9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
03-01-2012, 09:11 PM
I think it will, and there is a company on here that made a chassis for the 22t to make it into a sct. There doing its last final test at the outback race this weekend.
03-01-2012, 09:33 PM
So I just got my brand new scte and tlr tuning kit from amain and I pulled it all apart so I can clean the grease out of the diffs and put different fluid in them. When I got the front one apart there was only 1 bearing. I tore the room apart thinking I might have lost it'd but I only remember taking one off and there isn't anywhere else it could be. So whatever I picked up one from the lhs and now I'm sitting back down to work on it. Now I can get the diff housing together so it will turn smooth. Its like the ring gear is too tight against the center drive gear and it makes a racket when I turn it (by hand and not installed yet of course). It seems like its missing a shim to set the mesh right. The rear one seemed to go together OK butif I tiighten the diffcase bolts enough to keep fluid in the diff tightened up ad feels rough.
Anyone have any advice on getting the diffs and cases together so they turn smooth and free of excessive friction?
Anyone have any advice on getting the diffs and cases together so they turn smooth and free of excessive friction?
03-01-2012, 09:42 PM
OK so I took out the center diff and found a thin shim between the diff and the bearing on the motor mount. I'm thinking that there is a missing shim or two that are sitting on the factory assembly table next to the other bearing that was missing from my front diff. At least now I know what I need to order to get it working right....
03-01-2012, 09:53 PM
Tech Apprentice
i just put in the front aluminum hinge pin holder in the front with all zeros,what are u guys running in the rear?
03-01-2012, 10:31 PM
03-01-2012, 10:36 PM
Hey guys.
I will be running a Tekin SC4X 5.5 any suggestions on gearing?
I will be running a Tekin SC4X 5.5 any suggestions on gearing?
03-01-2012, 10:37 PM
OK so I took out the center diff and found a thin shim between the diff and the bearing on the motor mount. I'm thinking that there is a missing shim or two that are sitting on the factory assembly table next to the other bearing that was missing from my front diff. At least now I know what I need to order to get it working right....
03-01-2012, 11:15 PM
thats the only spot that a shim will work, on the f/r diffs there really isn't a way to shim them like that, you will need to shim them with a 5x8mm shim on the pinion, the other shim on the center diff is to keep the spur off the motor mount,,, I know I tried that last summer with mine, still got a that extra shims I was gonna use in the front and rear diffs in my pit box, lol
Bummer. I can't shim the pinion because that would make it tighter. As it is its noisy almost like a ratchet. Input it all back together for now. I'll mess with it more later I guess.
03-02-2012, 12:03 AM
Shimming the pinion just moves it in it doesn't move it twords the ring gear and make it tighter. I used to shim my pinion on my 8ight and it made it buttery smooth.
03-02-2012, 01:57 AM
Anyone figure out how to get a hold of 3,5x7x1 spacers in the cheapest way?
03-02-2012, 02:38 AM
I have the battery moved towards the rear of the truck..next step for me is to do the shock oil,ride hight,and springs...I bought my truck used so as for the diff I have no clue what he has in it..ill check the first couple of 100's pages for diff set ups..lol thanks for the help/ info
Let me start by saying I don't want this question to turn into a flame war, I'm trying to decide between the two choices I've listed and not looking for any others. I currently run the Copperhead 5150 and am quite pleased with the performance although I am considering trying a sensored system again, I've ran the Tekin 4600/RX8 combo prior to the copperhead and I wasn't that pleased with the smoothness of the esc. So, now I'm trying to decide on whether to try the new team orion r10 pro with either a tekin 4600 or another brand 550 can or go with the vtx10r and one of there 550 can motors. I would like actual information from those of you that run these, not that you've heard or you know someone who knows someone. I run on a large indoor 160' by 70' track, the truck is lighter than stock but not super light. If you run the r10 pro or vtx10r in the SCTE I'd like to hear some details as to the motor's, temps, track size and if your running any fans, Thanks...
The SCTE is a converted 10th scale Truggy the Ten T and the 10th scale buggy. These vehicles are based on the 8th scale 8ight but do not share the same parts. The Ten T parts were the same design just smaller than the 8ight. This X-ray conversion uses the same drivetrain from the 808 8th scale buggy witch is a pretty much copy of the 8ight. I'm pretty sure the rules state that you can not do a direct conversion using a 8th scale drivetrain. I could be wrong though. If it was legal then Losi should have done a direct parts conversion on the 8ight to a SC.
03-02-2012, 02:49 AM
03-02-2012, 05:45 AM
Just to confirm the Losi 22 1mm shock limiting spacers can be used when putting the low friction orings in. You don't have to buy a whole 1/8 shock rebuild kit to get them. Lucky for me I have a 22 and already had both.
Orings
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...haft-O-Rings-8
Spacers
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ter-Set-TLR-22
Orings
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...haft-O-Rings-8
Spacers
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ter-Set-TLR-22
Last edited by elex300; 03-02-2012 at 06:00 AM.
03-02-2012, 05:50 AM
Then these should work, a bit cheaper than a 1/8 rebuild set atleast.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ter-Set-TLR-22
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ter-Set-TLR-22
03-02-2012, 06:34 AM
Blue sleeve is nothing more than heat shrink...I forget what size or what pack it came in. Works perfectly
Weight of both chassis is same. As far as flex, I want some flex....some flex is good.
Weight of both chassis is same. As far as flex, I want some flex....some flex is good.