Tekin Rx8 & T8 2650kv kit on 6s OR MMM combo 2650kv on 6s ?????
02-01-2011, 06:06 PM
#61
You're going to spend quite a bit of time getting a custom chassis made, even if you do fine someone with a mill available to them. People who have "toys" like that usually either have them making money or don't have much time to use them at all...
I would say you have 3 options,----use the 1515,----go back to the stock chassis and mod it the way I was saying before,----or use a mount that puts the motor directly above the drive line.
Chances are good you could find a local machine shop that could drill new holes in a chassis to move the mount back if you swapped the center shafts, but this only works with a single battery tray. Which I think is a good way to go if you wanted a perfectly balanced buggy, the drawback is that you have to match the weight of the lipo's to the motor within an acceptable margin and there's a little math involved in finding out just how much lipo weight is required.
The 1515 and saddle pack setup is slick, the 1515 weighs less than a 1524 so it won't throw off the balance as much, and you have the option of running a 3S behind the motor and a 5S opposite the motor to help level it out. The ESC mount would put the XL in a cool spot and you wouldn't have to goof with servo mounting.
You could also go off the reservation with a RCM universal motor mount http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmcdmm, put the motor above the center diff hanging off the back over the batteries. Locate the XL opposite the steering servo where the motor is now, and run any length motor you want. The drawback of this setup is having weight up high, it will make the chassis roll a bit more, but I never flipped my hyper 7 running this setup.
I would say you have 3 options,----use the 1515,----go back to the stock chassis and mod it the way I was saying before,----or use a mount that puts the motor directly above the drive line.
Chances are good you could find a local machine shop that could drill new holes in a chassis to move the mount back if you swapped the center shafts, but this only works with a single battery tray. Which I think is a good way to go if you wanted a perfectly balanced buggy, the drawback is that you have to match the weight of the lipo's to the motor within an acceptable margin and there's a little math involved in finding out just how much lipo weight is required.
The 1515 and saddle pack setup is slick, the 1515 weighs less than a 1524 so it won't throw off the balance as much, and you have the option of running a 3S behind the motor and a 5S opposite the motor to help level it out. The ESC mount would put the XL in a cool spot and you wouldn't have to goof with servo mounting.
You could also go off the reservation with a RCM universal motor mount http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmcdmm, put the motor above the center diff hanging off the back over the batteries. Locate the XL opposite the steering servo where the motor is now, and run any length motor you want. The drawback of this setup is having weight up high, it will make the chassis roll a bit more, but I never flipped my hyper 7 running this setup.
02-01-2011, 06:15 PM
#62
Shawn do you have the HHH chassis already? or just the stock one?
02-01-2011, 06:22 PM
#63
You hit pothole like that at those speeds your gonna be picking the car up in pieces, enough said. Sounds like a slalom to me lol
02-01-2011, 06:23 PM
#64
doc, finally.....finally
02-01-2011, 06:28 PM
#65
??? finally ???
02-01-2011, 07:06 PM
#66
You're going to spend quite a bit of time getting a custom chassis made, even if you do fine someone with a mill available to them. People who have "toys" like that usually either have them making money or don't have much time to use them at all...
I would say you have 3 options,----use the 1515,----go back to the stock chassis and mod it the way I was saying before,----or use a mount that puts the motor directly above the drive line.
Chances are good you could find a local machine shop that could drill new holes in a chassis to move the mount back if you swapped the center shafts, but this only works with a single battery tray. Which I think is a good way to go if you wanted a perfectly balanced buggy, the drawback is that you have to match the weight of the lipo's to the motor within an acceptable margin and there's a little math involved in finding out just how much lipo weight is required.
The 1515 and saddle pack setup is slick, the 1515 weighs less than a 1524 so it won't throw off the balance as much, and you have the option of running a 3S behind the motor and a 5S opposite the motor to help level it out. The ESC mount would put the XL in a cool spot and you wouldn't have to goof with servo mounting.
You could also go off the reservation with a RCM universal motor mount http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmcdmm, put the motor above the center diff hanging off the back over the batteries. Locate the XL opposite the steering servo where the motor is now, and run any length motor you want. The drawback of this setup is having weight up high, it will make the chassis roll a bit more, but I never flipped my hyper 7 running this setup.
I would say you have 3 options,----use the 1515,----go back to the stock chassis and mod it the way I was saying before,----or use a mount that puts the motor directly above the drive line.
Chances are good you could find a local machine shop that could drill new holes in a chassis to move the mount back if you swapped the center shafts, but this only works with a single battery tray. Which I think is a good way to go if you wanted a perfectly balanced buggy, the drawback is that you have to match the weight of the lipo's to the motor within an acceptable margin and there's a little math involved in finding out just how much lipo weight is required.
The 1515 and saddle pack setup is slick, the 1515 weighs less than a 1524 so it won't throw off the balance as much, and you have the option of running a 3S behind the motor and a 5S opposite the motor to help level it out. The ESC mount would put the XL in a cool spot and you wouldn't have to goof with servo mounting.
You could also go off the reservation with a RCM universal motor mount http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmcdmm, put the motor above the center diff hanging off the back over the batteries. Locate the XL opposite the steering servo where the motor is now, and run any length motor you want. The drawback of this setup is having weight up high, it will make the chassis roll a bit more, but I never flipped my hyper 7 running this setup.
i have everything stock , VE8 in kit form , and that it !
so basicaly imma run the stock HHH Chassis
slap the 1515 in its stock place , so i would still have place for the twin 140mm 4s lipos , put the mamba xl between the 2 lipos on the HHH plastic plate that runs over the rear centre drive shaft
and if i want less spur gearings imma buy the rc8 complet diff + 43t spur mod1 gear with a decent pinion gear and i should be good to start testing !
so resume of what i need
charger
power supply for the charger
lipos
servo
motor
esc
hhh chassis
tires
decent looking wheels
hum im i missing something ?
02-01-2011, 07:11 PM
#67
but then again im not ready to buy anything
#1 not enough funds
#2 i really need to know what i need
#3 need to know whats more worth it , buy it from the net or from my local hobby shop ? exemple , my ve8 was cheaper from my local hobby shop then the net , so i have to sort that out
#4 buy that time i should have all the funds i need to buy everything one shot !
#1 not enough funds
#2 i really need to know what i need
#3 need to know whats more worth it , buy it from the net or from my local hobby shop ? exemple , my ve8 was cheaper from my local hobby shop then the net , so i have to sort that out
#4 buy that time i should have all the funds i need to buy everything one shot !
02-01-2011, 07:16 PM
#68
Connectors, heat shrink tubing, tools, industrial velcro, blue loctite, zip ties, solder and a pen torch, receiver batteries, diff and shock oil (dunno what came in the kit), extra body clips, street tires, dirt tires, an old toothbrush, compressed or "canned" air, paint, some form of portable storage, and a video camera 
02-01-2011, 07:23 PM
#69
My M.O. is allways to decide what EXACTLY I want, make list's with part numbers and suppliers. Trim that down to where I'm buying what, and the exact cost after shipping and tax if it applies.
I usually divide these lists into purchase groups. For instance I have an "allowance" I've agreed to with the wife of $400 a pay period ($800 a month) that I dole out into my various hobbies. Monday I bought 5 lipo batt's, and an Ofna hyper 10SC. This next pay period I'm buying some 17mm shocks (used from a member on RCM), the MMP/2400KV combo for the 10SC, misc bits and pieces for my 8T-e, and a servo...
I usually divide these lists into purchase groups. For instance I have an "allowance" I've agreed to with the wife of $400 a pay period ($800 a month) that I dole out into my various hobbies. Monday I bought 5 lipo batt's, and an Ofna hyper 10SC. This next pay period I'm buying some 17mm shocks (used from a member on RCM), the MMP/2400KV combo for the 10SC, misc bits and pieces for my 8T-e, and a servo...
02-01-2011, 07:26 PM
#70
Connectors, heat shrink tubing, tools, industrial velcro, blue loctite, zip ties, solder and a pen torch, receiver batteries, diff and shock oil (dunno what came in the kit), extra body clips, street tires, dirt tires, an old toothbrush, compressed or "canned" air, paint, some form of portable storage, and a video camera
receiver batteries ? its not going to be powered but the mamba xl using the bec ?
as for the soldering gun i have a old school one, i do a lot of soldering , sound system installation ect ect i use it often , is there like a ultimate soldering pen out there ? budget 200-300$
btw fuck ... theres a lot of shit to buy ! loll atleast a other easy 1500$ in total in my quick guess
hhh chassis 130$ +25$ shipping = 160$
mamba xl 350$
1515 motor 250$
batts buying 4 to 8 of them 300$ +-
charger + power supply 300$
tires 55$
wheels 50$
Servo 100$
ect ect ect !! damn its expencive but its going to save me a lot of money on my real scale car because im not going to be driving it as much so ill save money on gaz , wile being in a parking lot , drag strip , anywhere just having fun ! so its going to pay off !
02-01-2011, 07:31 PM
#71
My M.O. is allways to decide what EXACTLY I want, make list's with part numbers and suppliers. Trim that down to where I'm buying what, and the exact cost after shipping and tax if it applies.
I usually divide these lists into purchase groups. For instance I have an "allowance" I've agreed to with the wife of $400 a pay period ($800 a month) that I dole out into my various hobbies. Monday I bought 5 lipo batt's, and an Ofna hyper 10SC. This next pay period I'm buying some 17mm shocks (used from a member on RCM), the MMP/2400KV combo for the 10SC, misc bits and pieces for my 8T-e, and a servo...
I usually divide these lists into purchase groups. For instance I have an "allowance" I've agreed to with the wife of $400 a pay period ($800 a month) that I dole out into my various hobbies. Monday I bought 5 lipo batt's, and an Ofna hyper 10SC. This next pay period I'm buying some 17mm shocks (used from a member on RCM), the MMP/2400KV combo for the 10SC, misc bits and pieces for my 8T-e, and a servo...
but im gonna do the same exact list as you discribed , its the best to know how much ur going to need + shopping for the cheapest quest is always normal ! even if i would be rich !
02-01-2011, 07:47 PM
#72
Yah 
I meant transmitter batteries
Soldering guns/irons won't solder the connectors to the 8 gauge wires on the XL, here's a link to a 2 part video I made for another member on RCM that shows a quick explenation of series vs. parallel and a how-to on soldering on the 6.5mm connectors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9WL05jYa2A
Part 2:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnVWNfazfds
and the first run of the Hyper 7 with the XL, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rixf1DXCo28
I meant transmitter batteries Soldering guns/irons won't solder the connectors to the 8 gauge wires on the XL, here's a link to a 2 part video I made for another member on RCM that shows a quick explenation of series vs. parallel and a how-to on soldering on the 6.5mm connectors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9WL05jYa2A
Part 2:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnVWNfazfds
and the first run of the Hyper 7 with the XL, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rixf1DXCo28
02-01-2011, 08:08 PM
#73
nice videos !
but i still need a nice welding pen !
i was looking at the 50w butane pen from Snap-On looks preaty good !
but i still need a nice welding pen !
i was looking at the 50w butane pen from Snap-On looks preaty good !
02-01-2011, 08:17 PM
#74
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
check this out , this should be good for 8 gauge wire
check this out , this should be good for 8 gauge wire
02-01-2011, 08:17 PM
#75
Weller is untouchable for soldering tools, you can go from mild to insane with their stuff. I use a 15 watt iron (pen i think your calling it), and a dual heat soldering gun. The iron is good up to about 18 gauge wire, and the gun is good up to about 10 gauge, from there your into combution heat range...
I own plenty of snapon tools, but my rule of thumb is buy the tool inexpensive, like a cheap pen torch from ace hardware, if you break it THEN buy an expensive one.
I own plenty of snapon tools, but my rule of thumb is buy the tool inexpensive, like a cheap pen torch from ace hardware, if you break it THEN buy an expensive one.