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Awesome thanks so much guys I might actually get this car done tonight. I never even considered using my nut driver on those.
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Gitter done. And if you need anything this thread is by far the best one for 44 info. :nod:
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Yeah I've read it all twice. I decided on a 7.5 turn motor and 18t pinion gear to start. I am still not sure what batteries to buy however, I will mostly be bashing this with friends in my area and was considering a 6000Mah 35C battery. My question is about what can I expect from it runtime wise? Also do you think it will provide plenty of punch? I am just getting back into RC I haven't owned one since my Avante in '89. I was 10 at the time and it seemed like a bullet, of course it probably didn't even do 20mph. I am so buying one of the re-released ones but first I wanted something that could keep up with my friends rides.
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Originally Posted by forcewave
(Post 10508841)
Yeah I've read it all twice. I decided on a 7.5 turn motor and 18t pinion gear to start. I am still not sure what batteries to buy however, I will mostly be bashing this with friends in my area and was considering a 6000Mah 35C battery. My question is about what can I expect from it runtime wise? Also do you think it will provide plenty of punch? I am just getting back into RC I haven't owned one since my Avante in '89. I was 10 at the time and it seemed like a bullet, of course it probably didn't even do 20mph. I am so buying one of the re-released ones but first I wanted something that could keep up with my friends rides.
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING
(Post 10507717)
I would start with a 17p. Build the diffs with all 6 shims on the gear side and over grease the diff gear with 5 spots of Ae diff grease. It will break in and free up pretty quick so if it feels tight don't worry. The diff gears will hold up longer with that kind of nuclear power your running. Start with the kit set up and add the 87gram ballast between the packs. Should be all about tire selection from there. If the track is loose then run the B option hub and the inner top deck ball stud hole. Good luck. Keep us updated on the build....
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Originally Posted by TheHillsPancake
(Post 10509037)
haha nuclear power.. i like that one, soo im guessing the 5.5 is to much for the b44.1? i could still order a 6.5 if that will make the diff last longer but is there a big difference between 5.5 and 6.5?
WARP SPEED IN THE STRAIGHTS>>>>>> |
Originally Posted by UN4RACING
(Post 10508891)
35c will be fine. I would guess 15min run time if geared conservative. 15 minutes to be safe that you don't ruin your battery. I bet you could push 20.
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i put my b 44.1 up for sell at the new hobby shop in town. thanks for the help i need a losi 22 t to go with my 22.
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Originally Posted by UN4RACING
(Post 10509521)
If you're power plant is smooth on the bottom end run a 3.5. My new kits 8 Weeks old and I ran a 5.5 and a 6.5. Still haven't chucked a gear and the diffs are still pretty smooth. Slipper setting and good trigger control is all it takes. You don't need a lot in the infield but all the power you can have in reserve comes in great for the straights. Power up.:nod:
WARP SPEED IN THE STRAIGHTS>>>>>> |
Does anyone want to share some pics of their creative electronics and wiring layouts in the B44.1? I'm getting ready to install everything so any help would be appreciated.
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Wow, that was quick!! I was trying to figure out if it was best to run the motor wires over or under the top deck. I'm also trying to find a short sensor cable, any ideas?
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Originally Posted by nhraman
(Post 10511715)
Does anyone want to share some pics of their creative electronics and wiring layouts in the B44.1? I'm getting ready to install everything so any help would be appreciated.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...3/6a285ac1.jpg |
Originally Posted by Grouchman
(Post 10511779)
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Originally Posted by forcewave
(Post 10509927)
Wow is that all I'll be able to get out of a set of batteries? I figured I'd at least be able to bash it for 30 minutes or so.
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