RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

if i were buying a RTR, i'd rather it didn't have castle's name on it anywhere. that way i wouldn't get the standard HPI customer service answer of "take it up with castle".

barry1me

iTrader: (9)

whatever stock is, is what Im running....should I drill out mine some?

barry1me

iTrader: (9)

what springs, and ride height are you running? My truck just doenst have much rebound in the shocks. The truck sticks when you push it down.

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

Just a quick update... The Viper Copperhead R system, Speed Control and Motor will be around $150.00, yes that is for the entire system. We are aiming for mid/end of November for release.

My goal was to produce something like the 1410 combo but include a ESC that actually works with 550's. The ESC design is awesome, small, programmable and will handle up to 3S. This is not a re-badge system, it's completely redesigned from the ground up (nothing Viper is re-badged). Once I can post pics of the ESC I will.

Here is the R52 (5200kv)

+ YouTube Video

And the R45 (4500kv)

+ YouTube Video

Starlite033

iTrader: (10)

Now there is a claim I have no trouble believing.

Pretty excited about this one. It's not that Castle has been disappointing but they haven't done anything exciting recently in 1/10. I think this will end up pre-ordered for me.

@Salad

I hope you don't mind me changing your original text some to reflect what you really meant

larlev

iTrader: (4)

I run 28mm front and rear. 35w(f), 30w(r), red 8ight springs...I believe the rates are 4.1 and 2.5, shocks in middle tower, (outer) arms front, (middle) arms rear. I also have camber mounting on bottom hole in towers, for a higher roll center.
My truck is pretty much stock..some carbon stuff but still in the 6.4lb range. I also drilled pistons to #56 rear, stock front.

Try this setup and see how you like it.

barry1me

iTrader: (9)

what are your track conditions/dif weights, and what shock pistons are you using? Are you running emulsion or bladder setup?

larlev

iTrader: (4)

I actually run this setup indoors and outdoors. Outdoor track is dry and dusty...some sandy spots on one track. Not too rough, but rough. If that makes sense? Both 1/8 scale size.

I tried both emulsion and bladder..currently running bladder. This was setup used for months. I currently have the new 2 stage pistons x 4. Like the truck even more...they really do work well. Also build my shocks with zero rebound.

Diffs are 5,5,3

I'm not a pro by any means....but will say haven't had a single person drive my truck say it wasn't dialed. It's all personal preference and driving style.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

If it sticks when you push it down then something is binding in the suspension. Take the shocks and sway bars off and make sure all of the arms move very free with no binding at all. They should just fall under their own weight with no hesitation at all. if there is any binding find out what is causing it and fix it. I'd bet a bent hinge pin somewhere.

I have bent a few outer rear hinge pins and the first time it took me a little while to figure out what is causing the funky handling. I bent a couple since and now I know as soon as it happens. the back end starts to get loose and it just doesn't accelerate as well without stepping out.

Another common cause of binding in this truck is over tightening the 2 screws that hold the hinge pin mounts on the dff case. If you tighten them to much they start to squeeze the arms and it binds.

Ridley

iTrader: (13)

One thing nobody else has mentioned was to check the rear arms for binding. Take the shocks off, and the arms should flop around with ZERO resistance. If your truck is not rebounding, this is the number one cause. several issues is the ends of the arms rubbing on the hingepin holders. I sand mine down so there's just a tiny bit of slop in the arm. Secondly, is dirt entering the arm/hingpin hole, and causing friction. Clean those regularly, and perhaps even ream them till they move like butter. Lastly, is people tighten down the swaybar set screws too tight. Make sure the swaybar flops around freely in the holders.

Suspension bind, IMO, is the biggest issue to getting a truck to handle. When thats taken care of, shock tuning becomes much easier and the changes you make will be more readily apparent. I'd bet if I took 50 SCTE's from guys on this site, and tested them for bind in the suspension....only around 5 would pass. It's a big reason why so many people are so far apart on suspension settups

Edited: Beaten by a faster typer, lol

barry1me

iTrader: (9)

im going to try your setup...where can I get those shock pistons(56)? I will see how it works for me.

barry1me

iTrader: (9)

agreed 100% The first thing I checked when I remove the shocks tonight was to see how well the suspension moved w/o shocks. It seemed very free but I will inspect more once I pull apart my shocks.

Buzz3

Racing tonight I found after 5 min runs that the motor would temp around 170 but the ESC was 195-215 according to the Novak temp chart. (Red blinking light) I have the SC Pro and 4.5 with the 14mm tuning rotor turning a 19 in the SCTE with no timing added. The batts are 6000 25-50C Turnigy's. The question is why the ESC is so high while the motor seems under control. I will try the 18 with timing added next time out. If that doesn't work I will pull timing. Just looking for advice. Thanks

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

I can pretty much guarentee you that you have to loosen the little setscrews against the rear sway bar so that it moves freely back and forth. Second, make sure your shocks are not too tight at the top. Should fix most eveyrhting.

SCUBA STEVE

iTrader: (89)

Thank you!....