My brother ran one in his non worlds B4.1 and it fit, just fit, but it did fit. And the CC stuff will work fine, no reason to drop more money unless you want to

lrp is top of the line you will not be disappointed and their customer service is phenomenal

What he said

It will also give you a little more on power traction
I run *2 . 2.5 toe block and *0 hubs

I'm only giving MY honest opinion here but Castle is for bashers, novak motors don't seem to hold power for very long, tekin seems a tad on the slow side too. Now all that could be my set-up, but that is just what I have found. LRP has great customer service and there esc's are pretty bullet proof unless you get one of that bad batch that was just out. Now I am partial to this brand but if you want bang for your buck try Viper. Trinity D3 motors are fast too.

the edge that lrp has is more tuning options there smoother and just very well known would you ever see a pro running castle stuff not trying to be mean about this but lrp is obviously better than castle creations.

Just because pro's do not run it does not mean it cant be competitive, maybe this guys only racing club races. If CC stuff is what you have try it before selling it. I find that if you have working gear (no matter what brand) it normaly comes down to driver skill. The fast guys at my local track could kick my but with a manual speed control

My set up
Im running 2 degree camber on all 4 tires
Shock weight is 30 front 27.5 rear
Springs front brown rear green
Shock positions rear: Tower inside axle outside, front: tower inside axle outside
1/2 oz behind battery 1/4 oz next to reciever 1/2 oz in front
What does ajusting the ballstud positions do and mines a rtr
It pushes really hard on power and needs more rear traction at points when going fast.
Also how in the world to people run like 90% brake i had mine on 40% and slide out really easy when just barley tapping the brakes so i run at 25% now
By the way im just getting into the sport so dont know to much about setups
Ive seen some people put the c hub for more traction would that be a good idea
This is the track i race at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9DSBxBF8Zo

before you do anything else. Move the rear shocks in on the arm and then make sure your shocks (all 4) have 2 limiters in them. Start there.

Radio setup will vary according to your electronics but rule of thumb is higher bite = higher brake epa. Lower bite = lower brake epa. Basically you have to lower it so you don't spin out when you grab the brakes hard. Start running drag brake. It will make you faster (is what everyone tells me anyway lol). I myself am just starting to run it so I'm not that experienced with it yet. I picked a setting of 5 to start on my LRP SXX v3 with 3.0 software. My epa on my brakes will be 80-90 depending on the track. I run it as high as possible without spinning out.

EDIT: also run 1/2 a deg of camber all the way around. maybe 1 tops.

I have several sizes of limiters so which one though

.030..they are black

Ya definitely go with the LRP ESC. The best ESC in my opinion, and dont even want to compare to a CC. I would go with the reedy motor. They are known to be slower than the LRP motor, but are known to be smoother, and stay cooler. Also practically none of the pros run them now. Maifield switched form lrp to Reedy

actually alot of the pros are switching from reddy to the lrp x-20 lrp is always one step ahead of the game. look at the pics closely from the reedy race

the .30 is the smallest and you will want to use 2 of them the .60 is bigger and is like using 2 .30s and the largest is .90 and that is like using 3 of the .30s I would recconend use a .90 or 3 .30s in the front and then .60 limiter in each of the rear shocks.