Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Jeremy, coming out of a tight 180... and looking for more traction on the rear tires when you get back ON-throttle, requires you load the rear tires more. when you load a tire, is when it develops traction. How do you load the rear tires? You need greater (and maybe quicker) shift of weight from the front of the car, to the rear. The two best ways to do that are a) more front droop, (which you say you've done), and b) less anti-squat (more squat). Combined, they will allow the maximum amount of traction to shift to the rear of the car ON-throttle (not off).

So to test, I would go down to 1mm limiters in the front, and drop all the way down to 0 anti-squat in the rear. Now, you may loose TOO much steering, which is ok as the test is to try and gain traction in the rear on-throttle... from there you could go back up to 1 deg antisquat if needed. But dropping to 0 will maximize rear weight transfer on-throttle.

Also, lighter oil in both front and back will increase the speed at which the weight transfer takes place. However, changing oil weight also affects how the car behaves right to left... and jumping... so that would be a later resort.

That won't help unfortunately. Rear droop only affects weight transfer to the FRONT of the car, OFF-throttle (entering a corner), and works in conjunction with front kickup. (opposite of anti-squat)

FLHX1550

iTrader: (11)

Looking to trade a very nice 8-T 2.0 for a 22.

I'm actually moving and where I am going, Nitro is pretty much dead.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...r-wtt-wts.html

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

Jermey send me a PM... since i seem to be the only guy running a mod 22 at Dave's i have found fwd bite (and i have tried ton's of set ups and suggestions)

SAGISI

iTrader: (27)

Dustin also told me he screwed the rear shock ends all the way up. Not sure if that was his final winning setup though.

Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

If I was you Jeremy and was searching for a little more forward traction the first thing I would do is rear hubs spaced forward, but careful not to go crazy forward with it, because you will lose rotation.

chuckinator

I have found my car to gain more forward bit the farther back I move the hubs. It also seems to smooth the car out throughout the corner. Making the corner more rounded and not so twitchy in and loose out.

chuckinator

Jeremy I have found that with the 22 the lighter you go in the rear of the car via shocks the more the car rotates in and out of the corner. The stiffer I make my car statically the more rear bite I gain. Try some of these as I found these work for me:

-move lower shock mount to outside hole (may need to go down in spring)
-leave lower shock in inner hole and go up in spring
-add more pack to the shock
-lengthen the rear camberlink
-add more rear toe via the block(moving the hubs forward slightly adds toe but doenst really help forward bite, only makes the car act wierd in the center of the corner)

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I find that moving the rear hubs all the way forward gave me two things:

1) I gained straight line on-power rear traction, due to more weight hanging out the back of the car (which equates to less ON-throttle steering)

2) GAINED rotation neut-throttle AND off-throttle, due to shorter wheelbase.

Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

But...Bone angle will also play a key role in this. I agree with Chuck, that depending on the conditions, driver, other setup factors, etc. moving the hubs back can actually increase rear grip and forward traction. I don't think this tuning option is 100% clear either way. I would start middle, go all the way forward, then all the way back. If you like forward or rear better, then try going back towards the middle by 1mm to see if this is hitting the sweet spot. If you need more, check how you have your arm shimmed (front or rear) and you may be able to adjust this also.

Corey Bernardo

iTrader: (10)

Frank Congrats on the Short Course Overall win this past weekend!!! Won in great fashion, awesome!!!

Mini-Mod

What difference is there going from 10 to 5 degree caster blocks?

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Low speed steering is increased (off power) That is what it felt like to me.

Sterling Racer

had too quote it, thanks

Gregcool

Hi guys iv read the sticky about rebuilding and setting the diff and slipper. But there is a point where i just cant get my head around it,
You have the diff in the car, and i tighten up tje slipper clutch. I hold the left wheel. And the slipper gear. Then turn the right wheel.
But what kind of tightness am i looking for. It goes from smooth, easy to turn , to not much harder to turn with some effort smooth. Which it just feels to loose. But the next stage of turning it gets stiffer to turn, but it has a slight grinding sound. But is stiffer to turn . So i go back slightley tp smooth turning again. But tje point betwen smooth and slight tight gind sound is so minimal, but the far end of smooth turn , just seems to loose. So am i suppose to have a tight turning with some kind of grind feeling , or should it just be only smooth, if so i feel its to soft to be right. I have ceramic balls in the diff.
Please help as its driving me mad and do not want to damage anything
Thanks
Greg