Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I keep a plastic Handel tack in my tool bag for cleaning clay out of the screw hex. The silver screws do seem a bit soft.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (32)
Anyone running the Novack 6.5 ? and if so what gear
what kind of chasis?
what is a BCE Chasis?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (125)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
Alright I'm in! Last night A-main had 54 of these in stock so I pulled the trigger. Will this batch need new diff pins? Should I just replace them from the get go just in case?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
Got the truck yesterday and finished installing the electronics. Now I'm debating whether or not to install the carbon shock towers tonight to be ready for this weekend's races, or just leave the aluminum ones in until they bend.
BTW, I'm dissapointed that I didn't get the updated bumper (with the larger boss) that Ryan pictured in the thread a few weeks back in this 3rd shipment truck.
BTW, I'm dissapointed that I didn't get the updated bumper (with the larger boss) that Ryan pictured in the thread a few weeks back in this 3rd shipment truck.
Got the truck yesterday and finished installing the electronics. Now I'm debating whether or not to install the carbon shock towers tonight to be ready for this weekend's races, or just leave the aluminum ones in until they bend.
BTW, I'm dissapointed that I didn't get the updated bumper (with the larger boss) that Ryan pictured in the thread a few weeks back in this 3rd shipment truck.
BTW, I'm dissapointed that I didn't get the updated bumper (with the larger boss) that Ryan pictured in the thread a few weeks back in this 3rd shipment truck.
It's the opposite. The thicker the center diff fluid, the more power gets transferred to the rear, which makes it turn, or get looser, under power. Thinner fluid lets the diff work more, letting the front tires spin faster than the rear, increasing stability. Thin is usually easier to drive, thicker is generally faster if you ccan drive it, and still get enough steering.
Thicker center fluid: reduces off power steering, increases on power steering, increases acceleration, makes the car not track so straight on a rough track.
Thinner center fluid: Increases off power steering, decreases on power steering, decreases acceleration, tracks straighter on a rough track.
Thicker center fluid: reduces off power steering, increases on power steering, increases acceleration, makes the car not track so straight on a rough track.
Thinner center fluid: Increases off power steering, decreases on power steering, decreases acceleration, tracks straighter on a rough track.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
5.5lbs, even with no body and an extremely light battery, is EXTREMELY light. If it's true, he has me beat by 2 ounces and I have done just about everything within reason to lighten mine, thats 6lbs, 2ounces RTR.
My BCE chassis should be here soon, that should get me under 6lbs rtr
My BCE chassis should be here soon, that should get me under 6lbs rtr
I orderd my chriskit bout a week ago should be seeing them here soon I hope.
Not to stoked with my dealings with a local shop (@$&%#'s) who said they can get them in sooner than me buying one online and saving 30 bucks So much for having one this weekend.
no, you're in the minority. Stock screws are very soft. I've stripped many out and yes, I've got very good tools. You just got your truck not too long ago, so either they started using better screws in the newer kits and didn't tell us or you just haven't taken your truck or parts of it apart enough times. I got the Tony's screw kit and trust me, it is MUCH better quality than the stock screws. I'm not faulting Losi, this is an area that they were able to keep the costs down and most hardcore racers replace stock screws with aftermarket kits anyway.
i would be starting at 16tooth as unless its a massive track that would be ample IMO
unsensored motor does not get affected by timing is what i thought as well
and a 18tooth would be silly fast for most people i would think
run time might be a issue with only 5000 MAH lipo's i would be looking for 6000 to 6200 if you can
unsensored motor does not get affected by timing is what i thought as well
and a 18tooth would be silly fast for most people i would think
run time might be a issue with only 5000 MAH lipo's i would be looking for 6000 to 6200 if you can
yes for 10minute mains on 1/8 scale size tracks 6000-6500 is a must.. even w/ a lightened truck. You maybe able to make it on smaller 1/10 tracks for 10minutes if you are not pushing it as hard with a 5400ish pack.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
Hey man...You really want to get the ChrisKit...pins and shims...and maybe oreder up the ofna gear's, all this info can be found on the first page. I would read this if you haven't there's alot of info there.
I orderd my chriskit bout a week ago should be seeing them here soon I hope.
Not to stoked with my dealings with a local shop (@$&%#'s) who said they can get them in sooner than me buying one online and saving 30 bucks So much for having one this weekend.
I orderd my chriskit bout a week ago should be seeing them here soon I hope.
Not to stoked with my dealings with a local shop (@$&%#'s) who said they can get them in sooner than me buying one online and saving 30 bucks So much for having one this weekend.
Are you sure the Chris Pins are needed? I was hoping that by this shipment Losi would have it figured out. No?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
I noticed last night that the wheel nuts are not as "grabby" as the nuts on my associated cars. Do you guys have any problems losing a wheel during a race? I noticed on some of the nuts that the nylon was in pretty bad shape already.