Cristian




Scott ran his outdoors last, rebuilding the thing,had to pull the pins out with pliers...

The red dirt he ran on really stuck the pins up more than than normal in my experience...

Did clean the arms & pins, they slid right in smooth....


just swapping experience....

higher roll center ?
 

How much are you or would you reccomend stacking under the balls studs to correct this , front and rear.

Do you think it is an issue with the arms being too soft? Too much flex? With the Aluminum center chassis making it stiffer and weigh more could cause the other parts to flex more; past where they are designed to give in the overall design of the chassis. Making the feel of the truck seem more dead. I currently have not had to fly very far but I know if I jam on my brakes in the air with 65% brakes it will land almost on its lid. I am running my truck at 92oz ready to run vs Mantis 105oz

Maybe a carbon fiber overlay for the arms? I looked into doing this some time back but decided the chassis flex was to extreme at the time to benefit from the arms not flexing.

The SCTE arms are very soft, squishy almost. ;)

I see this with the rear arms inner pins too. I use wd40 on a pipe cleaner to clean the hole out. Wipe off the pin and it is better. the rear seems to get this more than the front due to dragging in the dirt. At time every couple of runs the rear gets "squeaky" and needs to be cleaned out.

DE Racing makes a new skid plate to help. I have also cut a peice of lexan and servo taped in on the rear wide enough to cover the rear pin pivots. Works for a day of racing and keeps the rear pins cleaner.

and on my Experience,

Although my truck does squeek a little after a week of running, it's still silky smooth after a hard day. I think depending on the dirt we're going to suffer less or more.

I have never had to pliar my pins out for sure, I'm thinking running the STRC AL on the rear will help a bit with keeping things going smoothly, the front should be protected by physics. No?

Are you using a special flow body?
Have you tried the rcshox for your sc10 4x4? Works wonders on the bumps...

Even with BRAND NEW arms and pins the pins wont fall through and the suspension still binds. Its free everywhere else though.

If you stack under the inside, the roll center would get lower. I think the truck needs to have different mounting positions on the F/R Hub carriers to achieve having the arms more "level". This would give the truck a more conventional arm angle comparable to all other off road vehicles out there. This would help with cornering and rough track handling as the truck would not need such a stiff suspension to keep it from having excessive body roll.

The arms are soft, but I don't think that's a huge issue. That does not really make the suspension bind. While the Losi's fatigue and warp over time as well, they are quite a bit thicker, therefore making them stiffer.

WC, one thing that has helped me is to use Kyosho flourine king pin oil. Its a bit pricey as it is like 11.00 for a tiny bottle, but a little goes a long way. The flourine oil dries pretty much upon contact with the surface and leaves a smooth, silky, almost powdery coating on the suspension. I apply it on all the hinge pins and ball ends. It keeps the truck from becoming squeaky for about 4 or 5 battery packs. This helps with the micro suspension vibrations and reduces suspension stiction.

I have not run the aluminum chassis, but I do run our chassis brace which makes the chassis almost as stiff. You still need to run a center brace to keep from flexing fore and aft excessively. However I don't think the stiffer chassis makes the arms work worse, quite contrarily, having the stiffer chassis made the truck smoother and made the suspension work more effectively. I think our case is that Gulf Coast Raceway is a Radical track that is an over-grown indoor clay, blue groove track. It is super fast, has a ton of grip and is super demanding on set-up and equipment.

One thing that I have noticed is that the AE Truck is much better when there is more grip. The losi is not as succeptible to changing track conditions. When the track is wet, it has grip, so the AE Truck does well. As it dries, the track gets really slick and the AE truck has a miserable time, but as grip comes up when the dry track starts groving, it starts to catch up again. This happens every time here at Gulf Coast.

awesome tip with the Kyosho F oil Cristian
TY:cool:

Marcus,


1 more thought on you not being able to bring the nose down with brake.

What setting and condition is your clicker in?

After installing your center dif in my truck I began to lose brake action and reverse over the next week or two. It turned out I had polished the clicker and it would no longer lock down. I think the extra force routed through the center dif was responsible. Not real sure.

So I CA glues the clicker and suddenly had great brakes again.

I can now in the air bring my truck almost front flip with brakes but cannot raise the front hardly at all with throtle.

I haven't had the opportunity to drive my truck in a couple months, and last time I ran, I was running I was trying something completely different, so I don't think it is a very good idea for mine to get posted.

when you stop trying to make this truck jump like a 1/8 buggy or other SC truck developed on a 1/8 buggy platform you will see that there are no issues regarding jumping.

it is more then logic that a losi scte will jump better on larger jumps and 1/8 tracks.
ok, so a losi wil jump better, the AE will turn better

an 1/10 SC truck based on a 1/8 platform has whole other handling then a 1/10 SC truck based on a 1/10 platform

It's not that we're trying to make the truck jump like a 1/8 buggy, at least I'm not.

However I do competitively race against SCTE's and need to do everything I can to be competitive against them on 1/8th sized tracks.

conngrats peter!
 

Nice going Peter... I have yet to getout there for anything more than just practice. Got some good tuning ,advice from John too. Its been fun!