Gas Rat Racin

iTrader: (37)

Where is that setup posted? I don't see it on Losi's website.

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

go to the vehicle it self then there you will find them there

Gas Rat Racin

iTrader: (37)

The only Dustin Evans setup I see if from the sc showdown and he has gold and silver springs

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

I had to replace my 6 month old front bumper today. The brace had broken and the bottom was getting cracked. After I put the new one on I noticed that now there's a 1/2" gap between the bumper the body that wasn't there before.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

I don't remember where I found it but here ya go!

THE DOC

iTrader: (3)

I just got the Chris diff spacers and washers and I have the Mugen o-rings, when put together there way to tight. Are you guys running it this way? I also posted over on RCShort Course because I'm looking for fast help so I can get it back together. Thanks.

Jake C6R

iTrader: (8)

The track is closed tomorrow...Hot Rod Hobbies in Saugus, CA...they said they are working on the track until Tuesday... wrecked my plans. I am posting photos to ease my pain.....LOL

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

I just use the stock o-rings, work well for me. Have you tried the drill break in procedure? That might free it up a bit.

THE DOC

iTrader: (3)

Havent done that, first I heard of it. I have been using the stock ones but they just leak....so I thought I would try the mugen ones. I had to push down pretty hard on the washer to get the pin in.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

put 1/2 of a bone in a drill and spin each outdrive with it.

THE DOC

iTrader: (3)

Drill thing did nothing....I wouder about leaving the washer off. I thought I saw people do this, its alot looser with it off. The washer has a warp to it with it on.

tc5 man

Well i cut of the side nerf bars to lose a gram maybe at best . Now i was going to cut off the Esc mount i already have some holes in it and the battery tray also.

But im a little iffy on it because i might mess up the knobby looking thing on it by it which is important to have to mount the battery tray on the chassis. I seen somebody with a butch of holes in the side guards its a ton of pages back on here but i see the downside of that because dirt will fly though the holes like crazy.

I know i could make some holes in the radio tray where the wires go though to the RX box.

elex300

iTrader: (110)

I Have found anytime i have to press down really hard on the washer to get the pin in there is a problem with something causing the diff to lock up or be really tight. Usually the inserts are not pressed down far enough into the diff housing. If thats not it the Mugen oring you are using may be too thick for this app. You should be able to turn the outdrive and the pin should spin freely with out hitting the washer too much. I use the stock orings everytime and have no porblems with leaking. When I do a rebuild I put a light coat of rtv on the metal insert befor installing it in the diff housing. Dont go crazy otherwise you will have trouble getting it seated properly. Then I put a bunch of black grease in the hole before inserting the outdrive. When I insert the outdrive I put my finger over the opening forcing the grease to go down and around the outdrive as I push it in. This usually does the trick for me. I have'nt had a leak for my last 5 rebuilds.

Shark413

iTrader: (24)

DOC, may be I missed it earlier, but is your diff leaking at the seal or the insert? My rear diff started leaking and I thought it was the seal, but it turned out to be oil getting around the steel diff insert and plastic diff case. I glued the insert into the case and the leak went away.

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

I cut my tray down to just the tabs and the stiff plastic that connects the screw holes, i cut off the tray at the end of the battery....took it to the track not an issue..... placed the esc directly to the chassis....