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Old 08-27-2011, 01:56 PM
  #9421  
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Originally Posted by Hansie2
Hello all,

I've had a 22 ever since it came out and I loved it on high grip tracks.
On slippery tracks (like my home track) I really didn't like it.
I had no rear grip at all and no matter what I did I couldn't get it to hook.
As a last resort I bolted on 100 grams of lead on the rear and that finally
resulted in a driveable car. But the extra weight made the car sluggish.
I read on a different forum that a guy reversed the rear arms on his mid motor
to generate extra rear grip. I figured that reversing the rear arms on a rear motor 22 would result in the motor hanging further out the back wich could
help with generating traction.
I tried it and in order for this to work you have to bolt the shocks on the
front of the shock tower and you need a spacer between the lower end of the shock and the A-arm. I removed 60 grams of lead from the rear.
The car was transformed, loads of traction and it still steered like a razor.
The drive shafts are sweeping forward a lot but I've ran it for 30 packs or
so and haven't had a problem. Has anyone else tried this and what did you
think of it?

Greetings

Hans
It means the car needs a shorter chassis for loose tracks. I heard there were some team guys running short chassis with a lot of success until Losi made them stop for some reason. It's too bad because b4's rule locally because the track is loose and everyone who bought a 22 sold it to go back to their b4's.
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Old 08-27-2011, 02:10 PM
  #9422  
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Default reversed arms on TLR 22

Hello all,

I live in Holland and my home track is slippery clay.
When we have a long dry spell (not that often ) the tracks dries
out and generates more grip.
I don't think it's the shortened wheel base that makes the difference.
I think that it is the way the weight shifts during accelleration with the reversed arms that generates more grip because the motor hangs out the back further (ball park figure is 10-12 mm further).
All the 22 guys at our track had problems, with this mod I won the latest
club race and ran consistent and fast laps. I can also run new front tyres now wich was a bad idea before the mod.
The car without this mod was also fast but terribly difficult to drive, I'm not
a beginner but my name isn't Evans either.
This trick allowed me to drive the car the way I wan't it and to do it for
6 minutes without a elevated heart rate.

Greetings

Hans
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Old 08-27-2011, 03:11 PM
  #9423  
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Running my 22 @ Airland Raceway!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3vgK...e_gdata_player
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Old 08-27-2011, 03:25 PM
  #9424  
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Maybe this will help with a shortened wheelbase and more rear bite.

http://www.akularacing.co.uk/portfolio/speartooth-22/
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Old 08-27-2011, 03:39 PM
  #9425  
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Originally Posted by trx-1racer
Maybe this will help with a shortened wheelbase and more rear bite.

http://www.akularacing.co.uk/portfolio/speartooth-22/
That looks rad but 155£ = $253. No 2wd is worth $500 for a roller.
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:01 PM
  #9426  
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Originally Posted by NewSkool
That looks rad but 155£ = $253. No 2wd is worth $500 for a roller.
I agree, but if you like everything else about the 22 and would rather not start over with a different car, then to some it might make sense. Would love to see what it will sell for here if one of the distributors brings the kit over.

Last edited by trx-1racer; 08-27-2011 at 04:02 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 08-27-2011, 05:04 PM
  #9427  
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What spare parts are a MUST to keep on hand?

Thanks
Eddy
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Old 08-27-2011, 06:10 PM
  #9428  
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Originally Posted by E-Eddy
What spare parts are a MUST to keep on hand?

Thanks
Eddy
Spindles...
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Old 08-27-2011, 06:21 PM
  #9429  
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Originally Posted by TWRC
Spindles...
what about arms, towers, rod ends, etc?

Eddy
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Old 08-27-2011, 06:55 PM
  #9430  
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Originally Posted by E-Eddy
what about arms, towers, rod ends, etc?

Eddy
Not that I've found but maybe someone else has had problems with something else....
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Old 08-27-2011, 08:07 PM
  #9431  
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I have cracked a rear arm, but I was able to do a whole race day without breaking it, so I would get some of those, I have also bent a turnbuckle so I would recommend the upgraded kit. Besides those, the car has been pretty bullet proof for me.
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:33 PM
  #9432  
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Just started putting my 22 together and only have two questions so far.

-What is the servo spacing for Savox servos?

-After assembling CVD's, the cvd is binding between the barrel and driveshaft. I've disassembled/reassembled a couple times still same problem. Am i doing something wrong or does it just need to wear in?
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Old 08-27-2011, 11:05 PM
  #9433  
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Originally Posted by bboard
Just started putting my 22 together and only have two questions so far.

-What is the servo spacing for Savox servos?
2mm for my 1251
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:31 AM
  #9434  
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Im running a 17.5T spec motor, no timing or booth and im having some trouble sorting out my gearing.

I have the standard 76T spur and a 31T pinion, that seems to the biggest i can fit in.

But i still top have enough top end speed
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:42 AM
  #9435  
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Originally Posted by VIP_SPEC
Im running a 17.5T spec motor, no timing or booth and im having some trouble sorting out my gearing.

I have the standard 76T spur and a 31T pinion, that seems to the biggest i can fit in.

But i still top have enough top end speed
Change to the ae slipper setup
Pads,disc, and spring and you can have more options.
I run 72x33 on a 17.5 with boost
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