B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

Where is everyone measuring their ride height at?

h8thatadmin

Front: The flat area right behind where the bumper hooks into the chassis.
Rear: Next to the cutout for the transmission.

RB5SP

iTrader: (52)

I recently tried out the Frank Root standard indoor clay setup and it wasn't great for my track, so I am going back to what I started with which was the evans setup from the 2011 reedy race. My question is I currently have installed the aluminum rear camber block which I believe is 4-7 grams heavier than the stock plastic piece. On the evans setup it calls for 1/4oz of weight behind the esc, I have the tlr brass weights so I'm assuming I should only run 7grams behind the esc due to the aluminum camber block, is this correct?.

ChrisWolfson

iTrader: (3)

I would run the aluminum rear camber block with 7 grams (1/4 oz.) of weight. The TLR weight kit lets you just bolt the 7 gram piece on top of the tranny. That's what I'm currently running.

On the front end, I'm running the aluminum pivot with the brass kick shim - so I have some additional weight up there as well.

forwardonly

iTrader: (3)

I finally got my shorty lipo in. I moved the battery retainer to the rear position and ran the battery all the way forward in that position. I added 1/2oz of lead on top of the servo and I was thrilled with the improvements in the buggy. The car was much more nimble off the line and I could pop over jumps with little to no run up. Felt great in the air as well. I could adjust the attitude with much greater control.

I also ran AKA Vectors in the rear with the red AKA inserts. Loved the tires!

mtman75

iTrader: (1)

On the slipper clutch when the bolt is flush how many turns is a good starting point to set the slipper clutch to get it set proplerly?

RB5SP

iTrader: (52)

I'm not sure but I would say 3 to 3 1/2 turns in would be a good starting point, but make sure your diff is set properly and after you set your diff I would definitely start the slipper off on the loose side, you dont want to bark your diff while trying to set your slipper.

mtman75

iTrader: (1)

Thanks

h8thatadmin

I know this may sound weird, but the only way to set the slipper properly is to set the slipper. Think of it like setting ride height. You adjust the spring collars to achieve a certain ride height. You don't set the spring collars to a certain point and then hope that the ride height is right. First off no matter what people tell you the slipper is not a traction controlling device. It is suspension for the drivetrain. This is straight from the TLR engineers. To adjust the slipper I start with the lock nut flush with the end of the threads. Then I hold the tires and punch it. Then I tighten the lock nut a 1/2 turn. Then I punch it again. Every time you tighten then punch it the pitch of the sound the slipper makes will get slightly deeper. Keep repeating the punch it half turn routine until the front wheels are close to coming off the ground when you punch it. Once it starts getting close to lifting the front tires I only tighten the lock nut by a 1/4 turn. I get it so the front tires lift, then I back off the lock nut by a 1/16 of a turn.

With all of that being said, it is absolutely vital that your diff is broken in and tight, and that the slipper pads and plates are clean, before trying this slipper setting method. If your diff is just a little too loose, it will slip during this process which will ruin your diff. Just the oils from your fingerprints can contaminate the slipper to the point where it will slip too much.

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

^that.

RB5SP

iTrader: (52)

Defintitely a better explanation on what to do, I figured he might know the rest of the process.

Jedev

iTrader: (2)

My wing seems to be angled up more than most and even with a 5mm wicker I think it's taxing my 17.5 too much. I think the raised trans mod might have exaggerated it even more. I noticed Evans seems to be running his almost flat at the Cactus race. Mine is on an extreme angle compared to his and it looks like he is running the same JC wing as mine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4dWC...layer_embedded

Thought I'd ask and see if anyone has successfully bent their wing mounts down before I attempt to heat and possibly melt mine.

slyts6

iTrader: (37)

I have just picked up a TLR22 second hand which is coming with a Novak 5.5t motor. I just need to know what esc I should be looking at that can handel this motor and will fit in the 22 ok? Is the 5.5t too much for this buggy? I plan to run it in rear setup to start with the try mid when I get some batteries.

I also need to buy a servo for it.... Should I buy a low profile one or is there plenty of room in the front end for say a 1258TG?

MrGidi123

iTrader: (4)

I would use a 7.5T motor 5.5T is way to much power
I'm using 7.5T motor with mid motor indoor carpet with boost mod and it's perfect.

wstuart

iTrader: (117)

Anyone tried the tlr titianium screw kit i am thinking of getting this for my buggy. Are these screws any good - do they strip or break?