thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Thats what I had before I got my SCTE and it was night and day difference, the Losi was way easier to drive and drive fast!

Honda450R Dude

iTrader: (8)

Well im looking forward to it, I gota get used to rc again and get it dialed in by august for the short cource shootout in omaha

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

The nano-tech 6600 race packs have noticably more power.. than the gens ace stuff; running the 2wd stuff I guess you can deal but for the 4x4 it'll put a smile on your face keep in mind too for long 4x4 main like 8-10minutes most people on most tracks are hitting LVC if they don't have at least 6000mAH. Also note I ordered a set when they were on back order, shipped less than a week later. Hard to beat for the price.

Djioul

Hi guys,

I'm now 4 days from getting my SCTE ten and I was just thinking : this SC has the same chassis than the losi 1/8th buggy right?

Any idea which part you have to change to convert it to a buggy if I fancy that later?

I guess for sure wheels and body, plus getting rid of SC body pins and bumpers, what else?

goehm

iTrader: (45)

To ease your effort, just know that it shares design/parts with the 810 buggy, not the 8ight buggy. The 8ight looks like everything is similar, but everything on that buggy is sized bigger then the SCTE/810 counterpart.

But, I'm not sure exactly what you need. I suspect just wheels/hexes, and a body, along with some body mounts.

Djioul

Thanks for clarification.

I may not search for an exact clone of 810 or 8ight.
I just like to change the aspect of my cars sometimes, and if only wheels body and mounts make it a 1/8th buggy, I think I'll like that from time to time.

For info I did like to "transform" my Kyosho lazer into a rallye-car with a Porsche 997 235mm wide body...

Integra

iTrader: (8)

If you honestly think the Stock Chassis is up to the task, Your Seriously mistaken. It will tweak if you look at it funny. So Imo some form of Aftermarket chassis IS needed.

fivenines

Hi Casper, I'm currently going through all your suggestions and I bumped into just one little thing that's driving me crazy: "THE DROOOOP"! I don't know if I've misunderstood the setup sheets, but am I supposed to unscrew the set screws so they don't touch the chassis? Or am I supposed to screw them all the way in and back out two turns?
Sorry to bug...
John

fivenines

Thanks Bmainstar, I'll try that.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

Important differences.. Chassis is shorter, rear center shaft is shorter, body mounts, wing mount and wing, axles and 17mm nuts

Djioul

OK, in this case, I guess I'll need that and trim the body to have it fit, will let you know if I try later, thanks for your feedbacks.

boyscout

iTrader: (1)

I have found the stock chassis to be very durable. I have flat landed, cart wheeled, and lawn darted with it many times and it is still straight as an arrow. Maybe the newest version is a bit tougher than the earlier versions?

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

You are suposed to make it so the droop screws are not touching the chassis thus allowing maximum droop AS WELL AS unscrewing the shock ends 2 turns giving even more droop.

Chris Gierse

iTrader: (165)

Do the JC hazard wheels fit on this truck? Do they hit the body? What do they do to performance? I have some from my SC10 that I would like to use before I can rebuy sets of tires on SCTE wheels.

fivenines

but my shocks, especially the rear ones, become quite longer than what's written in the setup sheets. Is that ok?