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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

Resqnu 03-29-2012 07:27 AM


Originally Posted by Resqnu (Post 10531519)
Guys, I've been following this thread for a while and enjoyed the great info that's been provided. I really like this truck, but I'm having an issue with this truck at a local indoor damp clay track. As soon as I come out of a 90 degree turn and get straightened up for the long back straight. I grab the throttle and the truck is squirrelly down the 100ft straight away. Is this normal? I don't see everyone having this problem. I'm running a rx8, tekin 4.5 w/13 t pinion, shocks middle on top and putter on arms, yellow springs all the way around, 24mm ride height with body and ss JConcepts BarCodes on hazards. Everyone mostly runs slicks on ths track. Need help.


Originally Posted by FRONTI3R (Post 10531642)
What are you running for Diff. oils? I've had this same issue when the oil leaked out of the diff. You tried running sway bars?

My diffs are 5/r and 10/f. I change my diffs after every race day so diffs have plenty of fluid. I am running blue f/r sway bars, Exotek chassis and stick packs.

FRONTI3R 03-29-2012 07:48 AM

Resqnu,
Now that I think of it, my buddy had that same issue when his wheel nuts were on too tight. It was so tight that it was melting the plastic on the hubs.

If that's not the issue you could try:
-3-3 rear tow block "thinking it might be squating too much on the high bite"
- stiffer sway bar on the rear.
- heavier rear diff. oil "since maybe it's diffing out"
- Lower your roll centre

A short term solution when this happens to you while your racing is to just be smoother on your throttle application at the start of the straight section. sometime it's all about damage control. ;)

Cain 03-29-2012 07:50 AM


Originally Posted by sbrewer (Post 10530552)
Does anyone have a set up for a lose big 1/8 out door track? Also It seemed like the losis could put down the power more. They also seemed way more torque and were able to clear jumps with alot less effort. I geared up to a 17tooth pinion on my novak 5.5 hv just to keep up. Any Suggestions?

I am assuming no clutch basket of any sort or garodiscs? What really surprised to see how much a difference that made between my SC104x4 and another drivers RTR SC104x4. Pretty much had to pull his throttle like 1/3 of the way to get it to move.


Originally Posted by RossNZ (Post 10530616)
I hate to say this, but the Losi just seems better on the loose big tracks, been getting my butt handed to me on this style track as well, as much as I love this truck, I now wish I bought the Losi, (there I said what i'm sure many are thinking) I feel i'm driving good, truck just does not get the power down, going to try the FT slipper and or the ball diff before I give up tho, but am saving for a new truck.

One of the those items should really put some power down.


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10531195)
The Truck can divide by Zero.

LOL. does the impossible ...

Resqnu 03-29-2012 08:00 AM


Originally Posted by FRONTI3R (Post 10531779)
Resqnu,
Now that I think of it, my buddy had that same issue when his wheel nuts were on too tight. It was so tight that it was melting the plastic on the hubs.

If that's not the issue you could try:
-3-3 rear tow block "thinking it might be squating too much on the high bite"
- stiffer sway bar on the rear.
- heavier rear diff. oil "since maybe it's diffing out"
- Lower your roll centre

A short term solution when this happens to you while your racing is to just be smoother on your throttle application at the start of the straight section. sometime it's all about damage control. ;)

I have noticed that 2 of my hazards wheels are rounded out or melted where the 12mm hex goes. I'm running the FT aluminum hexes. I do tighten the wheel nuts down, as I thought the wheels coming loose causes the wheel damage.

Thanks for the info. I will try these. I was hoping this truck would drive like a 1/8 ebuggy......not!

jhhack 03-29-2012 08:04 AM

Anyone know anywhere that has the exotech chasis in stock?

Cain 03-29-2012 08:12 AM

these ship direct from exotek:

http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/1162.htm

If you are a member its $5 cheaper

kjohnsiii 03-29-2012 08:27 AM


Originally Posted by jhhack (Post 10531851)
Anyone know anywhere that has the exotech chasis in stock?

Ordered mine from here and got it in 4 days directly from exotek!
http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/1162.htm

FRONTI3R 03-29-2012 08:32 AM


Originally Posted by Resqnu (Post 10531838)
I have noticed that 2 of my hazards wheels are rounded out or melted where the 12mm hex goes. I'm running the FT aluminum hexes. I do tighten the wheel nuts down, as I thought the wheels coming loose causes the wheel damage.

Thanks for the info. I will try these.

These are the wheel nuts I use:
4mm Aluminum Flanged Serrated Nuts (Blue) (4) [TRA1747R]

The wheel nuts don't need to be on tight when you use these. I've had them for a full year now without any issues what so ever.
http://c456141.r41.cf0.rackcdn.com/i...tra1747r_1.jpg

jhhack 03-29-2012 08:46 AM


Originally Posted by Cain (Post 10531881)
these ship direct from exotek:

http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/1162.htm

If you are a member its $5 cheaper


How do I get the $5 discount? Member of trick-parts. like just make an account?

Thanks

Wild Cherry 03-29-2012 08:59 AM

One of the first on this thread that got a Sc104x4 ...

Still racing and winning with......


No whine like a girl about not being able to win from me .


Its fast and with I can hand it to most if not all on this thread that says it can't compete....:D

Cain 03-29-2012 09:02 AM

yes. Basically there membership is $15 if I recall correctly. However, when you sign up, you get $15 worth of credit. So if you are planning to buy something anyway, the membership is *Free*. Get the membership first, then, login and it will show the lower price.

RossNZ 03-29-2012 09:04 AM


Originally Posted by Resqnu (Post 10531519)
Guys, I've been following this thread for a while and enjoyed the great info that's been provided. I really like this truck, but I'm having an issue with this truck at a local indoor damp clay track. As soon as I come out of a 90 degree turn and get straightened up for the long back straight. I grab the throttle and the truck is squirrelly down the 100ft straight away. Is this normal? I don't see everyone having this problem. I'm running a rx8, tekin 4.5 w/13 t pinion, shocks middle on top and putter on arms, yellow springs all the way around, 24mm ride height with body and ss JConcepts BarCodes on hazards. Everyone mostly runs slicks on ths track. Need help.

This is what mine does if the slipper is too tight, I run loose tracks tho.

vulcanbomber 03-29-2012 09:07 AM

Exotek
 
Does the Exotek Chassis work with the new FT Saddle pack battery mounts? Do they line up or will you have to drill? Has anyone confirmed it? I just got my new FT kit and want to get the Exotek but I don't want to drill it.

jhhack 03-29-2012 09:08 AM


Originally Posted by Cain (Post 10532100)
yes. Basically there membership is $15 if I recall correctly. However, when you sign up, you get $15 worth of credit. So if you are planning to buy something anyway, the membership is *Free*. Get the membership first, then, login and it will show the lower price.

thanks cain

CraigMBA 03-29-2012 09:15 AM


Originally Posted by Resqnu (Post 10531519)
I'm running a rx8, tekin 4.5 w/13 t pinion, shocks middle on top and putter on arms, yellow springs all the way around, 24mm ride height with body and ss JConcepts BarCodes on hazards. Everyone mostly runs slicks on ths track. Need help.

If I understand your post correctly, you are running Jconcepts treaded tires in green compound.

If the track is good enough a lot of guys are running slicks, you're going to be in agony compared to them if you're running treaded tires. But that's the easy part, the compound is going to be ultra critical, as is the condition/selection of the insert. Depending on where you run, the inserts will wear out/break down before the tire gives up. The guys I know who run at WCRC and OCRC tell me that the tires are only good for three race days once they go to slicks because the inserts start to break down and then they are junk.

So, IMO, this isn't necessarily a chassis problem. It might be, but you gotta get the tires right first.



Originally Posted by Oasis (Post 10530708)
I'm going to be running saddle packs and was wondering..the largest saddle packs I've seen (that have a high c rating) are 5300's..is this enough to make an 8 minute race? I know with my Losi 6000ma 65c is just enough, any less I'm not makin it to the end of the race..but it is stupid fast..:lol:

I ran 15 minutes straight at Autodromo Rancho Pollo with the 550 motor in it last Saturday after the race. The battery took 2500 mha when I recharged it. Run whatever you like!


Originally Posted by FRONTI3R (Post 10531982)
These are the wheel nuts I use:
4mm Aluminum Flanged Serrated Nuts (Blue) (4) [TRA1747R]

The wheel nuts don't need to be on tight when you use these. I've had them for a full year now without any issues what so ever.
http://c456141.r41.cf0.rackcdn.com/i...tra1747r_1.jpg

IMO those are the best ones.


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