Gwoodrc

iTrader: (66)

Mine got alot of slop quick also and I was going to replace it but waiting on upgrades to come out. But on a bright note, I noticed that the slop it got in it only after about 3-4 races seems to be as bad as it got, hasn't gotten worse over the next 8-10 races, so now i'm thinking of just leaving it be.

lagcisco

iTrader: (40)

Diff nut stripped!

Actually, it just spins in it's holder.

How do I remove it?

Ruffy

iTrader: (3)

Use a small diameter drill bit, without the drill, or just a piece of wing wire and poke out the screw thru the nut. very easy.
Mine hasn't stripped yet, but this advice helped someone else.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

You can put a small dab of glue on the nut to glue it into the holder, wait til it dries and slowly turn it out.

lagcisco

iTrader: (40)

I've gone ahead and put the tranny together even with the plastic nut holder being stripped and all (the actual nut is not stripped).

Might try running mildly it when I get all the other parts in.

The fit is so tight, it's likely that i'd get some glue (I'm assuming you are talking about CA) all over the bolt and the locknut threads aswell, so I'm not sure if turning that bolt slowly will work, but I'll try anyways.

Ended up seeing that alot of other people have had this problem and also found a "tips" article having a precaution about this issue, but alas, to late for me.

Shadows

iTrader: (23)

the fix for the unwanted slop until TLR alu version is available:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9284948-post7745.html

and you can get it right here:
http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...GY&action=list

dbracn

iTrader: (28)

Could someone help me understand caster seperately of the kickup? So if i run less caster i have more steering through the infield. I was running 25/5 and i switched to 20/5 and it seeemed to smooth out the off power steering but what would i notice if i went higher or lower with caster.

Overall the total amount of kickup plus caster would give you more turn out/exit steering as it goes higher like 30 instead of 25?

mellen_mpz

iTrader: (9)

has anyone ever made a guide to setup basics that explains all the different setup options (Castor/camber/toe/kickup/etc...etc...etc)?

MarqueeRc

I wish...Something like a "guide for dummies" on basic setups for rc vehicles...

Wattser93

iTrader: (6)

http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/r...on-tuning.html

There's a little guide I found online quite awhile back. There's better guides out there, but I've found this one to be helpful for the basics.

syllag1969

iTrader: (4)

Here's one very good link i had found, maybe there are some other ones. There's also the Hudy set up book available(google it)

The specific one i read the most is on the top left ( RC Handbook )

http://www.petitrc.com/index.php?page=technic

Outtacontrol58

iTrader: (92)

I know that this is a very rookie question but I hate installing ball cups so here it is, when I am looking at the buggy from the rear which side should the lines be on all the links like the turn buckles etc. And is there a difference in which side screws in clockwise and counter clockwise, thanks and again I know it is a rookie question.

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

Pick a side and keep them all the same . there is no right or wrong side . When putting the ball cups on the line side is normal clockwise thread . Other side is reverse thread , counter clockwise .

losi8lunie

My TLR 22 “TA” (Turned Arms!) experience

I’ve been testing with the arms reversed for about a week now and having tested on dry short grass and raced both a rainy rutted grass track and a boiling hot high grip astro track over the weekend (just got to love the Uk weather!) - I think that in low grip conditions this works.

First of all I have changed the way the shocks were laid out from the post above by making a 15mm spacer and a 35mm bolt and running them in the normal angle so the shock is at the rear – this avoids binding and allows the camber link to be free of the shock spring and can now use all of the mounting positions.

It’s worth noting that the car is 14mm shorter than standard with this layout but the rear wheels are now nearer the centre line of the gearbox/motor. I have put about 2 hours on the car now and can’t see any wear on the driveshaft pins so far but will keep an eye on it.

Be warned though – if running less than medium wheelbase and/or with the rear shocks unscrewed 2 turns the drive shafts WILL pop out. Running long wheelbase on a big jump track I had no issues

On dry grass, the car feels really planted compared to the normal mid motor setup – I can just bury the throttle and it will drive off the corner like a rear motor with no oversteer even while keeping steering lock on. Going into corners the inside wheel wanted to lift and I did grip roll a few times with Dboots on – I changed to Schumacher yellow spikes and this problem went away.

Saturday for the race I ran with Ballistic buggy greens and Schumacher yellow fronts – the track was REALLY BUMPY and I had to raise the ride height to 26mm (normally run 22mm on astro) all round but I was able to power the car through the rutty sections ok and didn’t really lose traction. The steering was good but could have done with a bit more but I was running position 1 on the front and should have gone to position 2 instead. At the end of the meeting my friend had a go that normally races his 22 in rear motor and instantly said it feels easier to drive than his car and he could push it more. My other friend who had abandoned his 22 to go back to his B4 also said it feels a lot better to drive. The rear motor guy will be racing in this configuration next week at the regional event.

On the Sunday morning at the astro track it was a bit damp and the car felt ok on Schumacher greens and ballistic buggy rears but in the afternoon in 31 degree temperature I ran the car in this configuration but was struggling with the way it jumped and landed. The car generated too much grip and even after going to cut staggers in the front and worn Schumacher rears it was hard to drive and I kept making mistakes which gave me a bad run

After 3 rounds I changed back to my normal setup and went faster with less mistakes so I think for high grip astro the standard mid motor setup is better as it seems to land smoother without wanting to step out. To change between the 2 takes about 10-15 minutes and I think for a changeable day this is a good option to have. Hope this helps any of the people who are struggling with the mid motor car and for what it takes to try its worth a go in my opinion!

Chad Smith

Is everyone running the 2mm shock limiter on the front shocks? The manual is a little confusing, but inside of the
Manual it says "2mm shock limiter" are they counting that 2mm for both front shocks? So basically are they say run 1mm on each shock to have a total of 2mm on both front shocks?

I forgot to put the limiter on the front shocks when I was building it, but havent had any promblems with it so far.