1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
06-25-2011, 10:27 AM
#7877
06-25-2011, 10:58 AM
#7878
Loose ballstuds, can tend to wobble themselves out especially the ones that have 2mm shims under them, check em all. Thinking of scrounging up some with longer threads. Kyosho maybe?
Rear axle bearings take a beating too, large and small ones.
That's about it for me and I've got several hours of runtime on mine.
06-25-2011, 03:04 PM
#7879
Ride height
Are you guys really running 24mm ride height in the front? I seem to have a hard time getting 24-25 mm out of the front end. I haven't cut the bladders, build em with no rebound, and have gone up 2 rates from the kit on the fr spring, and will have the collars all the way down, and still am lucky to get 22mm ride height. maybe binding up at the knuckle? I noticed that some of the setup sheets show 20-22mm but it seems to be on tracks with less bumps and jumps (European drivers)
I mostly run outdoor on rough tracks, so I run Corey's setup and it's great! (once I got 14 good carbide balls in the diff!)
I'm getting another kit and building it mid-motor to take to RC Factory in OH, and would like any suggestions that anyone could help out with that runs mid-motor.
Seems hard to sift thru all of the info even in just this one thread! Im computer retarded, is there a search available within the thread?
thanks again, Cpt America, Corey and the rest of the bunch on here, because this info is INVALUABLE! and CPT America's explanations are sooooo easy to comprehend, keep up the good work!
I mostly run outdoor on rough tracks, so I run Corey's setup and it's great! (once I got 14 good carbide balls in the diff!)
I'm getting another kit and building it mid-motor to take to RC Factory in OH, and would like any suggestions that anyone could help out with that runs mid-motor.
Seems hard to sift thru all of the info even in just this one thread! Im computer retarded, is there a search available within the thread?
thanks again, Cpt America, Corey and the rest of the bunch on here, because this info is INVALUABLE! and CPT America's explanations are sooooo easy to comprehend, keep up the good work!
06-25-2011, 03:38 PM
#7881
Seems hard to sift thru all of the info even in just this one thread! Im computer retarded, is there a search available within the thread?
thanks again, Cpt America, Corey and the rest of the bunch on here, because this info is INVALUABLE! and CPT America's explanations are sooooo easy to comprehend, keep up the good work!
thanks again, Cpt America, Corey and the rest of the bunch on here, because this info is INVALUABLE! and CPT America's explanations are sooooo easy to comprehend, keep up the good work!
If not, you've missed out.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-22-guide.html
06-25-2011, 03:57 PM
#7882
Now that you just jinxed yourself you should double check a couple/few simple, minor things that may give you a nip in the ass.
Loose ballstuds, can tend to wobble themselves out especially the ones that have 2mm shims under them, check em all. Thinking of scrounging up some with longer threads. Kyosho maybe?
Rear axle bearings take a beating too, large and small ones.
That's about it for me and I've got several hours of runtime on mine.
Loose ballstuds, can tend to wobble themselves out especially the ones that have 2mm shims under them, check em all. Thinking of scrounging up some with longer threads. Kyosho maybe?
Rear axle bearings take a beating too, large and small ones.
That's about it for me and I've got several hours of runtime on mine.
Last edited by ve8hhhdriver; 06-25-2011 at 03:58 PM. Reason: Grammer shpammer.
06-25-2011, 04:15 PM
#7883
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
So, I roached my new servo yesterday. Futaba BLS451. I just grazed a tube going through a straight section and that's all it took. I suspect it was a buildup of hits and tumbles I've taken since I got the car. This is the first problem I've had with the car though.
This is the first servo problem I've had in many, many, many years. I guess the claim by some people, that the 22 doesn't need a servo saver is out the window in my mind. My bet is "they" say you don't need a servo saver because they couldn't figure one out with the tight space and sliding rack system. Compromise I guess.
Has anyone had luck with figuring out a SS for their cars?
Also looking for recommendations on a new servo, possibly a low-profile. Are the Savox ones any good?
This is the first servo problem I've had in many, many, many years. I guess the claim by some people, that the 22 doesn't need a servo saver is out the window in my mind. My bet is "they" say you don't need a servo saver because they couldn't figure one out with the tight space and sliding rack system. Compromise I guess.
Has anyone had luck with figuring out a SS for their cars?
Also looking for recommendations on a new servo, possibly a low-profile. Are the Savox ones any good?
Last edited by Sean B.; 06-25-2011 at 04:27 PM.
06-25-2011, 04:30 PM
#7884
I'm using a Savox 1251MG and love it. I have them in two cars, with zero issues...but I rarely wreck and normally drive pretty smooth. I have yet to wear or break anything on my 22.
06-25-2011, 04:31 PM
#7885
So, I roached my new servo yesterday. Futaba BLS451. I just grazed a tube going through a straight section and that's all it took. I suspect it was a buildup of hits and tumbles I've taken since I got the car. This is the first problem I've had with the car though.
This is the first servo problem I've had in many, many, many years. I guess the claim by some people, that the 22 doesn't need a servo saver is out the window in my mind. My bet is "they" say you don't need a servo saver because they couldn't figure one out with the tight space and sliding rack system. Compromise I guess.
Has anyone had luck with figuring out a SS for their cars?
Also looking for recommendations on a new servo, possibly a low-profile. Are the Savox ones any good?
This is the first servo problem I've had in many, many, many years. I guess the claim by some people, that the 22 doesn't need a servo saver is out the window in my mind. My bet is "they" say you don't need a servo saver because they couldn't figure one out with the tight space and sliding rack system. Compromise I guess.
Has anyone had luck with figuring out a SS for their cars?
Also looking for recommendations on a new servo, possibly a low-profile. Are the Savox ones any good?
06-25-2011, 07:08 PM
#7888
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
hate to interrupt the current topic of conversation and not to distract from the 22 of which thread this is, but with AKA's new rebar tires coming out yesterday, does anyone know which compound is closest to proline's MC compound? Soft or super soft? I'm trying to find a good long wearing practice tire for the 22 because my MC suburbs don't last too long and I've been reading so many things on tires and what causes them to wear that I need the expert advice from this forum.
It seems like proline's MC compound is quite firm, yet everything I read on compound choice points to a really soft tire for an indoor track that's below 70* track temp, so how do clay compounds like MC work on colder track temps? Do the tred lengths play a role? suburb MC is the tire of choice at my tack, which I use and they do work very well, but notice that suburb tred length at new is very short. I'm just trying to understand why when everyone says softer tire for colder track and firmer compound for the hot outdoor tracks, a firm compound like MC works. I posted this question in another forum and was told to get super soft rebars for my med to sometimes high bite clay indoor track, but, it just seems contradictory. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
It seems like proline's MC compound is quite firm, yet everything I read on compound choice points to a really soft tire for an indoor track that's below 70* track temp, so how do clay compounds like MC work on colder track temps? Do the tred lengths play a role? suburb MC is the tire of choice at my tack, which I use and they do work very well, but notice that suburb tred length at new is very short. I'm just trying to understand why when everyone says softer tire for colder track and firmer compound for the hot outdoor tracks, a firm compound like MC works. I posted this question in another forum and was told to get super soft rebars for my med to sometimes high bite clay indoor track, but, it just seems contradictory. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
06-25-2011, 07:22 PM
#7889
I have used the new rebar tires, soft compound and they are very nice tires. They have more depth in the tread than the barcodes or suburbs so they last a little longer. They are close to M3(soft) and M4(super soft). The foams are awesome but they don't make 2wd fronts yet?!. Main gripe is the price, $14 for a set with no foams and the closed cell foams are $7 a pair. $21 a pair, about the same cost as a set of SCT tires. Ridiculous!
$7 for foams is also equal to any of the good foams available.
So price is the same as anyone else but they don't even waste your time with junk foams in the package with the tires.
06-25-2011, 07:45 PM
#7890
Tech Master
iTrader: (83)
can somebody please post their methods for setting the slipper clutch. I rebuilt my diff today (1st time) and I watched the sticky in the off road section repeatedly. I am confident (as confident as a first timer could be) the diff isn't slipping but never could get the front end to come off the table like in the video. I've added a shim between the spring and slipper hub because the red spacer was bottoming out before the spring was compressed fully. Any help/advice would be appreciated.
Darren
Darren