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-   -   RC10B4.1 FT/WC (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/418841-rc10b4-1-ft-wc.html)

D.Martijn 09-01-2012 06:59 AM


Originally Posted by Waflet (Post 11160714)
Hideeho
How far out do those stick out? Have you ever had a problem w/ them catching on stuff? Regardless, that is probably what is going on my sons buggy as he will usually strip one of the wheel screw per weekend :flaming:

Not much. Never had that problem :)
I'm doing this now for 2 years I think never got caught on a pipe.

Waflet 09-01-2012 07:06 AM


Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings (Post 11160769)
That would be 5-40

Hideeho
You know what I'm talking about, even if I don't:blush::lol:

3srcracing 09-01-2012 07:23 AM

This is what I did:
Grabbed a grinder
Piece of sand paper
Pain (optional)
and a ball stud with a hex on the bottom to tighten it.

Then continue to grind of the ball end until it leaves you a hex. You then get the sane paper to sand it to make it smooth. Since it will be rough gray if you pain some primer and paint (use the tape to tape off the threads) and then paint it if you wish. You now have a hex screw for your front axle.

Waflet 09-01-2012 08:00 AM


Originally Posted by 3srcracing (Post 11160834)
This is what I did:
Grabbed a grinder
Piece of sand paper
Pain (optional)
and a ball stud with a hex on the bottom to tighten it.

Then continue to grind of the ball end until it leaves you a hex. You then get the sane paper to sand it to make it smooth. Since it will be rough gray if you pain some primer and paint (use the tape to tape off the threads) and then paint it if you wish. You now have a hex screw for your front axle.

Hideeho
I really like that idea!
Just to push this concept over the top, how hard would it be to cut down a titanium ball stud? :eek::lol:

Venom1836 09-01-2012 09:00 AM


Originally Posted by FACTORYBUTNOT (Post 11160289)
Venom-Just get the Blue Associated Multi Wrench...it includes all the sizes you need for about $40.

Is it easy to switch between tools when working on your car?


Originally Posted by D.Martijn (Post 11160401)
I use these:

http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/6285/

Also put a ball stud spacer between the bearing and the screw
Otherwise the wheel can slide off the axle :)


I probably will do this, can I have a link to the spacer just so I know im getting it right?

Thanks!


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 11160728)
venom replace the ft axles with these. you will need 2 E clips to hold them on also. and 2 nuts. not sure if 4-40 or 5-40 on the nut.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Front-Axle-B4

Thats what I was thinking of doing at first but for some reason I know it will always give me a weird feeling of "downgrading" from the FT parts.



Ok, now how do I get the stripped screw off? :mad:

Waflet 09-01-2012 09:07 AM


Originally Posted by Venom1836 (Post 11161130)
...Ok, now how do I get the stripped screw off? :mad:

Hideeho
cut slot in the screw head with a dremel cutting wheel to turn it into a flat head screw, then use a flat head screw driver to get it out.

Venom1836 09-01-2012 09:10 AM


Originally Posted by Waflet (Post 11161152)
Hideeho
cut slot in the screw head with a dremel cutting wheel to turn it into a flat head screw, then use a flat head screw driver to get it out.

Is there a chance that I could accidently hurt the bearing?

Wild Cherry 09-01-2012 09:14 AM


Originally Posted by azwheelman (Post 11160301)
yea i do works great i also do the servo saver for i am to cheap to buy the avid al rack yet lol !

Every little bit helps , always hearing guys complaining about to much play ..
That's the reason I posted about....


been using

RPM ball cups
1mm shims where they fit
new suspension pins & ball studs when necessary


makes for a tight B4.1 ride:cool:

azwheelman 09-01-2012 09:20 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11161168)
Every little bit helps , always hearing guys complaining about to much play ..
That's the reason I posted about....


been using

RPM ball cups
1mm shims where they fit
new suspension pins & ball studs when necessary


makes for a tight B4.1 ride:cool:

yes sir all that works in keeping the front end tight ...i even file down the top hats a bit to get rid of slop ..on all my b4 t4 and sc10 lol!!

Waflet 09-01-2012 09:44 AM


Originally Posted by Venom1836 (Post 11161160)
Is there a chance that I could accidently hurt the bearing?

Hideeho
Yes there is. If you push hard on the cutting wheel & it grabs it will hit the bearing. If you cut to deep you will cut into the bearing. Both of these are easy to avoid with light, firm preasure on the cutting head (allways the best advice when using a dremel, let the spped do the work, not the preasure), & paying close attention to what you are doing. A dremel is not going to kill or maim you like a chain saw or circular saw, but as long as you respect how quickly it will remove material & pay close attention to what you are doing, it is not a tool to be feared.

Waflet 09-01-2012 09:46 AM


Originally Posted by azwheelman (Post 11161184)
...i even file down the top hats a bit...

Hideeho
tophats:confused:

jdeadman 09-01-2012 09:49 AM

+1 on the dremel I have also used Ca glue on the tip of the screw driver. let it set for a few moments then undo the screw to get the screw off just heat up the screw with a torch and the CA comes off

Also I have found some 5/64 hex screws in the 4-40 thread in my old screw pile. Don't know where they came from but never have a problem.

Wild Cherry 09-01-2012 09:49 AM


Originally Posted by Waflet (Post 11161247)
tophats:confused:

H.A.T. bushing
part #9659

D.Martijn 09-01-2012 10:17 AM


Originally Posted by Venom1836 (Post 11161130)

I probably will do this, can I have a link to the spacer just so I know im getting it right?

Thanks!


Ok, now how do I get the stripped screw off? :mad:

use these spacers:
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9630/

luke others said, take your dremel with the cutting blade/wheel and make a slot then take a flat screwdriver and unscrew it.

Venom1836 09-01-2012 10:41 AM

^ Thanks!


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