9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
10-12-2011, 06:50 AM
Tech Regular
10-12-2011, 06:58 AM
I thought I was making progress on my ready to run weight. I'm at 6 lb 10 oz with:
- lightened outdrives front, middle, rear
- chopped rear bumper, sides no mud flaps
- chopped battery tray
- chopped nerf bars off the side
- Lunsford punishers
- chopped center diff top brace
- removed outer sleeve from Ballistic 550
- jammin lightweight wheel hexes
Next up I guess is a lighter chassis and carbon shock towers. Will I ever be under 6 lbs???
- lightened outdrives front, middle, rear
- chopped rear bumper, sides no mud flaps
- chopped battery tray
- chopped nerf bars off the side
- Lunsford punishers
- chopped center diff top brace
- removed outer sleeve from Ballistic 550
- jammin lightweight wheel hexes
Next up I guess is a lighter chassis and carbon shock towers. Will I ever be under 6 lbs???
Last edited by Grandturk; 10-12-2011 at 07:27 AM.
10-12-2011, 07:03 AM
I thought I was making progress on my ready to run weight. I'm at 6 lb 10 oz with:
- lightened outdrives front, middle, read
- chopped rear bumper, sides no mud flaps
- chopped battery tray
- Lunsford punishers
- chopped center diff top brace
- removed outer sleeve from Ballistic 550
- jammin lightweight wheel hexes
Next up I guess is a lighter chassis and carbon shock towers. Will I ever be under 6 lbs???
- lightened outdrives front, middle, read
- chopped rear bumper, sides no mud flaps
- chopped battery tray
- Lunsford punishers
- chopped center diff top brace
- removed outer sleeve from Ballistic 550
- jammin lightweight wheel hexes
Next up I guess is a lighter chassis and carbon shock towers. Will I ever be under 6 lbs???
10-12-2011, 07:15 AM
My truck weighs a healthy 6.7lbs and still make 8 min mains. All on 2s. Not a fan of hacking up this truck as I only run outdoor 1/8.
10-12-2011, 07:19 AM
I'm was able to make 10 minute mains at stock weight with a 12T pinion on the 4.5 Ballistic with no timing. I'm just trying to reduce weight to get some more speed and handling out of it - and hopefully be easier on the Lipo's.
10-12-2011, 07:48 AM
10-12-2011, 07:50 AM
My SCTE has the exact same width as my Kyosho MP9 TKI and the SCTE has about a 2mm longer wheelbase. With that being said, what designates it to be 10th scale?
Also the Losi 810 is 8th scale, same size Ten T is 10th scale, and the 3/4in. longer SCTE is 10th. Things that make you say huuuummm.
Also the Losi 810 is 8th scale, same size Ten T is 10th scale, and the 3/4in. longer SCTE is 10th. Things that make you say huuuummm.
10-12-2011, 07:51 AM
I thought I was making progress on my ready to run weight. I'm at 6 lb 10 oz with:
- lightened outdrives front, middle, rear
- chopped rear bumper, sides no mud flaps
- chopped battery tray
- chopped nerf bars off the side
- Lunsford punishers
- chopped center diff top brace
- removed outer sleeve from Ballistic 550
- jammin lightweight wheel hexes
Next up I guess is a lighter chassis and carbon shock towers. Will I ever be under 6 lbs???
- lightened outdrives front, middle, rear
- chopped rear bumper, sides no mud flaps
- chopped battery tray
- chopped nerf bars off the side
- Lunsford punishers
- chopped center diff top brace
- removed outer sleeve from Ballistic 550
- jammin lightweight wheel hexes
Next up I guess is a lighter chassis and carbon shock towers. Will I ever be under 6 lbs???
My truck was at 5lbs, 14 ounces RTR...but apparently the little bit of grime and the shoe goo I have added over the last few months have added back 2 ounces. It's amazing how much weight you can accumulate on a body in short order!!!
Tires, even of the same brand, can vary over an ounce between tread patterns. The dirt that gets in the vent holes also adds weight, as well as any moisture that gets inside.
The next biggest losers for you will be some carbon towers and getting rid of the stock hingepin holders. You can lose 3 ounces with a smaller motor choice as well.
10-12-2011, 08:26 AM
Perhaps your battery is as well? How much shoe goo is on your body? What tires and wheels did you weigh it with? Did you wash those tires lately(ie water inside) etc etc.
The next biggest losers for you will be some carbon towers and getting rid of the stock hingepin holders. You can lose 3 ounces with a smaller motor choice as well.
The next biggest losers for you will be some carbon towers and getting rid of the stock hingepin holders. You can lose 3 ounces with a smaller motor choice as well.
Battery might be on the heavy side - SMC 6000 mah hard case 2s.
Waiting for that new Viper ESC and motor Salad's been torturing us with. And CF towers and Losi alum hinge pin holders are next. What's that get me down to - maybe 6lbs 5 oz?
Tires were a brand new set of proline suburbs on DE Trinidads in MC Compound. Honestly I thought these felt heavy in comparison to the stock Losi Eclipse and wheel.
10-12-2011, 08:29 AM
Jenny Craig would be so proud of all these malnourished TEN-SCTEs. LOL!!!! Wow!! 5lb 14oz.....sounds like a premature baby and not a Losi. LOL!!!
10-12-2011, 08:37 AM
Just was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a good power supply for it? or what others who have it are powering it with? thanks again guyshttp://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Supply-Black
They stand for 7000, 5000, 3000 cps. The team all uses Losi diff oil but most of the major brand dff oils should be close (AE, Kyosho, Mugan, ofna etc).
10-12-2011, 08:52 AM
10-12-2011, 08:53 AM
I still dont understand how to adjust the droop on this truck, mines completely stock ATM, I see the grub screw in the A arm that hits on the chassis, Is that what the screw to adjust droop or is that for adjusting shock travel?
If someone could just explain step by step and make it easy to understand that would be awesome.
Thanks in advance!!!
If someone could just explain step by step and make it easy to understand that would be awesome.
Thanks in advance!!!
10-12-2011, 09:09 AM
I love this little power supply. It is not the cheapest option out there but has been very relable for me and it is small so it does not take up too much space and with a 24amp rating it should meet all your needs.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Supply-Black
They stand for 7000, 5000, 3000 cps. The team all uses Losi diff oil but most of the major brand dff oils should be close (AE, Kyosho, Mugan, ofna etc).
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Supply-Black
They stand for 7000, 5000, 3000 cps. The team all uses Losi diff oil but most of the major brand dff oils should be close (AE, Kyosho, Mugan, ofna etc).
10-12-2011, 09:19 AM
No offense is meant here, honestly, but after all these terribly simple and basic questions we have seen you post, I HIGHLY recommend that you invest some money into a personal mechanic/pit crew lol.
The little grub (set) screw that is threaded into the arm and makes contact with the chassis is the droop screw. By "tightening" it, you make the screw stick further out the bottom forcing it to contact the chassis sooner and reducing your total droop. The more you "tighten" that screw the higher up your arms will raise when holding the car off the ground (or while jumping or driving thru bumpy/rutty track sections). The more droop you have the lower your arm will hang which means you will have the tire contacting the track sooner and more often.
"you cant go fast if your wheels arent touching the track"
You want your droop to be close to full. I dont even have my screws contacting the chassis most of the time.
The little grub (set) screw that is threaded into the arm and makes contact with the chassis is the droop screw. By "tightening" it, you make the screw stick further out the bottom forcing it to contact the chassis sooner and reducing your total droop. The more you "tighten" that screw the higher up your arms will raise when holding the car off the ground (or while jumping or driving thru bumpy/rutty track sections). The more droop you have the lower your arm will hang which means you will have the tire contacting the track sooner and more often.
"you cant go fast if your wheels arent touching the track"
You want your droop to be close to full. I dont even have my screws contacting the chassis most of the time.
I still dont understand how to adjust the droop on this truck, mines completely stock ATM, I see the grub screw in the A arm that hits on the chassis, Is that what the screw to adjust droop or is that for adjusting shock travel?
If someone could just explain step by step and make it easy to understand that would be awesome.
Thanks in advance!!!
If someone could just explain step by step and make it easy to understand that would be awesome.
Thanks in advance!!!