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Old 12-17-2011, 10:57 AM
  #12496  
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Default Gear Diff O-Rings

I managed to damage an O-ring in the 22 Gear Diff. The manual only lists the o-ring in a kit with the out drives and pins. I would prefer not to spend $16 for parts I do not need.

Does anyone know the correct size o-ring or a part number of an o-ring that would fit?
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:42 PM
  #12497  
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Made some good headway with my 22 setup today. Ended up real close to Matt Chambers setup. Very nice setup IMOP.
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:36 PM
  #12498  
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Quick question, I am setting up my 22 for outdoor, bought a used car and we run on med size medbite 1/8 tracks, and I need a good starting set up. I have serched but after 800 plus pages my eyes are hurting lol. All the setups posted seem to be indoor clay. Has any one even ran out door. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:44 PM
  #12499  
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Double post

Last edited by rcracer1990; 12-17-2011 at 09:56 PM. Reason: double post
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:52 PM
  #12500  
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I am hating the diff in my 22, I've rebuilt it with the B-fast kit, and its still pretty rough. Plus the outdrives have worn excessively, with only 4 days of racing on them...

I know a lot of guys have went back to the CR diff and was wondering what all has to be done, i.e. bearings, etc, to accomodate this.

Thanks
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:05 AM
  #12501  
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Originally Posted by rcracer1990
Quick question, I am setting up my 22 for outdoor, bought a used car and we run on med size medbite 1/8 tracks, and I need a good starting set up. I have serched but after 800 plus pages my eyes are hurting lol. All the setups posted seem to be indoor clay. Has any one even ran out door. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.
One of the setups here should fit your needs http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...022#prodSetups

Originally Posted by sprint5h
I am hating the diff in my 22, I've rebuilt it with the B-fast kit, and its still pretty rough. Plus the outdrives have worn excessively, with only 4 days of racing on them...

I know a lot of guys have went back to the CR diff and was wondering what all has to be done, i.e. bearings, etc, to accomodate this.

Thanks
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html
I follow his break in process and now my TLR ball diff had lasted probably 8 packs by now and should be good for another 4
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:54 AM
  #12502  
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Been building diffs for 20 years... not the problem....

Just need the info I asked for please.

Thanks
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:02 AM
  #12503  
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA
I'd go right back to the standard setup stuff and move that battery back. One 10mm pad standing up behind the shorty pack. Ride height is very noticeable to me too, 24mm front and rear is where I like to keep mine and is the standard.
I know that Frank Roots setup has been killin it at West Coast and OCRC.
Go to that or the most recent Evans setup but I really believe that the battery back will get you the most rear grip faster than the little stuff like antisquat, camber links and toeblocks although they need to be in the ballpark no doubt.
Tried moving the battery just like that and it got worse! Big problem I am having is at the end of the new track layout straight is a dip before a 90 degree going to a downward staircase. Buggy just wants to swap ends no matter what I have tried so far. Moving the battery more reward just amplified the problem.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:08 AM
  #12504  
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Originally Posted by sprint5h
Been building diffs for 20 years... not the problem....

Just need the info I asked for please.

Thanks
The diffs I have seen were all very smooth and I'm hearing that the outdrives are wearing like iron.

I'd contact TLR because it sounds like your outdrives are not to standard. As for the gritty, are you having to tighten it till the spring is completely compressed? I have found that if the spring is bottomed out in any diff, it gets gritty.

See about getting those outdrives replaced the Losi stuff is know to wear well so I'd be willing to bet they would send you a new set.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:14 AM
  #12505  
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I run two cars, one with the stock diff / stock motor(still butter smooth) and a mod car with a BFast diff many many packs through on super high bite indoor clay and both cars out drives look new. I always use BFast diff lube on all my diffs. Both diffs are super smooth. You must have goten some bad parts.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:10 AM
  #12506  
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Default wickerbill?

I was wondering what wickerbill on the wing is.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:22 AM
  #12507  
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Originally Posted by sprint5h
I am hating the diff in my 22, I've rebuilt it with the B-fast kit, and its still pretty rough. Plus the outdrives have worn excessively, with only 4 days of racing on them...

I know a lot of guys have went back to the CR diff and was wondering what all has to be done, i.e. bearings, etc, to accomodate this.

Thanks
I use a AE thrust, diff screw/nut, and spring with ae carbide balls. Fixed my issues with the diff.

I had issues but not anymore.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:22 AM
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I'm on my 3rd diff in 2 months. Again, not looking for a solution to the 22 diff, just need info on what I need to do to put the XXX DIFF in. If you haven't done this please do not comment. Thanks
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by chaseman1
I was wondering what wickerbill on the wing is.
It's the rear lines on the wing.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:41 AM
  #12510  
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Originally Posted by sprint5h
I'm on my 3rd diff in 2 months. Again, not looking for a solution to the 22 diff, just need info on what I need to do to put the XXX DIFF in. If you haven't done this please do not comment. Thanks
You've been building diffs for 20 years and you don't know what you need or how to do it right ?
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