BashemSmashem

iTrader: (42)

Really ? Not bad you say ?

IMO Losi shouldn't even be using the old diff housings anymore , mine would get so loose after a while you could see the diff fluid seeping around the insert .

So the diffs emptying out over a few runs is not a maintenance/performance problem ?

How about the wear on the outdrives ? I bet a lot of that can be attributed to the loose/wiggly outdrives as well .

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I agree the inserts will leak. If you use the stock grease the wiggle will not be an issue. If you need to seal the stock diff cases for silicone you can RTV the inserts in place. I have never heard of anyone granading gears because of outdrive wiggle. Only the loss of some oil.

The wear is due to the angle of the front shaft and I don't think the outdrive wiggle significantly effects outdrive wear.

BashemSmashem

iTrader: (42)

I used to kill a set of spider/sun gears every 5-6 races , you would start to hear them skipping under braking and then they would eventually strip out . Lots of others experienced this as well so it was no fluke .

Should you have to resort to gluing in the inserts yourself ? And even if you did they would eventually loosen up and start leaking again .

On the new diffs the wiggle is minimal and I agree it wouldn't add to the speed of the part wearing . But on the old diffs I disagree .

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Ive got 2 season's on my Old 1.0 Stock diffs w/Chris pins, No gear issues what so ever.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

I ran the stock diff gears from July 2011 until I got the new 2.0. Twice a week, 6-8 runs per week. Never had an issue with the gears. Only ever saw one person blow a diff.

losi007

I left out my diff shim while rebuilding my diff when i noticed a sound when i throttle up i checked it again. Now when i brake i hear like a skipping sound although it works fine. Should i worry about this?

tc5 man

I cant say i ever saw anybody or myself blow the a diff on this truck even with almost empty on oil ones. Now if that ran a 3s or 4s than it could happen more likely.

I do remmend everybody to get the HD diff cups of course !

tc5 man

Yea i would rake it apart and put the shim on.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Stay off the brakes as much as possible while in the air. I moved the battery back to balance it out. Sounds like you are doing great!!! Got your tires figured out yet.

tc5 man

With the TLR chassis i heard you dont need the big spacer on the chassis ? I tried it without the big spacer and i had to use shorter screws. Like the one that goes into the battery tray because the ones that go into the center diff mounts were to long.

Rawwolf

iTrader: (1)

The truck came with city blocks and the stock tires. Ran the city blocks all day. I didnt have the 100% correct outdoor setup. I am caught between end of indoor season and the start of outdoor. Smooth Indoor HI traction clay/bumpy outdoor med to low traction black dirt. looking forward to running again this weekend. Thanks platgof and chucko for the tips.

daniel-san

Hi guys. I'm a newbie to all things R/C and have been running this truck for a month or two now. I bought the RTR version with the Losi badged Mamba Max Pro and motor.

I love the truck, but I'm running 6000 LiPO's (35c and 100+c) and I'm only getting about 10 minutes bashing time and 15-20 minutes track time before the ESC cuts out. I bought the castle link USB connector and tried tuning it to minimize engine strain/heat and battery voltage drops but its still happening. I switch to a NimH cell and it runs fine again until the battery runs out, so my guess is its the LiPO cutoff.

Is there anything else I should try to maximise run times? Gear it down perhaps? If so, could anyone recommend/link to a pinion and/or spur gear that would be suitable?

Thanks in advance.

eddomak

iTrader: (8)

I don't think you'll get much more runtime than that on 2S without going up to the 8000mAH batteries. You could try turning down the current on the MMP.

If you are only bashing, then go to 3S. My friend's RTR on 3S 5000MaH lasts 30 minutes bashing on 14T pinion.

kidk707

iTrader: (4)

Hello, New scte 1.0 owner here, just started this RC thing in January liked it so much got another for my 6yr old daughter! Anyways I was checking it over after the weekend of use, and noticed that a front axle on one side will stop spinning during a hard full lock of the steering in one direction with the throttle on. Its on a car stand with no wheels so i was able to see where it was getting stuck at. Seems to be by the drive-shaft close to the wheel, where the cone shaped axle goes into the hub. It doesn't seem to be binding or getting caught when there is no throttle, no noises from the servo. Only when i apply throttle and make a hard right will the axle stop turning, the other side will spin fine. I turn the other way and both front axles spin freely. I've centered the servo and took off the servo horn just to check if the steering was getting caught elsewhere. My specs are listed below. Any insight would be appreciated!

TLR chassis
Radiopost Green Servo
Castle MMP
Tenshock 411 (sensored mode)
Futaba 4PL
Stock wheels/tires
rest of the truck is mostly stock parts

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

APE Battery Trays are back in stock.

Hi Guys,

I just dropped a batch of battery trays off at the anodizing shop and added them to the web store. All orders placed today or tomorrow will be shipped first thing Friday morning.

Thanks,


Chris