RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Go look at Cav's Finnland setup and that will get you all the info you need.
And reds are pretty soft for a front spring, especially for high bite. I would try silver front or orange front. Check with one of the fast guys there and I'm sure they will help you out.
FYI, silver is 3.2 orange is 2.9 and red is 2.5.
If you run outer hole bottom on front and inner hole bottom on the back, 2 limiters.
Go look at Cav's Finnland setup and that will get you all the info you need.
And reds are pretty soft for a front spring, especially for high bite. I would try silver front or orange front. Check with one of the fast guys there and I'm sure they will help you out.
FYI, silver is 3.2 orange is 2.9 and red is 2.5.
Go look at Cav's Finnland setup and that will get you all the info you need.
And reds are pretty soft for a front spring, especially for high bite. I would try silver front or orange front. Check with one of the fast guys there and I'm sure they will help you out.
FYI, silver is 3.2 orange is 2.9 and red is 2.5.
Quick... refresh me on shock shaft and shock body lengths. Im installing those downtravel limiters like we talked about in bottom loading V2 threaded bodies... but im still running the original length B4 unob shafts F/R. Were the lengths ever updated?
It would be nice if they retool the B4 that they offer a chassis and arms with 'droop screws" like they do in the 1/8th cars/trucks. I hate taking shocks apart to add/reduce internal limiters...
It would be nice if they retool the B4 that they offer a chassis and arms with 'droop screws" like they do in the 1/8th cars/trucks. I hate taking shocks apart to add/reduce internal limiters...
because red/gold kyosho sounds alot more feasible then red/yellow losi lol
yeah Tyler is spot on. The reason you do this is because you are lowering the outter link by .060. So in order to keep the same roll center, you lower the inner link by the same amount.
If you have a set of C towers (the carbon fiber one) and a set of A, you can hold them both up sandwiched together so that the bottom mounting holes match up. Then look through the ball stud holes and you will see that they are lower than the A.
If you have a set of C towers (the carbon fiber one) and a set of A, you can hold them both up sandwiched together so that the bottom mounting holes match up. Then look through the ball stud holes and you will see that they are lower than the A.
Quick... refresh me on shock shaft and shock body lengths. Im installing those downtravel limiters like we talked about in bottom loading V2 threaded bodies... but im still running the original length B4 unob shafts F/R. Were the lengths ever updated?
It would be nice if they retool the B4 that they offer a chassis and arms with 'droop screws" like they do in the 1/8th cars/trucks. I hate taking shocks apart to add/reduce internal limiters...
It would be nice if they retool the B4 that they offer a chassis and arms with 'droop screws" like they do in the 1/8th cars/trucks. I hate taking shocks apart to add/reduce internal limiters...
The original b4 front shafts were .71
B4.1 front shafts are .80
If I'm running the front shocks mounted inside tower/outside arm I run 3 limiters... You would just use zero
If I'm inside/inside... I use 4 limiters, you'd use 1
Middle/ outside I'd use 2 limiters, you'd have to unscrew the eyelet 1 full turn.
The v1 and v2 shock bodies are both .89... No change
The original b4 front shafts were .71
B4.1 front shafts are .80
If I'm running the front shocks mounted inside tower/outside arm I run 3 limiters... You would just use zero
If I'm inside/inside... I use 4 limiters, you'd use 1
Middle/ outside I'd use 2 limiters, you'd have to unscrew the eyelet 1 full turn.
The original b4 front shafts were .71
B4.1 front shafts are .80
If I'm running the front shocks mounted inside tower/outside arm I run 3 limiters... You would just use zero
If I'm inside/inside... I use 4 limiters, you'd use 1
Middle/ outside I'd use 2 limiters, you'd have to unscrew the eyelet 1 full turn.
I thought i read something about the B4 being made to run outside front arms and inside rear arms. What i mean is as long as the lower shock mount is outside front and inside rear, moving the top of the shock around does not change the droop..going to the opposite lower holes is a whole nother' story.
I am running white front and white rears on Kyosho BB... Because that's what I got on the shocks when i bought them lol. I was very happy with how it drove. Lots of steering and grip. I run on hard packed clay, starts wet dries a bit the re-water before the mains
Now maybe I am not understanding right. Wouldnt shaving those parts down raise my roll center not lower it, like counter productive of having washers already under the ballstud? And the post mentioned by Odin, says that raises the roll center. Why would I want to raise it. I have added washers in the rear to roll center? Sorry, maybe I'm just confused.





