RC10B4.1 FT/WC
10-09-2012 | 09:31 PM
You guys don't have to shave the shock towers to install these. I installed mine with the spacers and bolts provided, may not necessarily be per exact instruction, but mine do not rub at all.
Front with .090" black spacer per instruction:
Rear not per instruction, 1 .030" silver spacer top on long mounting stub (don't really need it, am going to shorten up the gap) and 1 .090" black spacer bottom. Barely, but still clears the turnbuckle with C hub:
Front with .090" black spacer per instruction:
Rear not per instruction, 1 .030" silver spacer top on long mounting stub (don't really need it, am going to shorten up the gap) and 1 .090" black spacer bottom. Barely, but still clears the turnbuckle with C hub:
10-09-2012 | 09:42 PM
stock motor gearing?
this question has probably been asked before...but i have an indoor race this weekend and i need gearing suggestions for a Shurre 17.5T motor running on a blinkie mode LRP esc. this is the 1st indoor season running my AE WC...any help would be appreciated. 
10-09-2012 | 10:26 PM
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,006
From: Orange county CA
Try 33/72 Motor 33-35 timing. Pretty decent starting point with out knowing what kind of jumps you need to clear ect..
10-09-2012 | 10:51 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,220
From: Houston TX (formally Sou CA)
33/72 is a very good starting point. I would up the motor timing 35-38, but ALWAYS temp, run, and temp again.
10-09-2012 | 11:17 PM
10-10-2012 | 12:24 AM
It will make your car more controllable...do it, you'll like it. And for those that may have forgotten why AE made the "C" tower...here you go:
- New option C tower in 2.5mm carbon fiber.
- Lowers outer link positions for lower roll center.
- Provides more rear end stability.
- Used by Ryan Cavalieri and Ryan Maifield at the 2011 Reedy Race of Champions on the B4.1 buggy.
- For the B4, B4.1, B44, T4, T4.1, SC10.
Otherwise, if you shave the U-brace then the roll center will actually be higher and the car will be much more willing to rotate which is usually better when traction is good. This is all at the expense of some rear end stability.
10-10-2012 | 12:33 AM
Ok, a member, rigor, posted pics a littwhile back where it the turnbuckle was running the rear shocks. I'm having the same problem. After encountering that problem, I shaved the rear tower and only put on the rtr shock bushings w/out the spacer up top and the two washers on bottom and the turnbuckle is still hiring the spring.
What could I do?
Will it make my car uncontrollable if I put the c hubs on the back of the rear hub? I did that and it doesn't hit, could I do that?
What could I do?
Will it make my car uncontrollable if I put the c hubs on the back of the rear hub? I did that and it doesn't hit, could I do that?
One thing I have thought of doing but haven't tried was just swapping my left and right hubs (W/ C towers). Since the hubs are 0 degree, then there should be no issue with this and it creates a LOT of clearance for the spring but I have not actually run this yet. A note though is that this would only work on 0 degree hubs (otherwise when you flip other hubs you will have toe out.)
10-10-2012 | 12:50 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (38)
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Posts: 628
From: Las Vegas nv
BB install
Can people post pics of their big bore install's? I haven't had time to build/install mine yet and would just like some pics to see how those are installing them either shaving a little to alot of the towers, or using spacers etc....... Thanks in advance it'd be greatly appreciated.........
10-10-2012 | 01:48 AM
Here's a few install pics. My theory was shaving parts is bad and changing geometry is bad so I'm going to do a little of each as to not do to much of one. I'm happy with results. Will most likely be going to lunsford quick tune shock mounts as I'm really not liking the metal on metal action. What pivot ball would be suggested for these?!
10-10-2012 | 05:52 AM
This might have been done before but this takes the slop out of the hubs using the small button head screw used two hold hinge pins in .. perfect lenghth... also used both 1mm blue hub spacers
Last edited by NUZUM; 02-14-2013 at 06:24 AM.
10-10-2012 | 06:29 AM
It will make your car more controllable...do it, you'll like it. And for those that may have forgotten why AE made the "C" tower...here you go:
- New option C tower in 2.5mm carbon fiber.
- Lowers outer link positions for lower roll center.
- Provides more rear end stability.
- Used by Ryan Cavalieri and Ryan Maifield at the 2011 Reedy Race of Champions on the B4.1 buggy.
- For the B4, B4.1, B44, T4, T4.1, SC10.
10-10-2012 | 06:32 AM
You could also try keeping the tower in the stock location but flip the ballstud to the back and see if the tierod is at a funky angle.
10-10-2012 | 06:36 AM
There is technically nothing wrong with running the C hub towers on the back of the hubs. The angle of the link is not an issue since it will still be in the same plane, however the issue that could arise is if some how you exceed the range of motion of the ball cups which could then cause them to bind or pop off more easily.
One thing I have thought of doing but haven't tried was just swapping my left and right hubs (W/ C towers). Since the hubs are 0 degree, then there should be no issue with this and it creates a LOT of clearance for the spring but I have not actually run this yet. A note though is that this would only work on 0 degree hubs (otherwise when you flip other hubs you will have toe out.)
One thing I have thought of doing but haven't tried was just swapping my left and right hubs (W/ C towers). Since the hubs are 0 degree, then there should be no issue with this and it creates a LOT of clearance for the spring but I have not actually run this yet. A note though is that this would only work on 0 degree hubs (otherwise when you flip other hubs you will have toe out.)
10-10-2012 | 06:38 AM
Here's a few install pics. My theory was shaving parts is bad and changing geometry is bad so I'm going to do a little of each as to not do to much of one. I'm happy with results. Will most likely be going to lunsford quick tune shock mounts as I'm really not liking the metal on metal action. What pivot ball would be suggested for these?!