:

There's a pin on the shaft now
and
the slipper plate locks onto the pin like the old B-3 transmission.....:cool:

So ThunderbirdJunkie can use his old B2 slipper parts that are laying around? Fantastic!

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 9500521)

So ThunderbirdJunkie can use his old B2 slipper parts that are laying around? Fantastic!

O-sure .....

Cool to know new parts may be available soon for the slipper....:tire:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 9500511)

I saw a new top shaft design & slipper plate today .......:sneaky:

There's a pin on the shaft now
and
the slipper plate locks onto the pin like the old B-3 transmission.....:cool:

If I have to BUY that? and not have it warranty'd, I'm going to be upset. I've already spent more trying to fix their problem. I love associated, don't get me wrong. But Come the $%^#! on...

I just bought a Factory team rear upper shaft yesterday and installed it tonight.....that will stink if they have a new design out now.

Hey are most of you guys running 32p or 48p? I ran 48p for a few batteries today at the track and it seemed a bit smoother....I also liked how much quieter it was.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9500583)

If I have to BUY that? and not have it warranty'd, I'm going to be upset. I've already spent more trying to fix their problem. I love associated, don't get me wrong. But Come the $%^#! on...

Get someone to help .:nod:

I have not had any issues or problems with the slipper, but I do use the heavy duty pads ....

I have seen racers fry slippers many times , its easy to do, so don't feel bad.

Remember, very important to adjust the thing correctly....

Does anyone know what the difference in the Factory team shiny dog bones vs factory ones? Is it a different material/stronger then stock?

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry1me (Post 9500624)

Does anyone know what the difference in the Factory team shiny dog bones vs factory ones? Is it a different material/stronger then stock?

Mostly looks , but the chrome is a hard coating that adds a little extra strength & better wear ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry1me (Post 9500624)

Does anyone know what the difference in the Factory team shiny dog bones vs factory ones? Is it a different material/stronger then stock?

I don't know about Associated's CVAs but MIP's CVDs had both stock black and shiny and the shiny CVD bones were definately stronger than the stock black ones.

I had a better time running mine this weekend...but can't wait to install the slipper basket. I have a dual fan setup on my motor (though with the 8.5 I really don't need it) and I think if I can get full power to the wheels I'll have enough umph to clear a couple set of triples in the middle of the track. Right now, I'm landing on the peak of the third jump if I hit it just right.

I just saw STRC now has hop ups for our truck :nod: Personally I think I will go for the motor plate & hopefully the shock collars will thread on the AE bodies.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 9500616)

That has nothing to do with my problem. But thanks.

If I can get my dog bone issue/slipper issue/slippinig pinion figured out I would be pretty happy....if not I will be looking for a SCTE. I like the way it handles now that I have it dialed in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLbound (Post 9500691)

I just saw STRC now has hop ups for our truck :nod: Personally I think I will go for the motor plate & hopefully the shock collars will thread on the AE bodies.

STRC having hopups for the SC10 4x4 means you should wait for the FT ones. All of their parts ThunderbirdJunkie has used on his SC10 2w and his XXX-SCT developed slop EXTREMELY quickly.

Read my previous post Coyote, as I think and hope this may help;

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarqueeRc (Post 9490660)

I think those having slipper issues will have hvae better success by adding the washers or extra washer behind the slipper thrust spacer rather than between the spring and slipper plate...In essence your adding one or two more slipper thrust washers instead of the one supplied and recommended for use on the kit (as described per manual instructions)..This has been the only remedy I have needed for my slipper in the truck...No slipper clutch basket needed??:tire::tire:

Also if you have so much heat being produced in the rear area I would check and make sure you installed the slipper thrust spacer in correctly (Its behind the spur and rear pulley)..To get to it you have to dissesemble the rear and slide the motor out..Check to make sure its in right side up as the manual shows..This has caused many (that I have read and seen) to overheat the rear housing while also melting there slipper pads, spur gear, and there slipper spring...This can cause alot of damage in the slipper assembly while subsequently destroying the slipper thrust bearing.. Hope this adds some insight to those running into slipper issues..

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...lipperGear.jpg[/QUOTE]

Its 91090, the first part in that image is the slipper thrust spacer, then the slipper thrust bearing, and then the slipper thrust washer.. The manual as that image shows has just one slipper thrust washer, put one or two more of those washers there if you are slipping excessively, its better to put the washers there than putting them between the slipper plate and spring imo..

Some put that slipper thrust spacer in backwards causing a heap of more issues, like melting your slipper assembly and spur...:tire:

Quote:

Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9500426)

I love you guys... I'm stumped.

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5...0822054851.jpg
(this is where you may be saying I take too many pictures. NO Confusion I say!

Thanks alot guys. Help this guy out.

Check your spacer bc based on your pics it seems that i can see the lip of the slipper thrust spacer sticking out, which if so would indicate that it was assembled incorrectly, and causing your slipper issues..Page 27 of the manual shows in which way the spacer should be assembled, with the lip going into the shaft housing (not out as it seems your photo shows, which I have done and seen others do causing major slipper problems, including excessive slipping, excessive slipper heat, melting spurs and pads with no regard)..

MarqueeRc thinks its worth checking :nod::D

if your bending cva's and your not crshing, your cva's are catching on the diff outdrives. to check this, fully compress the a-arm, (dont just bottom the truck out on the ground) then turn the wheel or cva to check to see if it catches, if so, then put in some limmiters.