I actually like the shocks, although they must be built a little differently. I fill em up, wait for no air bubbles. Put the shock bladder on, compress the shock fully, like 0 rebound, then put the cap on while the shock is fully compressed. No vapor lock, and the shock acts like there is 3/4 rebound.

Ran at the track for another 6 1/2 hours today with no breakage or failure:)
I ran with my homade swaybars, and it made a big difference in the corner speed I could carry witout traction rolling. I noticed the belt had stretched a little more, and am now running the suggested set up from the manual. I ran Gladiators on protrac rims after the track had been watered and they HOOK UP with some serious forward bite. And I also bought and tried some Proline Snipers on Slash rear offset for the heck since the Losi guy runs the wider offset tires, and they do make the truck more stable. The Snipers are glued to the track when its dry.

On another note, I experienced some heat problems with my motor (1410 16/62) due to the slipper being to loose, too much slippage created some heat, then glazed the pads over. Got it all taken care of now. I will be at the track tomorrow;)

Good news - thanks!

Isn't this the same as putting the cap on say half way (so the bladder isn't sealed to the shock body with the cap) and bleeding the shock through the bottom bleed hole in the cap? Put cap on, push piston up and then tighten the cap all the way..?

I'm positive nothing is binding, after reading another post I have a feeling a lot of my heat was coming from a loose slipper. When I pulled the slipper changing to the high torque pads the outer pad was glazed pretty bad. I'm use to 2wd stock so i don't think much about the slipper and the heat it can create.

Problem is going to the high torque pads I had the spring cranked down a good bit and still felt like it was slipping a good amount. Maybe pull the pads and hit them with some 600 grit?

All that traction and huge motors puts a massive amount of strain on the slipper I'm learning real quick.

I dont know? Areyou having problems with hydro lock doing this?

No, but I've only been into these shocks once to do the piston screws and dump the stock oil that's tooooo light for anything IMO. You need to leave the top bleed screw in while you do it though or you'll have a mess of problems. Stock shocks on my...cough...hyper 10SC are the same basic design with bladders. Is hydro lock the reason you're dong it the way you are?

I guess I've gotten lazy since the V2's came out but bleeding with bladders is kind of a pain to get the right rebound.:rolleyes: I like the rebound and the way they feel though...

With No springs or bars available yet I'm not sure I want to loose more spring rate running without any rebound yet.

Yup, I tried building them several ways, and this seemed to give me the best results. And now that I have about 30 packs throug it, it seems as though the shocks have gotten smoother, like the x-rings have broken in.

Tried to PM you, but anyways. You live in houston? If you need any help, because I live in houston, you should check out M&M Hobbies new track layout. Ill be their tomorrow for a good while and would be glad to try to help you out if I can. I think I have my truck pretty well setup now that I have swaybars on it.

What's wrong with landing nose down? Most top drivers fly 1/8 scale vehicles and any 4X4 vehicle nose down.

And if your hitting the down sides right it's not a problem;) on top of that it's a 4x4, you drive it with the throttle, on the ground and in the air..:tire:

just got home from my first race with the 4x4. and my first 4wd race ever. All i can say is I am so glad I bought this truck. in my first qualifier i placed 1st, 4 seconds ahead of second place. I was using the clicker set as the book says and the rear end was a little loose, it would rotate to much. so i tighteded the clicker some but not all the way. this helped so much, the rear end would rotate perfectly. the second qualifier I beat them by 1 lap. so I TQ'd (first time ever tqing). A main time, had a pile up on the start and I got the short end of it. was behind i 3rd I belive battled back and took the lead , started to strech it out when I made a mistake and got passed and now was in second. The other driver was the guy who created the Low center of gravity chassis for the slash , mark i belive his name is. anyway he and I battled and I made some stupid mistakes and gave him the win. I belive that the SC10 4X4 was the fastest truck out there and if I was a better driver it would have won the race. Took some hard crashes tonight also and NOTHIN broke. what a great truck.

From my experience, be careful how tight you run the clicker. I had mine tighter than 2mm but looser than 3mm...a tight click. I burned it up after a few heats. I didn't have any grease on it though.

Huh??? Manual says for full 4x4 run clicker @ 3mm and if you want the clicker to work as a clicker to run it @ 2mm..... you ran it between 2 and 3 and burnt it up??

Who is running a Tekin SC4X 5.5t .... Want to know what pinion you're using and the temp when running?