Originally Posted by daverobbo5 (Post 9985594)

anybody wanna chuck an idea around for this one? thanks

Originally Posted by Rotax125 (Post 9985300)

Well mine turned up 2 1/2 hours ago.. :D

For anyone new to building, in step 5 on the transmission it tells you to put ball stud washers under the bolts that hold the motor plate on.. With these washers on, there is not much tread captured in the motor mount (now there will be guys saying "ive not had a problem with it") more threads=stronger join. Take the washers off, you dont need them, the bolt will never pull through the gearbox.. This step also tells you to put tread lock on the bolts..:eek: Not sure why, they go straight through plastic.. You only need to put tread lock on the end of the bolt later in step 6 when fitting the motor mount..

Its a shame this thing is going together so quickly..

Originally Posted by carbons2k (Post 9985923)

Is anyone running a t4 chassis on a b4.1? What body are you using? Pix?

Originally Posted by Cummins Driver (Post 9984225)

Just thought id post some pictures of my recently purchased Associated T4. Wasnt really looking too hard for one, but I found it for a deal that im pretty sure i cant go wrong on :cool: Came with a ZTW 60a ESC, Novak ballistic 5800kv motor, Savox 1290mg servo, RPM rear arms, and some FT parts including the hinge pin brace, servo mount, motor plate, battery strap and I think the shocks as well. Not sure i like the body :lol: I jumped the gearing up to 20/87 and its much better than the 15/87 it came to me with. Has some actual get up and go, and decent top end now. It could probably still handle more gearing, but its pretty good as is now :cool:

Originally Posted by Rotax125 (Post 9985429)

Well my build has come to an end.. AE have given me 2.0in rear camber link turnbuckles instead of 2.8in... :cry:

Wow, my first REAL problem ive had with any AE kit..

Sorry they fit.. Another manual mistake..No one else picking these up?

67.4mm between ball stud centers gives me about 0 degrees..Big difference to 89mm.. Ill check with Hudy when its done..

Originally Posted by jirish617 (Post 9985182)

hey guys, so my local track just redid the layout, and it is much bumpier. My biggest issue is when im going through two turns in particular, they are enterting and exiting the straight so I take them with quite a bit of speed, is that the back end gets really hoppy in the turn under speed, if it does proceed to break loose, the car will then hook then go into a tumble. What can I do to the suspension to help with this? I am running a setup very similar to the Paul Wynn, except browns upfront instead of kyoshos, 2* camber instead of 1*. Greens in the rear, 30wt upfront 25 in the rear.

Originally Posted by zeakemedia (Post 9986781)

FTW Night Fox XL is made for a B4 with a T4 chassis. I am using the regular body and like it very well.

Originally Posted by derekbsmith (Post 9986763)

Does anyone sell cva boots for the b4* such that of the rc8be?

http://c0456141.cdn.cloudfiles.racks...c/asc89557.jpg ASC89557 Team Associated Pin Retainer O-Ring Set w/Boots (RC8.2)

thx!