RC10B4.1 FT/WC
06-27-2011 | 10:10 PM
#3556
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 118
I've run the b4.1 w/ the T4.1 chassis and really liked it. At first I found it lacked the exit steering I was used to, however after sticking with it I was able to drive it more agressively and the car felt more consistant. Also The bodies I tried on it were the J82 body and the FTW Night Fox XL and I found the FTW body to handle the best.
06-27-2011 | 10:27 PM
#3557
I pretty much ran Ryan Cavalieri's indoors setup with a couple of changes
1. I ran losi shock oils 30w/F 27.5w/R (From I hear losi and associated oils have slightly different viscosities)
2. I ran 3.5deg. toe block (idk what cavalieri ran)
3. C upper on 0deg. hubs (The carbon fiber one) with the U brace sanded flat.
4. Black Kyosho spring on rear shocks (They don't bind on shock bodies)
5. FTW Night Fox Xl body (felt like it gave me more steering than J82 body)
6. T4.1 chassis obviously
I ran this setup on indoor high bite clay tracks to top soil tracks and found it to be a good overall setup.
1. I ran losi shock oils 30w/F 27.5w/R (From I hear losi and associated oils have slightly different viscosities)
2. I ran 3.5deg. toe block (idk what cavalieri ran)
3. C upper on 0deg. hubs (The carbon fiber one) with the U brace sanded flat.
4. Black Kyosho spring on rear shocks (They don't bind on shock bodies)
5. FTW Night Fox Xl body (felt like it gave me more steering than J82 body)
6. T4.1 chassis obviously
I ran this setup on indoor high bite clay tracks to top soil tracks and found it to be a good overall setup.
06-27-2011 | 10:31 PM
#3558
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 118
I pretty much ran Ryan Cavalieri's indoors setup with a couple of changes
1. I ran losi shock oils 30w/F 27.5w/R (From I hear losi and associated oils have slightly different viscosities)
2. I ran 3.5deg. toe block (idk what cavalieri ran)
3. C upper on 0deg. hubs (The carbon fiber one) with the U brace sanded flat.
4. Black Kyosho spring on rear shocks (They don't bind on shock bodies)
5. FTW Night Fox Xl body (felt like it gave me more steering than J82 body)
6. T4.1 chassis obviously
I ran this setup on indoor high bite clay tracks to top soil tracks and found it to be a good overall setup.
1. I ran losi shock oils 30w/F 27.5w/R (From I hear losi and associated oils have slightly different viscosities)
2. I ran 3.5deg. toe block (idk what cavalieri ran)
3. C upper on 0deg. hubs (The carbon fiber one) with the U brace sanded flat.
4. Black Kyosho spring on rear shocks (They don't bind on shock bodies)
5. FTW Night Fox Xl body (felt like it gave me more steering than J82 body)
6. T4.1 chassis obviously
I ran this setup on indoor high bite clay tracks to top soil tracks and found it to be a good overall setup.
06-27-2011 | 10:42 PM
#3559
sorry haven't been on in a while.. I took some cell phone pics tonight at the track after doing some more tuning with the 22 shocks. I will post pics and do a little write up tomorrow.
-cpt.
-cpt.
06-27-2011 | 11:44 PM
#3561
What motor and ECU do you run in the t4.1?
Do they make a larger battery hold down?
Also the shaft for the motor I'm going to use is too long for the Spur Gear Cover any ideas?
Just put a hole in it?
Thanks
Do they make a larger battery hold down?
Also the shaft for the motor I'm going to use is too long for the Spur Gear Cover any ideas?
Just put a hole in it?
Thanks
06-28-2011 | 11:40 AM
#3564
22 shocks
So i just realized that not only are the pics I took at the track pretty crappy, taken with my crappy cell phone camera, but I took all 3 from the wrong angle that doesn't really show how they are mounted and modified! Sorry guys... I will get you better pictures later!
General Information:
The 22 shocks fit with almost zero modification
The 22 shocks are the same length as b4 shocks (at least to the eye)
Mounting the front shocks:
upper mount:
I removed the blue aluminum AE shock bushing, since they are smaller in diameter than the 22s. The issue now, is the shock screw is A) not secure to the shock tower, and b) a little short. So I replaced the stock length screw with one that is just a tad longer. I think 7/8ths, but don't quote me. To secure the screw to the shock tower, I used a tiny 4/40 lock nut. The ones I have I think are losi, small, and gold in color. (Something like this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inum-Locknut-5 ). Not only does the lock nut lock the screw to the tower, but it provides the EXACT right spacing to keep the shock from rubbing the shock tower. Simply use the factory 22 shock bushing, and a larger sized locking nut for the very back, so the shock doesn't pop off the bushing.
lower mount:
The lower mount onto the arm works just fine, but there is a little play as the 22 shock eyelets are skinnier. I simply used a 1mm shim from this package here: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lstud-Washer-8
Mounting the rear shocks:
upper mount:
The rears were just a tad trickier, but still painfully simple. The top shock screw issue is the same... I jused a slightly longer screw, with the same locking nut on the back to secure it to the shock tower, but the issue now, is that when you use the factory 22 shock bushing, it pushing the shock TOO far back, and the shock spring will bind on the camber link. However, there is no clearance issue with the shock tower. So all I did was bust out my sand paper, and file down the thickness of the 22 shock bushing. So instead of there being like 5 or 6mm of "standoff thickness" on the side of the bushing, I have about 1mm. (you can see the difference in width in the middle picture below)
lower mount:
The shock is still a tad close to the camber link, so the bottom just needs to be shimmed out a bit. I used the thicker 2mm blue washer from the link posted above, and clearance is perfect.
Springs/Oil:
I did a bit of testing to determine which spring rates are needed for symmetry in rebound rate between the front and rear of the car. Considering the front of the car is much lighter in the front compared to the front of the 22, it was no surprise that red/F and yellow/R wasn't a good match. it was too soft in the rear. I ended up with red/F and pink/R. What piston and oil you run from there, is up to you. I am running 56 pistons with 25/F and 20/R.
General Information:
The 22 shocks fit with almost zero modification
The 22 shocks are the same length as b4 shocks (at least to the eye)
Mounting the front shocks:
upper mount:
I removed the blue aluminum AE shock bushing, since they are smaller in diameter than the 22s. The issue now, is the shock screw is A) not secure to the shock tower, and b) a little short. So I replaced the stock length screw with one that is just a tad longer. I think 7/8ths, but don't quote me. To secure the screw to the shock tower, I used a tiny 4/40 lock nut. The ones I have I think are losi, small, and gold in color. (Something like this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inum-Locknut-5 ). Not only does the lock nut lock the screw to the tower, but it provides the EXACT right spacing to keep the shock from rubbing the shock tower. Simply use the factory 22 shock bushing, and a larger sized locking nut for the very back, so the shock doesn't pop off the bushing.
lower mount:
The lower mount onto the arm works just fine, but there is a little play as the 22 shock eyelets are skinnier. I simply used a 1mm shim from this package here: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lstud-Washer-8
Mounting the rear shocks:
upper mount:
The rears were just a tad trickier, but still painfully simple. The top shock screw issue is the same... I jused a slightly longer screw, with the same locking nut on the back to secure it to the shock tower, but the issue now, is that when you use the factory 22 shock bushing, it pushing the shock TOO far back, and the shock spring will bind on the camber link. However, there is no clearance issue with the shock tower. So all I did was bust out my sand paper, and file down the thickness of the 22 shock bushing. So instead of there being like 5 or 6mm of "standoff thickness" on the side of the bushing, I have about 1mm. (you can see the difference in width in the middle picture below)
lower mount:
The shock is still a tad close to the camber link, so the bottom just needs to be shimmed out a bit. I used the thicker 2mm blue washer from the link posted above, and clearance is perfect.
Springs/Oil:
I did a bit of testing to determine which spring rates are needed for symmetry in rebound rate between the front and rear of the car. Considering the front of the car is much lighter in the front compared to the front of the 22, it was no surprise that red/F and yellow/R wasn't a good match. it was too soft in the rear. I ended up with red/F and pink/R. What piston and oil you run from there, is up to you. I am running 56 pistons with 25/F and 20/R.
Last edited by Cpt.America; 07-08-2011 at 02:49 PM.
06-28-2011 | 11:52 AM
#3565
I could kiss you. My car is in dire need of big bores, as my local track gets pretty blown out (think surface of the moon).
Sucks that I just picked up a set of front and rear springs though. Oh well... TLR here I come.
edit: On another note, why'd you stop running the 22? Just for the sake of comparison?
Sucks that I just picked up a set of front and rear springs though. Oh well... TLR here I come.
edit: On another note, why'd you stop running the 22? Just for the sake of comparison?
06-28-2011 | 12:18 PM
#3566
So i just realized that not only are the pics I took at the track pretty crappy, taken with my crappy cell phone camera, but I took all 3 from the wrong angle that doesn't really show how they are mounted and modified! Sorry guys... I will get you better pictures later!
General Information:
The 22 shocks fit with almost zero modification
The 22 shocks are the same length as b4 shocks (at least to the eye)
Mounting the front shocks:
upper mount:
I removed the blue aluminum AE shock bushing, since they are smaller in diameter than the 22s. The issue now, is the shock screw is A) not secure to the shock tower, and b) a little short. So I replaced the stock length screw with one that is just a tad longer. I think 7/8ths, but don't quote me. To secure the screw to the shock tower, I used a tiny 4/40 lock nut. The ones I have I think are losi, small, and gold in color. (Something like this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inum-Locknut-5 ). Not only does the lock nut lock the screw to the tower, but it provides the EXACT right spacing to keep the shock from rubbing the shock tower. Simply use the factory 22 shock bushing, and a larger sized locking nut for the very back, so the shock doesn't pop off the bushing.
lower mount:
The lower mount onto the arm works just fine, but there is a little play as the 22 shock eyelets are skinnier. I simply used a 1mm shim from this package here: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lstud-Washer-8
Mounting the front shocks:
upper mount:
The rears were just a tad trickier, but still painfully simple. The top shock screw issue is the same... I jused a slightly longer screw, with the same locking nut on the back to secure it to the shock tower, but the issue now, is that when you use the factor 22 shock bushing, it pushing the shock TOO far back, and the shock spring will bind on the camber link. However, there is no clearance issue with the shock tower. So all I did was bust out my sand paper, and file down the thickness of the 22 shock bushing. So instead of there being like 5 or 6mm of "standoff thickness" on the side of the bushing, I have about 1mm. (you can see the difference in width in the middle picture below)
lower mount:
The shock is still a tad close to the camber link, so the bottom just needs to be shimmed out a bit. I used the thicker 2mm blue washer from the link posted above, and clearance is perfect.
Springs/Oil:
I did a bit of testing to determine which spring rates are needed for symmetry in rebound rate between the front and rear of the car. Considering the front of the car is much lighter in the front compared to the front of the 22, it was no surprise that red/F and yellow/R wasn't a good match. it was too soft in the rear. I ended up with red/F and pink/R. What piston and oil you run from there, is up to you. I am running 56 pistons with 25/F and 20/R.
General Information:
The 22 shocks fit with almost zero modification
The 22 shocks are the same length as b4 shocks (at least to the eye)
Mounting the front shocks:
upper mount:
I removed the blue aluminum AE shock bushing, since they are smaller in diameter than the 22s. The issue now, is the shock screw is A) not secure to the shock tower, and b) a little short. So I replaced the stock length screw with one that is just a tad longer. I think 7/8ths, but don't quote me. To secure the screw to the shock tower, I used a tiny 4/40 lock nut. The ones I have I think are losi, small, and gold in color. (Something like this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inum-Locknut-5 ). Not only does the lock nut lock the screw to the tower, but it provides the EXACT right spacing to keep the shock from rubbing the shock tower. Simply use the factory 22 shock bushing, and a larger sized locking nut for the very back, so the shock doesn't pop off the bushing.
lower mount:
The lower mount onto the arm works just fine, but there is a little play as the 22 shock eyelets are skinnier. I simply used a 1mm shim from this package here: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lstud-Washer-8
Mounting the front shocks:
upper mount:
The rears were just a tad trickier, but still painfully simple. The top shock screw issue is the same... I jused a slightly longer screw, with the same locking nut on the back to secure it to the shock tower, but the issue now, is that when you use the factor 22 shock bushing, it pushing the shock TOO far back, and the shock spring will bind on the camber link. However, there is no clearance issue with the shock tower. So all I did was bust out my sand paper, and file down the thickness of the 22 shock bushing. So instead of there being like 5 or 6mm of "standoff thickness" on the side of the bushing, I have about 1mm. (you can see the difference in width in the middle picture below)
lower mount:
The shock is still a tad close to the camber link, so the bottom just needs to be shimmed out a bit. I used the thicker 2mm blue washer from the link posted above, and clearance is perfect.
Springs/Oil:
I did a bit of testing to determine which spring rates are needed for symmetry in rebound rate between the front and rear of the car. Considering the front of the car is much lighter in the front compared to the front of the 22, it was no surprise that red/F and yellow/R wasn't a good match. it was too soft in the rear. I ended up with red/F and pink/R. What piston and oil you run from there, is up to you. I am running 56 pistons with 25/F and 20/R.
06-28-2011 | 12:20 PM
#3567
So i just realized that not only are the pics I took at the track pretty crappy, taken with my crappy cell phone camera, but I took all 3 from the wrong angle that doesn't really show how they are mounted and modified! Sorry guys... I will get you better pictures later!
General Information:
The 22 shocks fit with almost zero modification
The 22 shocks are the same length as b4 shocks (at least to the eye)
Mounting the front shocks:
upper mount:
I removed the blue aluminum AE shock bushing, since they are smaller in diameter than the 22s. The issue now, is the shock screw is A) not secure to the shock tower, and b) a little short. So I replaced the stock length screw with one that is just a tad longer. I think 7/8ths, but don't quote me. To secure the screw to the shock tower, I used a tiny 4/40 lock nut. The ones I have I think are losi, small, and gold in color. (Something like this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inum-Locknut-5 ). Not only does the lock nut lock the screw to the tower, but it provides the EXACT right spacing to keep the shock from rubbing the shock tower. Simply use the factory 22 shock bushing, and a larger sized locking nut for the very back, so the shock doesn't pop off the bushing.
lower mount:
The lower mount onto the arm works just fine, but there is a little play as the 22 shock eyelets are skinnier. I simply used a 1mm shim from this package here: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lstud-Washer-8
Mounting the front shocks:
upper mount:
The rears were just a tad trickier, but still painfully simple. The top shock screw issue is the same... I jused a slightly longer screw, with the same locking nut on the back to secure it to the shock tower, but the issue now, is that when you use the factor 22 shock bushing, it pushing the shock TOO far back, and the shock spring will bind on the camber link. However, there is no clearance issue with the shock tower. So all I did was bust out my sand paper, and file down the thickness of the 22 shock bushing. So instead of there being like 5 or 6mm of "standoff thickness" on the side of the bushing, I have about 1mm. (you can see the difference in width in the middle picture below)
lower mount:
The shock is still a tad close to the camber link, so the bottom just needs to be shimmed out a bit. I used the thicker 2mm blue washer from the link posted above, and clearance is perfect.
Springs/Oil:
I did a bit of testing to determine which spring rates are needed for symmetry in rebound rate between the front and rear of the car. Considering the front of the car is much lighter in the front compared to the front of the 22, it was no surprise that red/F and yellow/R wasn't a good match. it was too soft in the rear. I ended up with red/F and pink/R. What piston and oil you run from there, is up to you. I am running 56 pistons with 25/F and 20/R.
General Information:
The 22 shocks fit with almost zero modification
The 22 shocks are the same length as b4 shocks (at least to the eye)
Mounting the front shocks:
upper mount:
I removed the blue aluminum AE shock bushing, since they are smaller in diameter than the 22s. The issue now, is the shock screw is A) not secure to the shock tower, and b) a little short. So I replaced the stock length screw with one that is just a tad longer. I think 7/8ths, but don't quote me. To secure the screw to the shock tower, I used a tiny 4/40 lock nut. The ones I have I think are losi, small, and gold in color. (Something like this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...inum-Locknut-5 ). Not only does the lock nut lock the screw to the tower, but it provides the EXACT right spacing to keep the shock from rubbing the shock tower. Simply use the factory 22 shock bushing, and a larger sized locking nut for the very back, so the shock doesn't pop off the bushing.
lower mount:
The lower mount onto the arm works just fine, but there is a little play as the 22 shock eyelets are skinnier. I simply used a 1mm shim from this package here: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lstud-Washer-8
Mounting the front shocks:
upper mount:
The rears were just a tad trickier, but still painfully simple. The top shock screw issue is the same... I jused a slightly longer screw, with the same locking nut on the back to secure it to the shock tower, but the issue now, is that when you use the factor 22 shock bushing, it pushing the shock TOO far back, and the shock spring will bind on the camber link. However, there is no clearance issue with the shock tower. So all I did was bust out my sand paper, and file down the thickness of the 22 shock bushing. So instead of there being like 5 or 6mm of "standoff thickness" on the side of the bushing, I have about 1mm. (you can see the difference in width in the middle picture below)
lower mount:
The shock is still a tad close to the camber link, so the bottom just needs to be shimmed out a bit. I used the thicker 2mm blue washer from the link posted above, and clearance is perfect.
Springs/Oil:
I did a bit of testing to determine which spring rates are needed for symmetry in rebound rate between the front and rear of the car. Considering the front of the car is much lighter in the front compared to the front of the 22, it was no surprise that red/F and yellow/R wasn't a good match. it was too soft in the rear. I ended up with red/F and pink/R. What piston and oil you run from there, is up to you. I am running 56 pistons with 25/F and 20/R.
