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Keeping an eye out for weaknesses on this thread and not seeing much!
One guy lost a spring cup last race... would be a good spare to have handy, but won't DNF you. Also lost an axle pin on one last race when pitting someone's car. Those plastic hexes don't stay in place IMO. have some extra pins or glue those hexes or get some Tekno ones with set screw. Have also heard about a few people cooking the clicker, but I know at least one was an assembly error. Worst case just lock it down and keep on racing. I will lube mine if that helps with wear, but may require tightening it more to compensate. I have noticed the "A" airtronics servo horn is a sloppy fit compared to their 2wd kit one and others. This means there is no friction to hold it, just the screw, and is more likely to strip whether or not it comes loose. If you run those servos I'd have some extra horns on hand, and be on the lookout for a better servo horn. |
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
(Post 9148576)
I have noticed the "A" airtronics servo horn is a sloppy fit compared to their 2wd kit one and others. This means there is no friction to hold it, just the screw, and is more likely to strip whether or not it comes loose. If you run those servos I'd have some extra horns on hand, and be on the lookout for a better servo horn. |
Originally Posted by HarleyGuy
(Post 9148219)
Ran my SC10 4x4 yesterday for the first time... Had it set with the 19T clicker RX8 and the sc4x 550 5.5T with 5K in the front and rear diffs. The truck soaked up the whoops section great and jumped great, but I had a couple of issues that I was hoping someone here could help me with... First, the track was hard pack but very dusty so it was slick (I was running Super-soft Calibers) and in the turns the truck had a tendency to spinout... Tendency would kind of be an understatement, if I wasn't perfect it spun (is this a product of the clicker?)
Secondly, I aligned my servo (Savox SC-1256TG) during building, but as I was driving I noticed that my truck kept pulling to the right... I would adjust the trim and it would be good for a few minutes then start pulling again... In the end I had the trim set 100% to the right... Anyone had an issue like this??? If so what was the cause? Thanks for the help, Shane Did the servo horn strip? Did you use the correct one ( I believe savox use F ) |
Originally Posted by FrancoisTX
(Post 9147562)
Is there someone who,tried 19 T pulley at the front and 20T at the rear?
Just two posts above yours. Have any of you that run on loose tracks try the 19T overdrive clicker yet? I tried it for about two laps before I broke the front right knuckle, but from what I could tell it really helped exiting the corners on power and full throttle down the straight without the rear sliding out…. |
What Sway bars are guys using until AE have parts available?
Also looking for a Killer 4.5T setup, everything from ESC, Motor, to batteries. any help appreciated. |
Originally Posted by HarleyGuy
(Post 9148599)
Can you use a "regular" alloy servo horn??? I think this might be the issue I'm having as the plastic might be stripping do to excessive torque...
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finally ready to hit the track, I am very excited after reading all of the positive reviews here.
the stock AE body http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/...522_131719.jpg the Pro Line Flo-Tek body http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/...522_131227.jpg |
Hope this wasn't covered before, not going through 124 pages. :)
A racer showed up Sat (5/21) to get a few laps in on his SC10 4x4, about four laps in he got some track junk in on the spur, removed the cover, cleaned out the junk. Two laps into the 2nd run junk on the spur again. Track is FZRC in Sarasota, FL which is a black sand dirt surface (it's a FL dirt thing) so this is maybe a FL only problem. How the junk was getting in was from a motor mount adjustment slot. Looking from the motor side of the mount towards the front of the motor you can see the slot is open. It's easier to see when the gear cover is off. Fix, from the spur side a bit of tape/silicone/shoe goo after you have set the gear mesh. . |
Originally Posted by spu83
(Post 9148617)
My truck did the same. Going try to use heavier diff fluid up front. Also heavier sway bar too.
Did the servo horn strip? Did you use the correct one ( I believe savox use F ) I will be taking the front apart tonight (wow that's a pain... LOL) to check and see if the servo horn is stripped... I am sure I used the F horn, because I double checked it before I installed it. I just think that with high torque servos plastic simply won't hold up and it's likely that the horn is stripped... I am going to try an alloy horn and keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't hit anything (if it does I guess it's going to be Dremel time) |
have not started building yet want to get everything I need
my question is on battery size I do not have any lipos yet will be buying for the first time for the 4x4 what will fit looking for 5400-6000 what do you use thanks |
Originally Posted by jammnjeff
(Post 9148820)
have not started building yet want to get everything I need
my question is on battery size I do not have any lipos yet will be buying for the first time for the 4x4 what will fit looking for 5400-6000 what do you use thanks My Reedy packs fit :D as do my Checkpoint 5k/40C packs;) |
Originally Posted by McKleroy
(Post 9143173)
It is a problem when it hits flat on its nose and goes barrel rolling for ten yards. That is holding the throttle WFO the whole time in the air. Thinking about ditching the reciever box and esc tray to move the esc fuurther back.
I've traction rolled and nose-dived more in 2 days than in 3 months in the 2wd. I made some changes to shock oil and ride-height, hoping that will help. Going to try some Double Dees instead of Gridirons also. I hope we both get it figured out, this truck is awesome when I'm not screwing it up! |
Originally Posted by spu83
(Post 9148617)
My truck did the same. Going try to use heavier diff fluid up front. Also heavier sway bar too.
Did the servo horn strip? Did you use the correct one ( I believe savox use F )
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
(Post 9148655)
Not sure honestly, the kit horn has a weird offset to it.. and I know everything in there is a tight fit. I eyeballed the 2wd horn and it's a little shorter throw but looks like it might actually work with ballstud in the other direction.
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Originally Posted by HarleyGuy
(Post 9148768)
What sway bar are you running now?
I will be taking the front apart tonight (wow that's a pain... LOL) to check and see if the servo horn is stripped... I am sure I used the F horn, because I double checked it before I installed it. I just think that with high torque servos plastic simply won't hold up and it's likely that the horn is stripped... I am going to try an alloy horn and keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't hit anything (if it does I guess it's going to be Dremel time) |
Originally Posted by SaladFork
(Post 9148916)
I tried the Losi aluminum horn I had for chits and giggles, it works with the 965MG, alignment was perfect. But for the sake of the kit, I used what came with it. The first horn I installed felt like the right size, after a 30 second run the horn stripped, (user error on my part using the wrong one) got the right horn installed and it's taken my beatings fine.
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