thenewpede

Hey jdawg was @ track yesterday. If your talking about jump in front of drivers stand (the single before the lttle table top) they redid it. Much better now. Drove a guys 10tt there and the thing is awesome, gotta get me one. He was running 27.5 frt and 25 bk. later

Farmer_John

iTrader: (3)

SWEET!! Guys in Mi who have TTs!! I'm moving home sometime over the next couple of months and was told (incorrectly) that "no one is running TTs in Michigan".

Glad those guys over on "Extreme" were wrong!

If you're running the stock pistons and need more pack for your track, get the option pistons. 1, 2 and 3 hole. The truck is very tunable, you just need a day at the track on race conditions.

jdawg

Yo whats up, Ya there is quite a few of out hear in my area runnin the 10tt, bunch if my friends got one, just in my group is bout 6 and its not even 3 weeks old yet, so alot of pepole are seeing the 10tt and are loveing it, and yes very tunable.

jdawg

Did you drive my truck? I was there all day on sunday, and I do love the tt the most fun in 1/10th scale I think,

ses601

iTrader: (29)

hey guys, i need some opinions here

so i just got my tt together, castle sct (3800) setup, 15t pinion/stock spur, venom 4000/20c 2s batt, and a savox 1258.

motor is barely warm to the touch, esc is maybe 120-130ish, and i lose the servo every once in a while, or if i turn quickly back and forth without any trhottle. i'm guessing the esc can't handle the servo

so here's the qeustion: what's your opinion on the cheapest fix? throw a 1015 servo in there? esc?

THANKS in advance

Toiffel

iTrader: (52)

Cheapest fix is get the Castle BEC $20.00

ses601

iTrader: (29)

im on it THANK YOU

Whosold

Same problem with cheap JR servo was getting brown outs installed castle Bec problem solved.

Used Up Junk

iTrader: (7)

ses601, My TT is set up exactly like yours. I heard the Savox Servos were power hungry so I threw a Spektrum glitchbuster in mine when I put it together and have had no problems!

jdawg

Hay guys, Just want to say I run the futaba 3305 servo and its only $32.00 it is perfect in the 10tt and fast enought to get you in trouble,dont have any problems at all, just wanted to let you guys know.

jrz93

iTrader: (9)

Its not the servo ron its the castle.ofna had issues when testing the tt and in our experience with starting the class at the barn all castle esc had brownouts even with the bec.most got rid of them.I wish I knew that the past weeks I was at family.

Misfit138

iTrader: (110)

@jrz93 what tires and wheels are they running at family?

ses601

iTrader: (29)

thanks guys, i appreciate all the advice - except from ron

-R2-

iTrader: (4)

OFNA black shirts for sale on For Sale Thread.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...rts-black.html

turb06le240

iTrader: (14)

Hey guys, Im going to start the ultimate 10tt build, any ideas for hop ups, heres the ideas I have so far...

Starting with a Bump lightened chassis

-STRC-
Delrin spur
CNC Hex adapters
Graphite center upper plate
CNC stand offs
CNC front steering plate
CNC center diff bulkhead
CNC RR carriers
scrt10 bulkhead complete

-SNR-
Graphite servo plate
Graphite shock towers front and rear
Graphite lower plate

-Lunsford-
Titanium shock mounts
Front and rear turnbuckles
Servo to saver turnbuckle

Proline powerstroke shocks
AE long shock bushings
Elite RC motor mount
CVDs in the rear
SS screws
CNC Chassis braces front and rear
CNC Hinge plates all 4
Aluminum diff pins
DE skid plates
downforce black wing

Plus Im going to put bearings in the front steering, and install 6mm balls with screws through them on the front turnbuckle assemblies {also I'll use the entrie scrt bellcrank set up, I made bushing/spacers that fit in the bottom and lower the ackerman bar to clear the drive cup, it makes the front end silly smooth.

And I had to do a lot of playing around with the shocks to figure out the best way to build them for the tt, but the finished product turned out perfect and simple... {now I can do it in 20 minutes, but it costs a little over $100 to do it correctly...

The diffs, were easy, Ive done them a bunch of times, I coat the gaskets with indian head and double them up {the diffs are a little tight with one gasket when there new}, then I polish the thin washer that goes between the pin and oring, and fit the case with the drive cup by machining the rear face of the case {where the bearing sits} a small bit, kind of a touch and feel until its rite, taking off very small amounts at a time...and lastly I used 5000 weight in the rear and center and 1000 in the front... The diffs are super quiet and smooth...

Well, thats where I am so far, I got the shocks set up {tryed them on a friends tt for a weekend}, 3 brand new diffs built, and the steering done}, let me know if there is anything you can think of that I missed...