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Old 10-06-2011, 09:30 AM
  #76  
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Ok, I'm going to extend the stock chassis 2 inches in the front, just bought a new blade for my chop saw, right where the chassis widens. There is room in the rear for saddle packs so I just need to find a 94-100mm drive shaft for the front. The stock(short) chassis wb is almost 9 inches so adding 2 will put it just under 11. I have a set of thin hexes for the rear which put the width at about 10 3/16 using Losi 22 wheels.

Mantisworx, do you have any pics of your modded chassis?
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Old 10-07-2011, 05:15 AM
  #77  
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Stock CRT chassis does not cut as easily as other 1/8 aluminum I've cut.... In fact i can't cut it at all!!! I'm using a 180 tooth carbide blade that cuts through most non-ferrous Metals like nothing. Any ideas on what I can use to cut the chassis? If mike at rc monster would make more chassis' this would be a lot easier

Last edited by coaltrain; 10-07-2011 at 05:16 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:53 AM
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Have anyone new information of this HN 1/10 EP buggy project?
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:50 AM
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I started working on my conversion. My plan is to cut the chassis and use the 82.5mm dogbones for center shafts. My first step was to flip the center diff locating the motor forward. The two holes for the center diff forward become the rear mount holes. I cut the slot for the spur gear and with two holes I have the center diff mounted. The Servo mount is still good and enough space for a 540 motor.

I am planning to use a Novak system in my car. I have a 7.5t Ballistic 540 motor and Havoc Pro SC X-Drive for power.

Issues:
Wheels: I purchase a set of B44 wheels. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong ones. The older front wheels are not 12mm and rears are for the old pin style. Plus I think the dish is not the optimal for this chassis. I need a negative offset wheel. Does anyone know what wheel I should use? I am thinking that a Kyosho wheel should work. I will research today.

Body: I purchased a B44.1 body thinking that I could use the 109mm center dogbone in the rear and see how close I can get to the 292mm wheel base spec. Unfortunately swapping out the front dogbone from 109mm to 82.5mm seems to result in 24mm of wheelbase reduction (from 324mm to 300mm) so I am not to spec. Going to two 82.5mm shafts front and rear reduces the wheelbase an estimated 52mm (from 324 to 272mm) so the B44.1 body will not work well. I need to get an older B44 body now. I think the shorter wheelbase will look a little better anyway. I am trying to get this modification to ROAR specs to avoid any questions when I race it.


Width: People have said that coverting this chassis to 4WD Buggy will not meet ROAR specs. I can see that the front is narrower than the rear by a few mms. I bet I can get pretty close with the right wheels.

I'll post some pics tonight.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:16 AM
  #80  
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I don't have a scrt10 anymore but tried Team C wheels(bit wider than RB5/B4) and it was wide,maybe with narrow wheels hexes could be usable.Don't know negative offset wheels,but tamiya 501x(or whatever the 4wd is called) are 12mm hex B44 offset AFAIK.GL
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:31 AM
  #81  
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My research shows that the Kyosho 56mm Flush front and rear wheels might work fine. AKA's new Hexlite wheels look very good as well. Very little offset and 12mm front and rear. I plan to get some of these to get started.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:01 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth
I don't have a scrt10 anymore but tried Team C wheels(bit wider than RB5/B4) and it was wide,maybe with narrow wheels hexes could be usable.Don't know negative offset wheels,but tamiya 501x(or whatever the 4wd is called) are 12mm hex B44 offset AFAIK.GL
Obrigado 30tooth. I was also looking at narrow hexes if I am too wide.

Eu falo português se você prefira comunicar no futuro.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:27 PM
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Por mim pode falar inglês meu irmão,estou até fazendo por melhorar o meu inglês falado e escrito
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:00 AM
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Status on my conversion of the SCRT10 to 4wd Buggy. I have the rear diff and center diff in place now and need to cut the shape of the chassis to finalize the chassis base settings. So far it looks very good much like the previous conversions. I cut a JConcepts Finnisher B44.2 body to fit so I can place the batteries, ESC and everything in the right places. The SCRT10 chassis is designed for a Nitro engine as well so one of my battery mounts bolts into the rear motor mount. I need to create a rear body post since the stock CRT.5 mount is way too high.

I am very happy with the layout. The front a rear center shafts are 82.5mm dogbones giving me roughly a 272mm wheelbase. I am able to mount the saddle packs nicely rear of the center diff. There is space for the huge Havoc Pro SC that I plan to use for my 7.5t Ballistic motor. I will have to mount the receiver on top of the servo which has plenty of space. Balance should be good but I will have to check that later.

Since my tools are not what I would classify as machinist grade it is a little rough. If this works out well I may just pop the $150 for SNR to cut a custom chassis for this beauty. I wish I could find a 88mm dogbone that fits this chassis. I would prefer to maximize the wheelbase but the ratio of wheelbase to track width is very close to 8th scale buggy so it should perform well.

I'll post pics once I get the batteries mounted.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:29 AM
  #85  
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Quick update: It's been a little slow going but I almost have the chassis plate cut to shape. Looks like it will serve me well. Again I will post some photos as soon as I can.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:46 AM
  #86  
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Latest update:

I finished cutting the chassis and mounting the batteries. I decided to assemble the car a little for photos. I wanted to mount the ESC between the servo and right side batterey but I positioned the battery too far forward to have space for the bulky Novak ESC that I am using. I will have space for a transponder now.

I plan to use the original kit ESC mount in the front ubside down to mount the ESC under the cockpit of the body. A little more Dremel work and it will be mounted along with the Ballistic 7.5t motor.

The tires and wheels in the photos are dished a little more than acceptable. They are the only ones I have for now to test the chassis. The car is 10mm to wide at around 260mm. I plan to get thinner wheel hex's and AKA HEXlite wheels to reduce the track width. Wheelbase is 272mm.



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Old 01-24-2013, 04:08 AM
  #87  
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Looks awesome!
How about Kyosho DBX center dogbones if you want a longer wheelbase?Don't know pin size but should be very close to HN.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nt-Swing-Shaft
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:16 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth
Looks awesome!
How about Kyosho DBX center dogbones if you want a longer wheelbase?Don't know pin size but should be very close to HN.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nt-Swing-Shaft
I estimate that the DBX dogbone would be about a 290mm wheelbase. I wish I would have caught that option before I cut the chassis. I was looking at all kinds of options to maximize the wheelbase. Thanks for the info. I may have the opportunity to get one of those shafts from a friend. I am Ok with the 272mm wheelbase to start. It is like the B44 more or less but a longer wheelbase would be better for sure.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:11 AM
  #89  
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I finally completed the build. It runs pretty good in the garage so far. Mine is weighing in at 1930gms with IFMAR minimum at 1630gms so I am 300gms over as I sit. The chassis seems well balanced right now. I recieved contact from Steve at SNR and he is willing to make a custom graphite/carbon chassis for me so I may just get the DBX center shaft and talk to steve to design up a new chassis. All that is left is paint, new tires and wheels with reduced dish to try and make the 250mm width specs, and some tuning. Here are the final photos:







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Old 01-27-2013, 08:11 AM
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Great job sir!
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