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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-02-2012, 07:29 AM
  #30376  
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Originally Posted by elex300
Just to confirm the Losi 22 1mm shock limiting spacers can be used when putting the low friction orings in. You don't have to buy a whole 1/8 shock rebuild kit to get them. Lucky for me I have a 22 and already had both.

Orings
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...haft-O-Rings-8

Spacers
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ter-Set-TLR-22
Thanks Eric!
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:28 AM
  #30377  
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Originally Posted by JPG
Thanks Eric!
Yea thx for the update. I will give them a try!!
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:53 AM
  #30378  
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Thanks for verifying this for me. I have a limiter kit on order but had not been able to try them out yet.

Originally Posted by elex300
Just to confirm the Losi 22 1mm shock limiting spacers can be used when putting the low friction orings in. You don't have to buy a whole 1/8 shock rebuild kit to get them. Lucky for me I have a 22 and already had both.

Orings
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...haft-O-Rings-8

Spacers
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ter-Set-TLR-22
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:58 AM
  #30379  
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Default Update on fluids...

just bought a used SCTE... YEAH YEAH lol

Im going to strip her down and rebuild it checking for unseen problems...My question for you guys is whats the best set up on fluids? (running out door clay)

Diffs - front/center/rear

Shocks - Front/Rear

I know you guys have talked about it but DAMN over 2000 pages.....lol kinda hard to find them...


Thanks for your input - remember by helping we save the sport!
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:10 AM
  #30380  
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing
just bought a used SCTE... YEAH YEAH lol

Im going to strip her down and rebuild it checking for unseen problems...My question for you guys is whats the best set up on fluids? (running out door clay)

Diffs - front/center/rear

Shocks - Front/Rear

I know you guys have talked about it but DAMN over 2000 pages.....lol kinda hard to find them...


Thanks for your input - remember by helping we save the sport!
I would start with either 7/5/3 or 5/5/3 in the diffs. If it is a big open track I would do 7/5/3. I run #3/27.5 and #4/27.5 in my shocks, but I race on a smooth indoor track. You might check the losi website for setups. Good luck!
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:31 AM
  #30381  
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Originally Posted by BlackStarRacing
just bought a used SCTE... YEAH YEAH lol

Im going to strip her down and rebuild it checking for unseen problems...My question for you guys is whats the best set up on fluids? (running out door clay)

Diffs - front/center/rear

Shocks - Front/Rear

I know you guys have talked about it but DAMN over 2000 pages.....lol kinda hard to find them...


Thanks for your input - remember by helping we save the sport!
Outdoor has so many more variations than indoor. For example, I ran the short course nats in CT last year and ran my normal indoor setup and it worked great. But that isnt always the case.

Does the track get rutted up?
Are there very large 8th scale sized jumps?
etc...

If it gets rutted up, go 5/3/3 on the diffs, it will be easier to drive. If not, go 5/5/3 or if you want it a bit more numb 7/5/3.

If there are large jumps go with 30 or if its hot there go to 32.5 front and rear with 3 in front anf 4 in back for pistons. If its a tenth scale track, then 27.5 should be great.
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:34 AM
  #30382  
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Originally Posted by gawith0413
I would start with either 7/5/3 or 5/5/3 in the diffs. If it is a big open track I would do 7/5/3. I run #3/27.5 and #4/27.5 in my shocks, but I race on a smooth indoor track. You might check the losi website for setups. Good luck!
Good look thanks for the insight!
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:34 AM
  #30383  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
Outdoor has so many more variations than indoor. For example, I ran the short course nats in CT last year and ran my normal indoor setup and it worked great. But that isnt always the case.

Does the track get rutted up?
Are there very large 8th scale sized jumps?
etc...

If it gets rutted up, go 5/3/3 on the diffs, it will be easier to drive. If not, go 5/5/3 or if you want it a bit more numb 7/5/3.

If there are large jumps go with 30 or if its hot there go to 32.5 front and rear with 3 in front anf 4 in back for pistons. If its a tenth scale track, then 27.5 should be great.
Good look thanks for the insight!
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:28 AM
  #30384  
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Default 22T shocks on SCTE?

Hello guys,

I am new here. Sorry that I am not going to check back the pervious 2000+ pages but if somebody could help that would be great.

Does the TLR5072 Shock kit 22T Rear and TLR5071 Shock Kit 22T Front fits on SCTE? I love these shocks and I would prefer to use them directly instead of practically changing all SCTE shock spares to optional ones.

Thanks a lot in advance!
Gergely
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Gergely
Hello guys,

I am new here. Sorry that I am not going to check back the pervious 2000+ pages but if somebody could help that would be great.

Does the TLR5072 Shock kit 22T Rear and TLR5071 Shock Kit 22T Front fits on SCTE? I love these shocks and I would prefer to use them directly instead of practically changing all SCTE shock spares to optional ones.

Thanks a lot in advance!
Gergely
They are quite close. I guess you could probably make them work although the body versus shaft stuff is a bit different here and there.

Going by my eye...the 22T rear shock would not have as much up travel but only by about 1.5mm. and the same is true with the fronts. See, the shock caps are taller on the 22 so this makes the body area versus the shaft area a bit different ratio.

Also, if you want to use the SCTE sprins, you have to change the shock bottoms. You also have to drill out the 22 shock bushing to fit the scte.

Last edited by hacker07; 03-02-2012 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:45 AM
  #30386  
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After rebuilding my diffs I noticed that they feel "notchy" even after backing the screws out. I seem to remember this being mentioned before but cant remember what the fix was. Did it end up being bad diff cups or just adding another paper gasket to open the gear mesh?
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:49 AM
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Hello Ryan,

Thank you very much for the quick and useful response!

Many thanks,
Gergely

Originally Posted by hacker07
They are quite close. I guess you could probably make them work although the body versus shaft stuff is a bit different here and there.

Going by my eye...the 22T rear shock would not have as much up travel but only by about 1.5mm. and the same is true with the fronts. See, the shock caps are taller on the 22 so this makes the body area versus the shaft area a bit different ratio.

Also, if you want to use the SCTE sprins, you have to change the shock bottoms. You also have to drill out the 22 shock bushing to fit the scte.

Last edited by Gergely; 03-02-2012 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:51 AM
  #30388  
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from what i understand, the rules say you cant convert a buggy into a SC truck.. but the new XRAY thing uses 1/8th drive train..

isnt that basically a converted buggy?
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:03 PM
  #30389  
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Originally Posted by Makarrov
After rebuilding my diffs I noticed that they feel "notchy" even after backing the screws out. I seem to remember this being mentioned before but cant remember what the fix was. Did it end up being bad diff cups or just adding another paper gasket to open the gear mesh?
This happens when the little metal square inserts dont get seated or pushed all the way against the housing and so it pushes the gear forward. Once you run it a pack or two, it should seat itself and be all good. I would nto recommend ever not fully tightening the screws as this seals the diff.

Originally Posted by Gergely
Hello Ryan,

Thank you very much for the quick and useful response!

Is the mounting of the 22T shocks are direct (or easy) fit on SCTE?

Many thanks,
Gergely
It will take some manipulation and drilling and mixing of parts, but it could be done. Now if its better, I am not sure other than they are a little lighter. The SCTE shock with all the HA and TiNi stuff are butter smooth built with the stock x ring and all.

I personally do not recommend using a 22 o ring in the scte shock. This is only for the extreme racer, not the everyday user.
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
This happens when the little metal square inserts dont get seated or pushed all the way against the housing and so it pushes the gear forward. Once you run it a pack or two, it should seat itself and be all good. I would nto recommend ever not fully tightening the screws as this seals the diff.



It will take some manipulation and drilling and mixing of parts, but it could be done. Now if its better, I am not sure other than they are a little lighter. The SCTE shock with all the HA and TiNi stuff are butter smooth built with the stock x ring and all.

I personally do not recommend using a 22 o ring in the scte shock. This is only for the extreme racer, not the everyday user.
My stock shocks work xxx-Cellant,,,That must mean I am an everyday user
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