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Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
(Post 10177405)
Theres a guy at my track with a losi and pro4 4600 (dont know his settings) but he can barley keep up with me down the straight and cant clear the big double on the back straight. I run a lrp 550 5.5 with 3 boost and 0 timing. Is this because my truck is lighter or he has it turned way down?
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Originally Posted by j_blaze14
(Post 10176450)
tenshock sc401 or 411, i want to keep up with the pro 4's on a budget, without melting spur gears.
they can run max 7 minutes before everything thermals out. motor got over 100 degree celcius and 2 brand new nanotech lipo's dead because the plug was melted. |
Originally Posted by IRM616
(Post 10177430)
I have an rx8 with pro 4000. Run on high bite track. Track is 6800sq ft. Not sure if you need some much info but what does timing do and boost? Thanks
Motor Timing can be adjusted in 2 ways with a sensored motor, or in one way if the motor is sensorless. The common way for to adjust timing for both motor types is in the speed control’s software. Users can adjust a value called Timing Advance to increase kV. With a sensored motor, timing can also be adjusted by physically turning the timing ring on the motor. Boost: Adjusts the percentage of the timing added, which is applied to the motor based on it‘s RPM. Hope this helps and make sense. |
Another Pro4 and MMP question
I just got my new pro4 wired up to the MMP and it is silky smooth and sounds great. But.....it only runs backwards. I swapped 2 of the 3 wires and it coggs and sounds really weird. I then swapped a different two wires and the same thing happened. Any suggestions? Thanks,
The sensor is hooked up and the MMP is in sensor motor mode. I just took a castle motor out and it ran forward. |
Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
(Post 10177449)
Timing:
Motor Timing can be adjusted in 2 ways with a sensored motor, or in one way if the motor is sensorless. The common way for to adjust timing for both motor types is in the speed control’s software. Users can adjust a value called Timing Advance to increase kV. With a sensored motor, timing can also be adjusted by physically turning the timing ring on the motor. Boost: Adjusts the percentage of the timing added, which is applied to the motor based on it‘s RPM. Hope this helps and make sense. Got it, I do have the hotwire and few ppl adviced to have it all turned down and seeing ppl here using it makes me want to look into those things. I get what the boost does just need to read up on timing and the performance of it. Thanks |
Originally Posted by IRM616
(Post 10177471)
Got it, I do have the hotwire and few ppl adviced to have it all turned down and seeing ppl here using it makes me want to look into those things. I get what the boost does just need to read up on timing and the performance of it. Thanks
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Originally Posted by rcjunky10
(Post 10173993)
Start with the nut flush to the end of the top shaft. Adjust from there. Remember that you want some slip otherwise you'll be going through idler gears like yesterday's undies!
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 10174032)
CEW , I use the heavy duty duty Ae slippers pads and have 4 m of the shaft showing.....;)
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Originally Posted by riverdog
(Post 10177459)
I just got my new pro4 wired up to the MMP and it is silky smooth and sounds great. But.....it only runs backwards. I swapped 2 of the 3 wires and it coggs and sounds really weird. I then swapped a different two wires and the same thing happened. Any suggestions? Thanks,
The sensor is hooked up and the MMP is in sensor motor mode. I just took a castle motor out and it ran forward. Good luck! |
Originally Posted by riverdog
(Post 10177459)
I just got my new pro4 wired up to the MMP and it is silky smooth and sounds great. But.....it only runs backwards. I swapped 2 of the 3 wires and it coggs and sounds really weird. I then swapped a different two wires and the same thing happened. Any suggestions? Thanks,
The sensor is hooked up and the MMP is in sensor motor mode. I just took a castle motor out and it ran forward. |
Originally Posted by CEW
(Post 10177479)
Thank you both for the info. I did some testing (in the house today) and found it was slipping quite a bit with .5mm showing. I find it a little difficult to tell exactly how much slip I'm getting. I tightened it down so that 2mm is showing It still seems to slip a little (on carpet), but far less. I look forward to trying it out at the track on Wednesday.
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Originally Posted by AzFittin
(Post 10177485)
Had the same problem on mine, process of elimination got it working but here is a short cut. Red from MMP to A on Motor, White to B and Black to C. That should get you spinning the right direction with no Cogging.
Good luck! Coyote- what is this about reversing the rotation with the castle link? Not the field link but the usb? I have not hooked the mmp up to the computer yet. Any tips. I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks, |
Originally Posted by riverdog
(Post 10177512)
Thanks for the reply, I am hooked up in that order.
Coyote- what is this about reversing the rotation with the castle link? Not the field link but the usb? I have not hooked the mmp up to the computer yet. Any tips. I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks, |
Originally Posted by riverdog
(Post 10177512)
Thanks for the reply, I am hooked up in that order.
Coyote- what is this about reversing the rotation with the castle link? Not the field link but the usb? I have not hooked the mmp up to the computer yet. Any tips. I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks, |
My RTR 4x4 3500 Reedy motor is getting up to 165F 74C. Is that ok/normal to run it at those temps? Its all standard from the box.
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 10176914)
How about: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ferential-Lube ?
Someone a few pages back was saying it was "tough as gorilla snot" |
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