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Old 01-24-2012 | 10:11 PM
  #10306  
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I run on a med to high bite track(where the reedy race is being held)and I'm running yellow bb in rear and reds in front,how many shock limiters is standard on this car?3/2?
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Old 01-24-2012 | 10:13 PM
  #10307  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
if only I could practice what I preach
hehe. I need a lot of track time. I have a total of 8 cars/trucks to tune, lol
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Old 01-24-2012 | 10:17 PM
  #10308  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
I run on a med to high bite track(where the reedy race is being held)and I'm running yellow bb in rear and reds in front,how many shock limiters is standard on this car?3/2?
If you run outer hole bottom on front and inner hole bottom on the back, 2 limiters.

Go look at Cav's Finnland setup and that will get you all the info you need.

And reds are pretty soft for a front spring, especially for high bite. I would try silver front or orange front. Check with one of the fast guys there and I'm sure they will help you out.

FYI, silver is 3.2 orange is 2.9 and red is 2.5.
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Old 01-24-2012 | 10:23 PM
  #10309  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
If you run outer hole bottom on front and inner hole bottom on the back, 2 limiters.

Go look at Cav's Finnland setup and that will get you all the info you need.

And reds are pretty soft for a front spring, especially for high bite. I would try silver front or orange front. Check with one of the fast guys there and I'm sure they will help you out.

FYI, silver is 3.2 orange is 2.9 and red is 2.5.
Yea red/yellow is pretty standard at the track where we go.it's not blue groove high bite but a wet clay I guess more med bite,I'm on my I phone so it won't allow me to pull up the setup sheets
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Old 01-24-2012 | 10:32 PM
  #10310  
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Quick... refresh me on shock shaft and shock body lengths. Im installing those downtravel limiters like we talked about in bottom loading V2 threaded bodies... but im still running the original length B4 unob shafts F/R. Were the lengths ever updated?

It would be nice if they retool the B4 that they offer a chassis and arms with 'droop screws" like they do in the 1/8th cars/trucks. I hate taking shocks apart to add/reduce internal limiters...
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Old 01-24-2012 | 10:34 PM
  #10311  
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adding droop screws to the b4.1 would be killer!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-24-2012 | 10:38 PM
  #10312  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
Yea red/yellow is pretty standard at the track where we go.it's not blue groove high bite but a wet clay I guess more med bite,I'm on my I phone so it won't allow me to pull up the setup sheets
is it red kyosho in the front? that seems more reasonable on wet clay.

because red/gold kyosho sounds alot more feasible then red/yellow losi lol
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Old 01-24-2012 | 10:39 PM
  #10313  
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve
Seems like you been saying that for weeks now
yeah i know... not like it really matters since i havent been able to get a saturday off in over a month /qq
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Old 01-24-2012 | 11:02 PM
  #10314  
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Originally Posted by Odin544
Read below.
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
yeah Tyler is spot on. The reason you do this is because you are lowering the outter link by .060. So in order to keep the same roll center, you lower the inner link by the same amount.

If you have a set of C towers (the carbon fiber one) and a set of A, you can hold them both up sandwiched together so that the bottom mounting holes match up. Then look through the ball stud holes and you will see that they are lower than the A.
Now maybe I am not understanding right. Wouldnt shaving those parts down raise my roll center not lower it, like counter productive of having washers already under the ballstud? And the post mentioned by Odin, says that raises the roll center. Why would I want to raise it. I have added washers in the rear to roll center? Sorry, maybe I'm just confused.
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Old 01-25-2012 | 12:03 AM
  #10315  
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Quick... refresh me on shock shaft and shock body lengths. Im installing those downtravel limiters like we talked about in bottom loading V2 threaded bodies... but im still running the original length B4 unob shafts F/R. Were the lengths ever updated?

It would be nice if they retool the B4 that they offer a chassis and arms with 'droop screws" like they do in the 1/8th cars/trucks. I hate taking shocks apart to add/reduce internal limiters...
The v1 and v2 shock bodies are both .89... No change

The original b4 front shafts were .71

B4.1 front shafts are .80

If I'm running the front shocks mounted inside tower/outside arm I run 3 limiters... You would just use zero

If I'm inside/inside... I use 4 limiters, you'd use 1

Middle/ outside I'd use 2 limiters, you'd have to unscrew the eyelet 1 full turn.
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Old 01-25-2012 | 12:46 AM
  #10316  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
The v1 and v2 shock bodies are both .89... No change

The original b4 front shafts were .71

B4.1 front shafts are .80

If I'm running the front shocks mounted inside tower/outside arm I run 3 limiters... You would just use zero

If I'm inside/inside... I use 4 limiters, you'd use 1

Middle/ outside I'd use 2 limiters, you'd have to unscrew the eyelet 1 full turn.
this is gold information those dudes from Indy are on top of things,to bad they are from Indy
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Old 01-25-2012 | 01:01 AM
  #10317  
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I thought i read something about the B4 being made to run outside front arms and inside rear arms. What i mean is as long as the lower shock mount is outside front and inside rear, moving the top of the shock around does not change the droop..going to the opposite lower holes is a whole nother' story.
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Old 01-25-2012 | 01:19 AM
  #10318  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
is it red kyosho in the front? that seems more reasonable on wet clay.

because red/gold kyosho sounds alot more feasible then red/yellow losi lol
I am running white front and white rears on Kyosho BB... Because that's what I got on the shocks when i bought them lol. I was very happy with how it drove. Lots of steering and grip. I run on hard packed clay, starts wet dries a bit the re-water before the mains
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Old 01-25-2012 | 02:24 AM
  #10319  
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Originally Posted by jirish617
Now maybe I am not understanding right. Wouldnt shaving those parts down raise my roll center not lower it, like counter productive of having washers already under the ballstud? And the post mentioned by Odin, says that raises the roll center. Why would I want to raise it. I have added washers in the rear to roll center? Sorry, maybe I'm just confused.
I think you are confused.
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Old 01-25-2012 | 02:48 AM
  #10320  
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Originally Posted by Odin544
I think you are confused.
so lowering the inner ballstud will not raise the roll center?
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