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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-01-2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mxnickj
Can someone tell me when the TLR tuning kits started coming with the bleeder shock caps?? I was shocked when I opened my kit last night... but that was short lived when I realized there was only 3 shock cap o-rings in there

Can someone fill me in on the proper bleeding procedure for the shocks with the bleeder caps??

Also, can you guys tell me what size hinge pin reamer I would need for this truck?? Mine don't feel as free as I would like
I think all the hinge pins are .125 but measure them!

contact customer support and they will get you the missing part.

If you want to run emulsion you can cut out the center of some bladders and use those for cap rings as well.

Unscrew the bleeder screw. Put the o-ring or cut out bladder in the top of the shock cap.

Fill the shock with oil. Make sure you pump the shock to get the oil past the piston. Once you let the air bubbles pass, fill the shock to the very top with the piston all the way to the bottom.

Screw on the shock cap all the way.

Slowly press the piston to the top of the shock. There should be some excess oil that comes out the screw hole. With the piston at the very top of the stroke put the screw back in and you are done.

Check that the swaybar is not binding the the rear suspension.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:04 PM
  #37862  
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Originally Posted by Casper
I think all the hinge pins are .125 but measure them!

contact customer support and they will get you the missing part.

If you want to run emulsion you can cut out the center of some bladders and use those for cap rings as well.

Unscrew the bleeder screw. Put the o-ring or cut out bladder in the top of the shock cap.

Fill the shock with oil. Make sure you pump the shock to get the oil past the piston. Once you let the air bubbles pass, fill the shock to the very top with the piston all the way to the bottom.

Screw on the shock cap all the way.

Slowly press the piston to the top of the shock. There should be some excess oil that comes out the screw hole. With the piston at the very top of the stroke put the screw back in and you are done.

Check that the swaybar is not binding the the rear suspension.
That would be if your wanted to build the rebound in your shock "dead" right. Couldn't your adjust the rebound to your liking by not moving the shaft all the way in once the cap was on? Really need to pick up some bleeder caps as it gets time consuming to open the cap back up to make the rebound match the other shock.
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:06 PM
  #37863  
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3.5mm (.1375)

You can use a #28 drill to open the arms up a bit.

Originally Posted by mxnickj
Also, can you guys tell me what size hinge pin reamer I would need for this truck?? Mine don't feel as free as I would like
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:12 PM
  #37864  
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Originally Posted by mxnickj
Can someone tell me when the TLR tuning kits started coming with the bleeder shock caps?? I was shocked when I opened my kit last night... but that was short lived when I realized there was only 3 shock cap o-rings in there
kinda makes me excited as I had my LHS order mine tues as he didnt stock it so it's right from horizon but I'm not holding my breath
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockthecatbox21
That would be if your wanted to build the rebound in your shock "dead" right. Couldn't your adjust the rebound to your liking by not moving the shaft all the way in once the cap was on? Really need to pick up some bleeder caps as it gets time consuming to open the cap back up to make the rebound match the other shock.
You really don't want to build emulsion shocks with rebound. That is a bladder thing.

Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
3.5mm (.1375)

You can use a #28 drill to open the arms up a bit.
oops thanks. Chris. I have my 2wd SC hat on!
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
You really don't want to build emulsion shocks with rebound. That is a bladder thing.



oops thanks. Chris. I have my 2wd SC hat on!
Then i've been making building my shocks a lot harder. I wish i knew you were supposed to build em "dead" for emulsion. Luckily i have to change some pistons and oil anyway.
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:55 PM
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Yup, my tuning kit had bleeder caps also...too bad I can't use em
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:17 PM
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Questions?? ??

Originally Posted by TCCustoms
Yup, my tuning kit had bleeder caps also...too bad I can't use em
Why you say you cant use them??? Did I miss something??
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:59 PM
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This looks promising.

http://www.kingheads.com/product_inf...9cbd77e1f18716
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by timannnn6
Nice ! 43 bucks is pretty cheap if it is as good as KH's other parts IMO .

The Elite mount is 75 and doesnt have the features this has ........
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by XXXDad
Why you say you cant use them??? Did I miss something??
I run the SNR towers +9mm, 8ight shocks, and 8ight stand-offs so the shock stuff i cant use and i dont have the stock shocks otherwise i'd be selling the 8ight shocks since there are becoming alot more options for the scte shocks as for what they are, they are very nice and stout but got a deal on the 8ight shocks so i put the SCTE shocks on my Sl4sh as an upgrade so both my rides at the time got upgrades but have since sold the slash with the upgrades

Originally Posted by timannnn6
Too bad there isnt a pic to see what your pre-ordering...i just ordered their chassis and dual bearing center diff mount so of course they release a new product i would have also bought but oh well, i dont really need it, lol!
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by timannnn6
Yeah it does sound good wish there was a picture .
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:45 PM
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Well i have owned this truck for a long time and replaced the diff fluid many times, i bought another truck and just did the diffs and the front diff is binding. Not sure why, I know how to build the diffs and seat everything properly but when I tighten it down it still locks up. I got sick of trying to figure it out and just used two gasgets. Figure its just the diff housing that is out. Known problem?
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by myl3s91
Well i have owned this truck for a long time and replaced the diff fluid many times, i bought another truck and just did the diffs and the front diff is binding. Not sure why, I know how to build the diffs and seat everything properly but when I tighten it down it still locks up. I got sick of trying to figure it out and just used two gasgets. Figure its just the diff housing that is out. Known problem?
Make sure the small alum blocks are pushed all the way down in there slots, with your small allen push em down!!
May help and be sure not to snug up the screws tite at all!!!Cheers!
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Resqnu
Thanks guys. Guess the stock ones are not very durable. Any recommendations on chassis? I'm not trying to start a chassis war. After reading the thread the KH stands out to me as it changes the front drive shaft angle. But I am open on anyone. Might be able to pick up a TLR slightly used cheap from a friend.

Also, should I swamp chassis before running? Will the changed angle hurt anything if I race tonight before swapping chassis?
When the front shaft pin was coming thru the plastic sleeve the angle seemed to be the problem,The new teckno front shaft has a fix for that as well as the newer one from Losi uses a set screw now!I use black grease and a set screw style stock front shaft and have had no failures in quite a long time.Lost two in a year and a half and none since going to the set screw!If You can drive some trucks with different chassis to see which suits your driving style,that may help You decide
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