I was picturing that as a reason you would run that much weight. i used to run on a track similar to that and a little bit of extra weight over the rear helped alot.

Yes it does, I shaved half a second of my laps by adding the weight.
Managed to run the fastest lap ever ran by a 2wd buggy at my local track..

So it's not worthless to me

what degree is that toe block anyway?

3 degree of toe in

It was about 4-5 years ago when i was running on that track im referring to, i had a 1/2 oz behind the toe blocks, 1/4 ounce in all 4 triangles and i ended up moving my hubs forward and that helped enough to take the win last time running that track. The track was soo loose that i took the gamble before my main and added more rear toe in the hubs by .5 and moved them forward. i usually wouldn't make a change like that before a main but felt it was necessary. Started 2nd on the poll behind a stadium truck, passed him right away and pulled away from every one and there was some fast guys that day. Theres a video somewhere on youtube maybe i should try and find it again. I miss that car.. sold it since the 4.1 factory team was near coming out and never ended up with one then the track was in shambles and i started runing 8th scale nitro since i got a deal on a car.

"D" my apologies! Again...no slam against you or what you do. I'll stay out of this. And for the record, the ballast weight is 17 grams. Also, yes where I live, within a 2hr direction either way there are very nice hard packed clay tracks, where we do have the luxury of running real rubber tires as well.

I used to run 1oz in front of the tranny and 1/4 in each rear square with the hubs forward on my b4 ft non worlds. That is what 42 grams? I really like it that way on indoor smooth tracks. I have not tried that on my 4.1 WC though.

Hideeho

Well at 6g heavier than what is customary to run I would not call it overly heavy, I would call it personal preference on setup. As far as transfer of impact, that is not a piece that transfers impact (like an a arm), it is a piece that receives the transfer of impact & absorbs it. There are only a few pieces like that on the b4. I would say that piece, u-brace, & front top plate are the only ones that receive impact rather than transfer it. That piece & the u-brace are the only ones I would think are suitable to replace w/ aluminum. I want to try an aluminum top plate, but I don't expect to like it & I expect it will cause other complications. Because aluminum will endure, not absorb, the impact & flex that goes on around the front of a B4.1 I see that being a problem.

I would be interested in trying one of those in my b4.1, but I'm guessing that is a one off part.

I'm interested to know where you got it? I'd like to try one myself. Thanks.

I'm currently running the rear ballast, 1/2oz next to reciever and 1/4 oz in front of servo on the chassis wall with a Shorty pack. the car is so planted and nimble. I might try removing the rear ballast to see what effects that will have. One local racer runs no ballast weight whatsoever and his is dialed. I think in the end, ballast is a temporary solution and adjusting setup to a lighter car is ideal, but that one man's opinion.

Where are you coming up with that being only 6 grams heavier? That piece weighs 37 grams...the ballast weight is 17. I believe that would be "20" grams heavier, as in over twice what the ballast weight is. But again...to each his/her own here.

Here you go:

search for trishbits

If you would read, comprehend, think and then react, you would see that what he's referring to is the ballast weight (17g), and 7g in each rear triangle (like almost every published set up out there) adds up to 31g. 6g less than the mount in question. Which is most certainly brass, unless there is some heavy aluminum we don't know about!

Ok, off my box. Carry on!

here you go:
send them an email
www.trishbits.com/products.html

It seems that there are so many indoor tracks not that ribbed front tires seem rare. AKA does not even make them for the b4. But ribs are what we run. I am normally fairly cheap and run my ribs for a couple years......But I would like to maybe be more proactive on my tires. I noticed my last tires outside rib was rounded but the others were less worn, but still rounded. Would you consider those tires done? Or do you just swap out the front ribs when you not longer have the steering you like? In the past I have run tires till they were bald or my car pushed all the way to the pipe, lol. But I am working on my cheapness handy cap.