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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

CoyoteSlash 02-06-2012 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by MantisWorx (Post 10288846)
While going through numerous setup changes this weekend I came across something that works really well. I have a bunch of weight on the truck and it seemed like no matter what oil i ran in the front it kept bouncing up after a hard flat landing and go into a wheelie. I ended up back at 25 but moved the front shocks to the inside arm mount and the truck got much better especially through the washboards! so to answer your question 27.5 is fine, if you run into a scenario like mine move the shocks inward before you change oils! same with the rear.

I'm definitely not smacking into wheelies and whatnot. I'm installing your Pistons and our track is seeing it's better days, so I want to install these quick and see how they react over the life of the track as the 8th scalers blow it out.

I'll do 20/27.5 and adjust accordingly. Thanks for the Shock movement suggestion.

I added a half ounce on the front bumper and noticed some on power steering gain. But only a tiny bit. It was still GREATLY welcomed!

MantisWorx 02-06-2012 07:16 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10288864)
I'm definitely not smacking into wheelies and whatnot. I'm installing your Pistons and our track is seeing it's better days, so I want to install these quick and see how they react over the life of the track as the 8th scalers blow it out.

I'll do 20/27.5 and adjust accordingly. Thanks for the Shock movement suggestion.

I added a half ounce on the front bumper and noticed some on power steering gain. But only a tiny bit. It was still GREATLY welcomed!


same here, weight in the front is excellent, the front is so much more balanced. if your going to run 27 in the front you may want to go 22 in the rear to keep the rebounds close and about the same. 27/20 is probably more of a spread than you want.

CoyoteSlash 02-06-2012 07:20 PM


Originally Posted by MantisWorx (Post 10288895)
same here, weight in the front is excellent, the front is so much more balanced. if your going to run 27 in the front you may want to go 22 in the rear to keep the rebounds close and about the same. 27/20 is probably more of a spread than you want.

that's the response I was looking for. I thought so too.

with the weight i've got stuck to this thing, 22.5/27.5 isn't going to be bad to your strict suggestion of 20/25 right?

I can mix no problem. Thanks Marcus.



Edit: Oh shit. I'm out of 25 and 30. Gah!

Mizchief 02-06-2012 07:23 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10288864)
I'm definitely not smacking into wheelies and whatnot. I'm installing your Pistons and our track is seeing it's better days, so I want to install these quick and see how they react over the life of the track as the 8th scalers blow it out.

I'll do 20/27.5 and adjust accordingly. Thanks for the Shock movement suggestion.

I added a half ounce on the front bumper and noticed some on power steering gain. But only a tiny bit. It was still GREATLY welcomed!

What diff oils you running? 5k in both is working well for me right now.

SCTDan 02-06-2012 07:36 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10288927)
that's the response I was looking for. I thought so too. 22.5 it is.

with the weight i've got stuck to this thing, 22.5/27.5 isn't going to be bad to your strict suggestion of 20/25 right?

I can mix no problem. Thanks Marcus.

I've been running 22.5, 27.5 with yellows front and rear. It's been working very well for me. My front to rear bias is 54 rear with 46 front and steering is real good while keeping rear traction. Feels real balanced while driving. My total weight rtr is 6lbs 10oz. Added almost 4 oz up front to get the bias right after putting the tenshock 4600 in it. Geared 14/60 that thing is a monster! I can actully run almost full throttle through the sweeper on the inside line. Could never imagine doing that before the ball diff. Picked up some lead tape from Golfsmith to balance my wheels and thought I would try adding some extra weight to the wheels and see if I can get better in air correction. If it doesn't work I can just peel it off.

Farmer_John 02-06-2012 07:47 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10288749)
I think people aren't getting this at all...

No shit 1/10 aren't supposed to jump 1/8 tracks. But that's the track, and that's the class, and that's the race. The Losi 'can' and does. The AE 'can't' and it's KILLING their times and keep up process. Just because a 1/10th isn't supposed to doesn't mean you can walk up to the Losi drivers and go "hey... we can't make it, let's do it in a double/single so we can all play"
We need to find a way to hit the bigger jumps. Not even the size of that monsterous thing, just bigger ones.

I think you're over sensationalizing this thing and you may be within the spectrum of not understanding. I try to run a consistent line at a consistent pace and let the idiots fly. Because when they fly, they often end up on their lid/pipe/broken...and I drive around them. It doesn't always work, but I also realize that I'm in my 50s and I'm racing against those that are younger and on their way. Honestly, I'm probably on my way out.

If I can double/single and be competitive, I will. If I lose because of it, I can accept it. But I'll still finish higher than if I forced the truck to do something it's not going to do lap after lap.

CoyoteSlash 02-06-2012 07:55 PM


Originally Posted by Farmer_John (Post 10289116)
I think you're over sensationalizing this thing and you may be within the spectrum of not understanding. I try to run a consistent line at a consistent pace and let the idiots fly. Because when they fly, they often end up on their lid/pipe/broken...and I drive around them. It doesn't always work, but I also realize that I'm in my 50s and I'm racing against those that are younger and on their way. Honestly, I'm probably on my way out.

If I can double/single and be competitive, I will. If I lose because of it, I can accept it. But I'll still finish higher than if I forced the truck to do something it's not going to do lap after lap.

Really? :lol::lol:

Been reading at all? The Losi's were hitting it nearly every time and gaining two seconds each time on Marcus and the others.

Whichever part of you is "ok" losing cause your truck just can't do it is your problem choice and I respect said choice not to find a way, but ultimately that isn't even close to an argument no matter your experience or age, or my "understanding" in relation to our problem. He's competing to win. Not accept defeat and get whatever place doesn't have a Losi to fill that spot.

When did this hobby ever revolve around "accepting" the fallbacks of an RC you so badly want to compete with?

CoyoteSlash 02-06-2012 07:59 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 10288953)
What diff oils you running? 5k in both is working well for me right now.

5k rear
7k front
Centerdiff

I just whip the back end around the pipe and zip out of there, but my on power throttle is (and I mean this most literally) any % of throttle and the truck will slide Straight forward as if I truly don't even have the wheels turned. I must reduce the throttle to 0%, whip the rear around and goose it. It's how i've learned to drive and I do drive fast laps, enough to have little competition. But it feels like i'm driving to solve the problem instead of tuning to.

Or I should shut up and drive it cause it's working. =P Just afraid of a new track and hitting a brick wall cause my gained style won't work there.

Vegatron75 02-06-2012 08:01 PM


Originally Posted by symmetricon (Post 10288625)
Our disscussion as of late is relevant for those of us who have to contend with a 1/8 track with 36' triples. we are just looking for a way to get the most out of the truck. If you dont like it, too bad.

here is a quick question, has anyone noticed or any difference with midair pitch adjustments with the overdrive in the front?

I like to run the O front pulley at the little indoor track by my house. The only downside to the O pulley is the truck is much more sensitive to brake in the air. Could probably tune it out w/ the brake epa, though.

I've lawn darted it a few times w/ the O pulley and never w/ the regular pulley.

SkarTisu 02-06-2012 08:07 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10289175)
5k rear
7k front
Centerdiff

I just whip the back end around the pipe and zip out of there, but my on power throttle is (and I mean this most literally) any % of throttle and the truck will slide Straight forward as if I truly don't even have the wheels turned. I must reduce the throttle to 0%, whip the rear around and goose it. It's how i've learned to drive and I do drive fast laps, enough to have little competition. But it feels like i'm driving to solve the problem instead of tuning to.

Or I should shut up and drive it cause it's working. =P Just afraid of a new track and hitting a brick wall cause my gained style won't work there.

In my experience, heavier front diff fluid generates more on power steering.

CoyoteSlash 02-06-2012 08:09 PM


Originally Posted by SkarTisu (Post 10289216)
In my experience, heavier front diff fluid generates more on power steering.

Right. We were originally running 30k, as I was too.

But with the Center diff, 5/7 seems to be the standard. I could go to 10, but I'm not sure how that's going to react with the Center diff.

MarqueeRc 02-06-2012 08:22 PM

For those running the center diff. Do you think 3k/3k would work well on a low to med grip track?

Mizchief 02-06-2012 08:22 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 10289175)
5k rear
7k front
Centerdiff

I just whip the back end around the pipe and zip out of there, but my on power throttle is (and I mean this most literally) any % of throttle and the truck will slide Straight forward as if I truly don't even have the wheels turned. I must reduce the throttle to 0%, whip the rear around and goose it. It's how i've learned to drive and I do drive fast laps, enough to have little competition. But it feels like i'm driving to solve the problem instead of tuning to.

Or I should shut up and drive it cause it's working. =P Just afraid of a new track and hitting a brick wall cause my gained style won't work there.

I remember we had similar issues, try 5k up front. I went to yellow springs at the same time, but I think going lower made the biggest difference. I haven't tried it in any loose sweepers yet, but so far it feels much better to me.

I added more camber up front and that help the fronts dig a little better as well, if the 5k isn't enough for me, I may try going to a 3-3 block in the rear to help take out some of the push.

Mizchief 02-06-2012 08:24 PM


Originally Posted by MarqueeRc (Post 10289299)
For those running the center diff. Do you think 3k/3k would work well on a low to med grip track?

On high grip I think 3/3 would work well, but may be a little too much steering on low grip.

tozovr 02-06-2012 08:25 PM


Originally Posted by Vegatron75 (Post 10289187)
I like to run the O front pulley at the little indoor track by my house. The only downside to the O pulley is the truck is much more sensitive to brake in the air. Could probably tune it out w/ the brake epa, though.

I've lawn darted it a few times w/ the O pulley and never w/ the regular pulley.

I too run the O pulley...maybe that is why it comes down nicely.


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