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Ok guys. How do i need to setup the B4 hex adapters? Thick ones in front or back? If thick ones on back then the blue tapered washer is removed right?
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Does anyone still make aluminum a arms for the B4 ?
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Question guys. I bought a ft t4.1 from someone. Most of the stuff does look FT. But other stuff isn't. Two things in mind is the shocks and rear cvd. The shocks doesn't have the bottom screw caps, but instead you have to insert the shock orings from inside the track. The rear cvd are different from the cvd I see on ft t4.1. Any clue why is this? Im thinking it was a ft t4 being converted to a t4.1.
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Originally Posted by teeforb
(Post 9892315)
Question guys. I bought a ft t4.1 from someone. Most of the stuff does look FT. But other stuff isn't. Two things in mind is the shocks and rear cvd. The shocks doesn't have the bottom screw caps, but instead you have to insert the shock orings from inside the track. The rear cvd are different from the cvd I see on ft t4.1. Any clue why is this? Im thinking it was a ft t4 being converted to a t4.1.
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Originally Posted by RA99GT
(Post 9892395)
those are the v1 shocks from the t4. the t4.1 has the v2 shocks with the "cap" on the bottom. the t4 has cvd's (cup on the bone), while the t4.1 has cva's (cup on the axle).
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I just got my FT b4.1 together minus the shocks. Mine kit was missing the whole F bag. Once AE gets them to me I will be ready to go. What would be best to start with for gearing. I have a MMP and. Tekin 7.5 redline (overkill I know), it's what I had. My local track is a med sized indoor clay track. Has pretty good traction. I want to be fast but don't want to be so insanely fast that I am all over the place.
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hey ae 2wd gurus
my b4.1 keeps stripping the bukhead (bh) screw holes where the tiny dinky screws that hold the alum bh brace are... i mean, i mount a new bh, run the car a few packs, brace is wobbly and threads are stripped... and no i'm no scharzenegger when tightrening them. Yes i coul hi less stuff (although i'm not the worst....) but theres sthing funny here as this is the 2nd bh that goes to the bin now... any clue? thanks all paul |
typing w 1 hand (left) sorry
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the plastic bh sucks, i bought the FT alu bulkhead and haven't had that problem since. the plastic bh works fine on the sc10s though....
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
(Post 9892973)
typing w 1 hand (left) sorry
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i try to not use moe (expensive) alloy that needed on the car... plus my b4 never did thaT:weird: usually the beauty of ae stuff is it works out of the box just fine wthout hopups
Originally Posted by Jmuck69
(Post 9892991)
Where was the other hand?? :weird:
<insert cheap s3x joke here> |
Originally Posted by Lonestar
(Post 9893100)
i try to not use moe (expensive) alloy that needed on the car... plus my b4 never did thaT:weird: usually the beauty of ae stuff is it works out of the box just fine wthout hopups
right arm bandaged to my chest (tendinitis) <insert cheap s3x joke here> |
Originally Posted by Jmuck69
(Post 9893199)
That sucks!
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
(Post 9892971)
hey ae 2wd gurus
my b4.1 keeps stripping the bukhead (bh) screw holes where the tiny dinky screws that hold the alum bh brace are... i mean, i mount a new bh, run the car a few packs, brace is wobbly and threads are stripped... and no i'm no scharzenegger when tightrening them. Yes i coul hi less stuff (although i'm not the worst....) but theres sthing funny here as this is the 2nd bh that goes to the bin now... any clue? thanks all paul 2 things to try. First put some thin CA in the bulkhead screw holes but don't put the screws in until the CA dries. Make sure the CA is a thin coat and doesn't fill up the hole. Next thing is to tap them out with a 440 tap. Just don't go too far in cause the holes aren't very deep. Once the tap bottoms unscrew it then put some 440x3/8" screws in. If those ever come loose put a little CA in there like option one. Don't glue the screws in though cause when you take the screws out the plastic threads will come out with the screw. |
Does anyone still make aluminum a arms for the B4 ? |
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