offroad dude

iTrader: (31)

Thanks..

buzzbomber

This may be a silly question, but here goes: In putting my 22 together, I noticed the manual appears to show the diff being inserted in the transmission with the nut and spring on the slipper side (right) of the car, so that the diff is adjusted from the left. The enlargement appears to be showing the hex head looking at the outdrive cup from the left side. Is this correct? It seems to me that cars I've built in the past were set up so that the diff and slipper adjustments were both made from the left side. Which brings up another question - does it matter?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Losi puts the adjustment screw opposite the spur so you have access to adjust the diff. Losi has put there diffs in both ways. The electric diffs always have the screw head on the left side of the car. The NT gas truck had it on the right side of the car. It does not matter as far as the performance of the diff. It is a convienence thing based on acess to adjust the diff in the car.

buzzbomber

Thanks, makes sense, actually. Was overthinking the issue, and mistakenly correlated it to my last 4wd build. Been a while since I had a 2wd buggy, and this is my first Losi. This diff appears to need to be set much tighter than the pan cars and DB-01 I'm used to in order to avoid slipping. Appears to be normal from reading through the thread though.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

My go at the Losi stock diff parts had the diff butter smooth but I was unable to get the diff tightened down enough to keep it from "barking".
I worked my way tighter and tighter while working the diff to keep it from dimpling the rings or flat spotting the balls.
I felt that the stock screw ran out of threads and then was trying to make the nut slip in the plastic holder which was CA glued as advised.
I tried to rely on the slipper to protect the diff but it didn't work out that way.
After hearing it bark a couple times the diff was a loss.
I'm confident that if the screw was allowed to snug down enough to prevent the initial barks that the diff would still be good.

Diff builds are not that difficult to do and break in should not be as tricky as we can make it out to be.
Just need to check it often when first built with your method of choice and make sure it never gets a chance to slip.
If it slips it dies.
I've done one rebuild with the AE screw and diff balls and have run at least 8 to 10 days of practice and racing and I feel it is finally time to go thru it again since it feels dry but still not crunchy.

-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

I dont understand why people think it's Losi's fault there diff is not built properly. It takes some time to get ball diffs down just like anything. Sure you can get it together and get by but for it to be super smooth and set perfect it takes practice. I have been running my 22 for over 20 packs now and my diff is still smooth nad perfect. It's not the Losi product it's the builder. Sorry.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Your post assumes that none of these drivers used B4's or XXX's prior to buying their 22. If the diff balls aren't carbide then these problems should almost be expected. Glad to hear your diff is perfect.

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

Pretty bold statement there wheelman. Suffice to say that everyone with a 22 diff problem is an idiot?

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

**unsubscribed**

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

Dont recall anyone being called an idiot but i will say where is there a better chance of there being a variable. Parts that are mass produced by a machine or the user? Do the math.

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

Wheelman Brett, your list of parts is in...give us a call if you'd like to pick them up.

Just checked in a slew of 22 parts. Got the new 20 degree brass kick angle shim too.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Unless you build it mid motor, in which the diff bolt head adjustment side is on the passenger side.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

im sick and tired of hearing this... straight up.

Listen, I have built 1000 diffs over the many years running RC... onroad, offroad, you name it. I know EXCTlY how to prep them.. how to clean them.. how to gradually break them in... how to properly set their final tension (each car is different), and how to make sure that your slipper is letting go before the diff slips.

When I built my 22, I built my diff PERFECTLY.... I set my initial tension super light, just barely enough to get diff action. Then I did your typical "one wheel spin" break in on each side. Then I tightened the diff down half turn, and did it again. ... then again... then again. After broken in nicly, I set my diff to EXACTLY where it needs to be set, which is 1/8th turn back from full, just like the manual says. The diff felt WONDERful on the bench.

I ran TWO packs through the car, without the diff slipping once, and afterwards, the diff felt like a 6 month old B4 diff with 50 or 100 runs on it. I practically had to rebuild it before its first main!

So, I rebuilt the diff the next day with my carbides and ceramics from bfast. Sanded the rings, cleaned, reprepped, and re-broke in just like I did the first time. I have 10 or 12 race nights on it now and it still feels PERFECT.

So... was it me? or the diff components?

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Capt.Americadude, you actually paid attention to another one of these self proclaimed perfect diff builders?
Shame on you.
You and me combined couldn't equal the talents of one of these guys when it comes to building diffs, we're not worthy.
All we can do is try to drive around them if we get a chance and if we've got the skills.

Never bagged on Losi but the fact that a few diff components slipped thru the quality control procedure has a few a little bummed and I'm sure they'll get that taken care of ASAP.

Love this car.

-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

Um...not that bold...get over it! your funny!!
Sweet one complainer down!!!
I appreciate it! I got most of them already but ill head over and see what you got for me!
I bet you have spelled exactly 1000 times as well but you still get that wrong. "EXCTlY"