Big_one

iTrader: (4)

Guys, i would like to have a neutral point a vue here. ... What will i gain or loose coming from a B4 to a TLR 22? I might change my ride

Eli

iTrader: (15)

Not that the other options that everybody else mentioned wont work but i think they are more of a bandaid than fixing the right way. I ran into the same issue, polished the screws and figured i should thread the screws into the arms with out the caster blocks in place and what i found was the two did not line up. Even with brand new arms it was the same. So what i did was ever so gently, maybe not so gently bent the arm slightly to compensate for this mis-alignment. You have to bend it further than it needs to be and hold it for about 15-20 seconds. Now my whole front end is super free and has no binding what-so-ever.
Ive been the go to guy for 22 concerns at my local track shortly after our track opened. Ive cured many 22's lol at my track and set the tq last wedneday night in mod. on our new layout. The main was a different story, and a well learned lesson/reminder about tires lol.

Eli

iTrader: (15)

Its what will you loose lol. Most people that come from a b4 ran about a half a second or more faster lap times. What you will gain is confidence off jumps, you will gain more cornerspeed as well as some extra durability. As well as many many other things and i nver would have thought this but id say metric is also an advantage.
Not everyones experiences have been pleasant but ive gotten two people at my track re-buy 22's after seeing mine go around that track and leave there b4's behind.
Yes i know alot of it can be driver and set-up but i believe a 22 will make any experienced 2wd buggy driver faster.
just do some home work and build it right and dont let the diff slip, i run mine tight like all the tlr drivers say to.
Possible dis-advantages are what you gain in the corners you may loose in straight line traction. Ive found the 22 is a little more tire dependent but ive also ran some tires that are practically bald so it also depends on your set-up and surface( i run on a med at best to med-low grip clay track that is getting better and better) but with the right throttle application its not as big of a deal.
The advantage that the 22 offers that i found with my b4 when i was running it was it felt so on edge to go at pace that it was almost gauranteed that you would make a mistake where with my 22 i can sorta kick back and let the car do its thing and still run just as fast but if i need to run faster i can push the car and it takes it with ease.
All this talk makes me want to go wear out some tires

Eli

iTrader: (15)

I will try to explain roll center in a manner that makes sense. Picture roll center as if you were putting a piece of say piano wire through the center of your car length wise and that would be the pivot point at which your car rolls from. So lets say you want to raise the inner ball studs, that would be like lowering that imaginary rod and creating the roll center to be lower. The advantages of that are that it will allow the car to lean more and put extra force on the outside tire but too much and the car can feel lazy. And vice versa, if you were to lower it or i believe shortening the rod as well lets say you wanted to run the outside hole on the front inner ball stud mount this would raise your roll center or atleast make it feel as if you did, which in turn will make the car more twitchy and fast to react to change but you shouldnt have a problem traction rolling. for along time i ran zero ball stud washers on the inside ball studs front and rear but after putting two back in the rear and going back to the longer front link with two inner washer it feels super dialed again.
My set-up and your set-up are probablly pretty close, im running basically evans set-up again and only bouncing back and fourth between spring rates and possibly rear camber link between the two tracks i frequent. Oh and yeah im also running a long pack and it works.

Joel Lagace

iTrader: (4)

I have built up 2 MM 22's for my friends and the Transmission has always felt buttery smooth when rotating the layshaft...

Building my own car last nite in RM config, and before i even started to bolt the gear box haves together i could feel a high spot in the gears as i rotated the layshaft. I tightened down the screws and no change. I double checked bearing placement and proper placement of the idler gear shaft.. no joy.... I fixed it by installing the other idler gear. My guess is one of the idler gears is not tru?? Has anyone experienced this? ITs the same sort of high spot my cougar had(that shummi explained in there instructions was totally normal for that car)

twalace

From a lot of what I am reading regarding handling setups I feel blessed! Built my car pretty much to stock specs and it handles great. Only thing I have done thus far is dialed in some more steering via my transmitter dual rate to about 70% and added some negative camber via the turnbuckles until I get some more caster blocks.

Hoping to make it to West Coast Raceway this weekend to see how it does in the JBRL...

gsxrjohnny

iTrader: (1)

I'm also trying to get some more rear traction, with the battery that far back how does it handle jumping? Going to try moving my battery back tonight and give it a try.

Slash and Burn

iTrader: (24)

I'm using a setup from our local Losi sponsored driver and the 22 sticks to the indoor clay track very well. The battery has 2 Losi foam pads behind it. I had tons of steering and plenty of traction.
Tires do matter and Calibers are not the answer to the tire question. I'm running red BK Bars in the rear and red Losi ribs in the front and I will need to trim/ghost the tires for racing, but the 22 did great even with full tread. I may also try a set of the new AKA ReBars super soft in the rear just to see if they do any better.

I'm happy to post this setup if anybody is interested.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

This is where I first put my short battery after changing from a long pack and the car was too hooked up in the rear, car pushed bigtime but when I moved the pack forward like the team guys (1 pad laid down and 1 upright) it was loose for me again, just like running the longer pack so I moved it back again and dialed in steering by going to HRC block, raising the spindles/lowering front of chassis and changing to 20* kick up while leaving the 5* caster.

Car works for me like this and never touch it between my 2 tracks, one hi bite clay and other mid to hi bite clay.
Tried small changes but always come back to this 100%.

Car jumps great, always did.

gsxrjohnny

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, what toe are you using with the HRC block? I run at West Coast so I'll give this a try.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

3.5 HRC.

Don't forget to shim the anti squat + 1mm (if you don't have the HRC anti squat shim set) to equal the same as what you had with the LRC.
The HRC block is 1mm higher.

I'm going to West Coast tonite, look me up if you like.

stipres

iTrader: (70)

After a couple of days at the track with the 22, I must say I am pretty pleased with the car. I did find myself needing more rear traction. Couple major changes recommended by a friend really helped lock in the rear; full fwd on the rear hubs and outer hole/middle row for rear outer ballstud. It was literally night n day difference in the amount of rear traction. This change helped me laydown the only other 16 lap qual (in our class) behind Eli Wed. night at SDRC

gsxrjohnny

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again, yeah I knew about adding the shim or getting the HRC anti squat kit. I'll be there tonight also so may hit you up for some info since I'm a super noob and need all the help I can get.

Eli

iTrader: (15)

Ahh so thats what you did eh. lol. Nice to have you down, hope to race with ya again soon.

L@gger

Maybe my question is pretty idiotic and I feel stupid but to measure camber do you have gauge parallel to axle of wheel or perpendicular to car longitudinal axis???

I am asking this because toe on buggy makes a big difference from setup sheets.