5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
03-27-2012 | 09:15 AM
Check the trans cases. If you over tighten them, the screws can extend into the cases and drag on the pulleys. All 6 screws should have washers. I tighten, then back the screws out 1/8th of a turn. Usually does it, YRMV.
Read your post again. Check the belt tensioners too, that they are tucked into their pockets and again does not come into contact with the pulley.
There's really only one way the front pulley can be installed. The Clicker assembly shouldn't have an effect on that.
Read your post again. Check the belt tensioners too, that they are tucked into their pockets and again does not come into contact with the pulley.
There's really only one way the front pulley can be installed. The Clicker assembly shouldn't have an effect on that.
03-27-2012 | 09:22 AM
So I recently picked up a SC10 4X4 roller and am going to use it to mess around the house and maybe take it to the track every once and a while. I happen to have a Novak Super Sport brushless sytem with a SS4300 brushless motor laying around and want to use it. Will that brushless system work ok to just mess around with it? I am wanting to get a 550 motor to put in it but want to use it til then. Let me know what you think. Thanks
03-27-2012 | 09:41 AM
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Besides a broken belt pulley this is the first major broken part...bent front CVA. Not bad for 9 months of countless practices and races. Props for durability to AE.
Click image to view.
Click image to view.
03-27-2012 | 09:56 AM
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03-27-2012 | 10:05 AM
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You may be ok. I think the belt assembly causes the right hand side to weight a little more anyway. I put my MMP on the right side and still had to add weight to balance.
03-27-2012 | 10:08 AM
03-27-2012 | 10:10 AM
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Wow.
I am new to the RC hobby, and bought this kit, without realizing it is a kit, and I need to build the blasted thing.
So, thanks for this thread, and the links to youtube. I am learning to hate the manual. It is taking many things for granted, that a newb like me won't know.
I will get this done, somehow. Right now I am stalled because I noticed that the steering servo said on the package Ni-Cad only... so now I need to head back to my local shop and see what the deal is, and see about some diff fluid.... But that will probably depend on the answer to why they sold me the servo, when I purchased different batteries with the same purchase.
I am sure I will be back to ask questions, assuming I can't find it in this 1,000 page thread somewhere....
I am new to the RC hobby, and bought this kit, without realizing it is a kit, and I need to build the blasted thing.
So, thanks for this thread, and the links to youtube. I am learning to hate the manual. It is taking many things for granted, that a newb like me won't know.
I will get this done, somehow. Right now I am stalled because I noticed that the steering servo said on the package Ni-Cad only... so now I need to head back to my local shop and see what the deal is, and see about some diff fluid.... But that will probably depend on the answer to why they sold me the servo, when I purchased different batteries with the same purchase.
I am sure I will be back to ask questions, assuming I can't find it in this 1,000 page thread somewhere....
Also, i would do the shock assembly first, but fill with fluid last in the build. The reason for this is to let the locktite set on the screw that holds the piston on the shaft before adding the oil. This will prevent the piston from coming off and doing it first means less wait time for actually driving the truck!
Some say 24 hours before adding the oil, but I usually wait about 4 hours and it seems to work ok.
03-27-2012 | 10:16 AM
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Solid clicker
Someone that got a new truck recently said that he has the solid front clicker that did not adjust, or at least that's what I though he was saying. Has anyone heard of this? I've just been gluing mine down with CA.
03-27-2012 | 10:20 AM
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03-27-2012 | 10:53 AM
after I adjusted my endpoints it appears to have the same amount of possible throw.
I just picked up a Tekin Pro4 4000Kv motor. Been running the Tekin SCX 5.5, is there anything I should know about going from that motor to the Pro4? I am thinking they will be similar for gearing, is that correct?
I just picked up a Tekin Pro4 4000Kv motor. Been running the Tekin SCX 5.5, is there anything I should know about going from that motor to the Pro4? I am thinking they will be similar for gearing, is that correct?