Community
Wiki Posts
Search

RC10B4.1 FT/WC

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-09-2011, 08:04 AM
  #8341  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
 
20 SMOKE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: HVR_ WEEKI WACHEE FL
Posts: 10,437
Trader Rating: 103 (100%+)
Default

i think where he gets confused is the raising and lowering term think of it as increasing and decreasing the amount of roll
20 SMOKE is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 08:14 AM
  #8342  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
 
skrichter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 894
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aeRayls
Cav was using kyosho BB springs. White front gold rear. He had the new PL hex wheels. They're badass!
White KYO front BB - 3.72 spring rate
Gold KYO rear BB - 2.50 spring rate

Those spring rates seem quite a bit different than what is run on the TLR22 and/or the standard AE spring rates. I would love to know what he ran for pistons/oil.
skrichter is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 08:16 AM
  #8343  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
 
racer1812's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,488
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jake S
ooo ima be this douchbag...

NUH UH!!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Left-Right-GT2
my bad..

wow, douchbag....you must be good with the ladies..since you seem to be the perfect prick.
racer1812 is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 08:18 AM
  #8344  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
brent701's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,590
Trader Rating: 8 (90%+)
Default

Thanks for the link

Originally Posted by bds81175
If you want to raise the roll center, you need to drop the inside camber link mounting location (ie. remove washers). I know, it's counter-intuitive but that's the way it works. Raising and lowering roll centers on the B4 is easy so I would say just give it a shot. You won't even need to adjust the camber length. Just pop the rod end off, move the stud up or down, and pop the rod end back on. For your own sanity, try moving in both directions and see how it feels when you are driving it. That's the best way to test these things anyways. Report back when you find out. It would be awesome to have some of these links verified. I need to do something similar with mine. I actually have a problem getting the back end to hook up coming out of hairpins. I think I rotate a little too easily.
Thanks for clearing it up. I will be testing this out tonight at the house in the street and Wed at the track.
brent701 is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 09:03 AM
  #8345  
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

Originally Posted by Jake S
ooo ima be this douchbag...

NUH UH!!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Left-Right-GT2
They won't fit a b4 or t4...
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 10:14 AM
  #8346  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
 
jirish617's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: chi south subs
Posts: 830
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE
Upper holes or raise ball stud (lower roll center) • Increases steering into corner
• Car is more responsive

Lower holes or lower ball stud (higher roll center)
• Decreases steering into corner
• Car is less responsive
• Use in high-grip conditions

also if you go to xrays web site and look at the tuning guide it will help you under stand what things do.
at my local track, it is typically med-high bite, if i take certain turns with speed i go into a roll. I have washers under my ball studs, so a low roll center. when the track is wet my car is like on rails, other than if i roll certain times...would removing the washers probably fix that then if the track is wet?
jirish617 is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 10:40 AM
  #8347  
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SoCal - Chillin in the LBC
Posts: 1,076
Trader Rating: 120 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by danielXIII
I'm picking up a used b4.1. I have a new castle sv2 and 4pole 4600kv sitting around.

Is this set up too much torque for the b4.1? I don't want to be doing wheelies on the track! If so, any solutions? Thanks fellas
That may be a bit too much motor. The B4.1 weighs next to nothing. I run a 17.5 (2200kv)in my B4.1 and it flies. I can keep up with almost all at the track. I tried a 13.5 (3300kv)and this thing was a bullet. Now this is just my opinion on my experience with it.
jamr1130 is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 10:41 AM
  #8348  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 8,616
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jirish617
at my local track, it is typically med-high bite, if i take certain turns with speed i go into a roll. I have washers under my ball studs, so a low roll center. when the track is wet my car is like on rails, other than if i roll certain times...would removing the washers probably fix that then if the track is wet?
following the given logic and trying to remember from my experiences, use a lower ball stud / longer link in higher bite. This will make the car rotate flatter if I remember correctly, which should free it up some. Kind of like throwing a big ole fat sway bar on the back.

One of you experts correct me if I'm off here.
Bob Barry is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 01:09 PM
  #8349  
Moderator
iTrader: (20)
 
bds81175's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Litchfield, Minnesota
Posts: 2,745
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jirish617
at my local track, it is typically med-high bite, if i take certain turns with speed i go into a roll. I have washers under my ball studs, so a low roll center. when the track is wet my car is like on rails, other than if i roll certain times...would removing the washers probably fix that then if the track is wet?
Even adding a bit more camber in the rear would probably help. Lowering your ride height would help too.
bds81175 is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 02:50 PM
  #8350  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
idrummerboy13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Deer Park
Posts: 2,021
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

how are the savox servos? I am running a 4800s which is 90z of torque .11 sec

It is old and starting to see it's last days. What servos are you guys running?

I looked at the a.e one and it was nothing special just nice, savox had nice specs and orion had really good looking specs.
idrummerboy13 is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 03:02 PM
  #8351  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
brent701's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,590
Trader Rating: 8 (90%+)
Default

Originally Posted by idrummerboy13
how are the savox servos? I am running a 4800s which is 90z of torque .11 sec

It is old and starting to see it's last days. What servos are you guys running?

I looked at the a.e one and it was nothing special just nice, savox had nice specs and orion had really good looking specs.
I love my Savox servos
I run a 1258TG in my Buggy and SC10 and a 1256TG in my 4x4
1258TG
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .08
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 166.6

1256TG
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .15
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 277.7

I may try a little faster one and go with a smaller servo or same speed but smaller servo.
brent701 is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 03:36 PM
  #8352  
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
 
HighLife420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 1,189
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

I use a Savox 1258TG in my B4.1, good servo, a tad bit noisy and you need to use a ton of subtrim to get it centered.

However, the best servo i have used or currently use is the XP DS1015, hands down.

Im sure there is better, but the DS1015 is dam good.
HighLife420 is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 03:56 PM
  #8353  
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SoCal - Chillin in the LBC
Posts: 1,076
Trader Rating: 120 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by brent701
I love my Savox servos
I run a 1258TG in my Buggy and SC10 and a 1256TG in my 4x4
1258TG
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .08
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 166.6

1256TG
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .15
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 277.7

I may try a little faster one and go with a smaller servo or same speed but smaller servo.
My exact servo set up for the same cars. Performs great.
B4.1 and SC10 2wd-1258TG
SC10 4x4- 1256TG
jamr1130 is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 04:27 PM
  #8354  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
 
mjk1210's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,539
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jirish617
at my local track, it is typically med-high bite, if i take certain turns with speed i go into a roll. I have washers under my ball studs, so a low roll center. when the track is wet my car is like on rails, other than if i roll certain times...would removing the washers probably fix that then if the track is wet?
Jirish, our track is high bite to SUPER high bite. Most tracks that people call high bite aren't even close to ours. .. For future reference with your questions.

To answer this question...yes, removing washers could help. Shortening the camber links also causes the chassis to roll less and gets rid of traction rolling really quick. You could also lower the ride height a little or add limiters to the rear shocks. Keep in mind, all these changes also have other handling consequences. Some you might like, some you might not. I'll be at the track tomorrow if you want to try some stuff.
mjk1210 is offline  
Old 12-09-2011, 07:33 PM
  #8355  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (30)
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 353
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

What is a good pinion size to use with a 10.5 turn and a stock 81t spur gear? I will be running a small/med size indoor track.
Jay13 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.