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Tekin Rx8 & T8 2650kv kit on 6s OR MMM combo 2650kv on 6s ?????

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Old 01-31-2011, 08:11 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by The Overclocker
nice ! damn looks like the XL does it all !?!? thats preaty sick !! looks like imma need you're help BIG TIME for programming all that lolll

but all this lets me think ... if Harley Agrees on doing a longer chassis then im slapping a 1524 or even stronger 1527 ... loll but if he says no ... back to the small 1515 ...

pm you my cars sound system
Dude, you shouldn't sweat going back to the 1515 if you have to. You can still push the better part of 5hp with that motor and surpass your 100mph goal. Seriously, after you have the system up and running your gonna find out that you have way more car than it's possible to handle without scary moments out of control. Half the video's Ive seen of Nic Case's cars end up with them going for altitude vs. speed this hobby can be a buzz kill when you trash 60% of your hard work and money in a split second (been there and done that).

The only reason why I went with a 1518 over the 1515 was to keep the temps a little better in check. I admit I considered a 1520, but I didn't find a wind I was happy with and it wouldn't have fit my layout anyway...

Most of my ambition for this car over the next few months as the snow melts is to tone it down and make it something I can drive without looking like an idiot when it spins the tires, rips a hole in one, and goes flying off coarse like an early V2 rocket. I want to be able to put a small pinion in it, load a saved file into the XL, and do some racing on a legit dirt track. Then for kicks throw a huge pinion in, load another file, slam the suspension and rip asphalt at 80+mph. Break nothing in the process and take the car home only needing the lipo's charged.

But alas I'm getting old and gray, and have tamed my wild ways
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by DrKnow65
Dude, you shouldn't sweat going back to the 1515 if you have to. You can still push the better part of 5hp with that motor and surpass your 100mph goal. Seriously, after you have the system up and running your gonna find out that you have way more car than it's possible to handle without scary moments out of control. Half the video's Ive seen of Nic Case's cars end up with them going for altitude vs. speed this hobby can be a buzz kill when you trash 60% of your hard work and money in a split second (been there and done that).

The only reason why I went with a 1518 over the 1515 was to keep the temps a little better in check. I admit I considered a 1520, but I didn't find a wind I was happy with and it wouldn't have fit my layout anyway...

Most of my ambition for this car over the next few months as the snow melts is to tone it down and make it something I can drive without looking like an idiot when it spins the tires, rips a hole in one, and goes flying off coarse like an early V2 rocket. I want to be able to put a small pinion in it, load a saved file into the XL, and do some racing on a legit dirt track. Then for kicks throw a huge pinion in, load another file, slam the suspension and rip asphalt at 80+mph. Break nothing in the process and take the car home only needing the lipo's charged.

But alas I'm getting old and gray, and have tamed my wild ways
yeah youre totaly right ! especialy with the simplicity of flash the esc with a high speed setup , then re flash it for a bashing setup omg thats just simple and sick !
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:59 PM
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other then that Jeff what do u think i should look into ?? cuz the buggy is still in form of a kit so there is nothing on it !

still need a servo

tires

charger

i guess fatter suspension to carry the weight ?

hum am i forgeting some ? i already bookmarked the bat u posted so other then that ?
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Old 01-31-2011, 10:13 PM
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Yah, you'll have a good long list before it's all said and done :-)

I'll put together a wish list of stuff I'm looking to get over the next few months and post it up as alot of my accessory RC stuff is getting aged. Servos, shocks, tools, charger and power supply, parts bins, dremel stuff, you name it I've probably got it on a list already :-)
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:20 AM
  #50  
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Thought you would like this, post #139, going to shamelessly steal this idea for myself. Only I'm going to put two of those supplies in series for 24v at 47amps, so I can use a 3010b iCharger to charge my packs as an 8S unit at their charging C limit.

Charging station case http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...151#post396151

And iCharger http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=11597

The iCharger can be found stateside, just can't remember the store name off the top of my head this morning...

Also I wanted to point you towards the Turnigy "nano-tech" line of batteries, I'm only interested in the 45/90C versions. You can buy them now from Japan, but I'm holding out for them to show up in the USA warehouse. Silicone nanotubes will be the gold standard of lipo's in a few years, the technology will end up increasing capacity and C rating by multiples, then full electric cars will really be viable.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...8&LiPoConfig=4

Edit: here's the usa supplier http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_pa...products_id=45
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:49 AM
  #51  
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Guess I'll be throwing all the bit's and pieces up in a random sort of way
Here's the Savox servo I'm wanting for uprading the JR steering servo's in my 1/8th stuff. I have the 1258 (standard voltage) version of this one and I think it performs awesome. The high voltage version listed can be ran at 7v, and the XL internal 5 amp BEC van be set between 5v and 7v. Impressive numbers 361oz.in torque and 0.11sec
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...o-High-Voltage
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:18 AM
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this thread is exactly perfect ...all my questions answered x10 ,
this is the type of car i want to build .....
i didnt know there was anyihing better than my mamba monster esc ...the lx?
never heard of it .....
i would love to build a drag car using a 8th scale 4wd buggy ...
i thought i did ....i have a mp777 with the mmm2200kv system the castle conversion ....with two turnigy 3s nano tek ......i love my car , but i knwe there was more ..........
im sort of afraid of using my castle link ...i was told to use it to turn down the torque a little ..i wont blow the tires off and not loose rpm's.....
any way ..thanks for all the info,
dion
sa. tx.
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:37 AM
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Dionysus, dont be afraid of the castle link! You can do some intense tuning with it. Things like current limiting, punch control, anti lock brakes, motor timing, throttle and brake curves, neutral dead band, setting the BEC voltage...

Your realy missing out if you dont get in there and try playing with these functions.

The XL has all of this plus it will do 8S lipo and it has data logging. It will record the amps, volts, rpm, temp, throttle input, motor output, ripple current, mah used, and allow you to evaluate your setup in a light that a temp gun just can't do.

Wanna know if those lipo's are holding up to your setup? Check the voltage drop at max output... Ect
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by DrKnow65
Dionysus, dont be afraid of the castle link! You can do some intense tuning with it. Things like current limiting, punch control, anti lock brakes, motor timing, throttle and brake curves, neutral dead band, setting the BEC voltage...

Your realy missing out if you dont get in there and try playing with these functions.

The XL has all of this plus it will do 8S lipo and it has data logging. It will record the amps, volts, rpm, temp, throttle input, motor output, ripple current, mah used, and allow you to evaluate your setup in a light that a temp gun just can't do.

Wanna know if those lipo's are holding up to your setup? Check the voltage drop at max output... Ect
thanks....ill plug the link in later today ......
i really like the lipos , i dont beat on them , use my commonsense balancer to see how they are balanced .....after like ten speed runs charge and balance evrytime ......allwayse close to 420 off by a degree or two .
i have the stock center diff and i think i have a 13 or 14 tooth pinion ....nothings hot only warm to the touch except the tires they get hot ...lol
i juse adjusted the set screws in my front arms to keep the front end on the ground .....fronts want to baloon and explode off the rims ....possibly use 125,000 in the center dif .....
this is the most fun rc ive ever owned .
yes it is fun destroying tires ....i have used ones for that purpose.
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:02 AM
  #55  
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You need to use a set of the ofna belted onroad tires, they don't balloon and not ballooning makes the car WAY more sane :-)

You can "belt" tires yourself (google search), but I've never been able to master doing it myself :-(

There's the GRP brand of belted tires people swear by that are supposed to be more grippy than the ofna's, but I've only found them on eBay and haven't had a set yet myself...
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DrKnow65
You need to use a set of the ofna belted onroad tires, they don't balloon and not ballooning makes the car WAY more sane :-)

You can "belt" tires yourself (google search), but I've never been able to master doing it myself :-(

There's the GRP brand of belted tires people swear by that are supposed to be more grippy than the ofna's, but I've only found them on eBay and haven't had a set yet myself...
nah loll im not going to start doing diy belted tires lolll i had trouble last time just properly gluing my rs4 tires on the rims having the proper glue perhaps would of helped

thanks for the heads up on the grp belted tire but imma stick with the ofna for 1 reason ... the premounted rim looks sooooo ugly loll

for the charger ... hum for the same price i can buy 4 x ---> http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

witch will cost about the same as one of the charger u posted what do u think ?

main raison , i can run 120v / 12v , so i could have some at home + some with be in my car as i told u imma build a nice looking rack on top of my subs + where ever im at i could play with the buggy + charge it on the go !

give me ur 2 cents

btw nice servo
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:17 PM
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The problem with AC/DC chargers it the wattage of their power supplies. At 50 watts max, that charger will put (50watts / 14.8v) 3.3 amps into your pack. That means a 3300mah 4S lipo will take about an hour and fifteen minutes to rapid charge and up to an hour and 45 minutes if it needs balanced.

The charger I listed will do 1000 watts or (1000watts / 29.6v) 33.7 amps at 8S. That means you can charge both packs in series at the max C rating, for the turnigys thats usually 5C or for a 3300mah pack it's 19.8 amps. That means your charging the 3300's in about 15 minutes and 20 with balancing.

The other benifit is that it has a higher shunt voltage (how it compensates for voltage when balancing) up from 300mv to 500mv, so chances are good it will balance in the same time it takes to do a rapid charge. You could potentially have no wait time with this charger and 2 sets of packs, run one set while the other is charging, when the packs in the car are dead, the packs on the charger are ready to go (if the packs are over 100f after the run you'll need to let them cool before charging, but good batts should run cool).

Providing 12vdc from 120vac was what that thread was about. Building a high amp power supply for under $40.

Again we're talking opinion and it's an optional kind of thing.
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Old 02-01-2011, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DrKnow65
The problem with AC/DC chargers it the wattage of their power supplies. At 50 watts max, that charger will put (50watts / 14.8v) 3.3 amps into your pack. That means a 3300mah 4S lipo will take about an hour and fifteen minutes to rapid charge and up to an hour and 45 minutes if it needs balanced.

The charger I listed will do 1000 watts or (1000watts / 29.6v) 33.7 amps at 8S. That means you can charge both packs in series at the max C rating, for the turnigys thats usually 5C or for a 3300mah pack it's 19.8 amps. That means your charging the 3300's in about 15 minutes and 20 with balancing.

The other benifit is that it has a higher shunt voltage (how it compensates for voltage when balancing) up from 300mv to 500mv, so chances are good it will balance in the same time it takes to do a rapid charge. You could potentially have no wait time with this charger and 2 sets of packs, run one set while the other is charging, when the packs in the car are dead, the packs on the charger are ready to go (if the packs are over 100f after the run you'll need to let them cool before charging, but good batts should run cool).

Providing 12vdc from 120vac was what that thread was about. Building a high amp power supply for under $40.

Again we're talking opinion and it's an optional kind of thing.
i see i like youre point !
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Old 02-01-2011, 05:39 PM
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Shocks? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=OFN29112 These are the Ofna 17mm big bore shocks, I have a set on my Losi 8, and they feel so much better than the hyper 7 13mm's that I won't ever own a smaller shock again. Maybe could get away with the 16mm Ofna's, and as the 17's become popular the 16's will get cheaper...

You could run a shorter set of on-road shocks as well and switch back n forth but I would just run a good off-road setup and use the grub screws to slam down the buggy. Grub screws are in the a-arms and limit the down travel (droop) of the suspension. It may take a longer grub to get as low as you want, but it should pre-load the springs well and give you a nice firm suspension for speed runs.

You may want to check the length of the stock Ve8 springs and make sure the Ofna's have more travel (extended length minus the compressed length), and that they are short enough compressed to not require mods to the shock mount.
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Old 02-01-2011, 05:40 PM
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oh and jeff btw i spoke to Harley the owner of HHH Industries

he doesnt have the time for my project :S

2 option

i find someone on RCmonster that has a CNC machine and that could do it or

stay simple and go with the 1515 motor running 8s lipo

let me know what u think ?
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