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Old 05-25-2013, 03:59 PM
  #4681  
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Entirely too much. I would just buy the scr or the scr-sp and run it. You can get an scr for about $150 and an sp for $225 or so. The scr performs quite well even with the small bore velvets.
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:36 PM
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What would it take for rtr ultima sc to become an scr?
(Just Cvd,ball diff, shocks?)
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:50 AM
  #4683  
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Originally Posted by Rc-007
What would it take for rtr ultima sc to become an scr?
(Just Cvd,ball diff, shocks?)
i have a rtr thats 4 or 5 years old that i run very competitively. some guys on here will tell you you need to change allthe hardware but i disagree. as you replace or upgrade parts upgrade that hardware. the rtr stock screws are selftaping type and phillips head drive. for the most part replace the shocks and your ready to rock.. the dogbone i have seen people run for years i installed cvds so i dont know about them i also installled a ball diff but you could run the gear diff np. start around 5k for diff fluid
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:04 AM
  #4684  
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Originally Posted by eper
i have a rtr thats 4 or 5 years old that i run very competitively. some guys on here will tell you you need to change allthe hardware but i disagree. as you replace or upgrade parts upgrade that hardware. the rtr stock screws are selftaping type and phillips head drive. for the most part replace the shocks and your ready to rock.. the dogbone i have seen people run for years i installed cvds so i dont know about them i also installled a ball diff but you could run the gear diff np. start around 5k for diff fluid
That's encouraging to know...considering I just got my first hobby rc(ultima sc)! I won't be able to get the velvet shocks yet so...

Do you guys think the stock electronics(almost stock-everything but esc...esc is sc-15wp)can hold up against 17.5 brushless systems? That is...if they allow me to race in stock class. I'll be running turnigy 5000mah and 6000mah 25c 2s lipos.(hopefully it won't get too hot with stock gearing...).
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:05 AM
  #4685  
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what are you guys using to rebuild the ball diffs in the scr-sp trucks ? Is mip diff kit the way to go or should i get the oem kyosho balls and rings ?
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:00 AM
  #4686  
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guys are there any mudflap mounts for this?
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 84 GT 5.0
what are you guys using to rebuild the ball diffs in the scr-sp trucks ? Is mip diff kit the way to go or should i get the oem kyosho balls and rings ?
I use the stock Kyosho rings, but use Acer Racing balls.
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Posvar
Sc10? This truck has rear traction and awesome mechanical grip to start with. The diff is 100 times better as well. I will never run an sc10 again.

In all fairness, the Sc10 is ok but the Kyosho is a better performer in my opinion and lasts lots longer in between rebuilds.

Matt
What about the SC10.2?

I am looking to switch the K cars for the remainder of this year, but they have no 4wd SC, a 2wd SC that is discontinued? I'm hoping at least we will see an RT6 soon.
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:42 PM
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Are there many hop ups for these SC's?
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 84 GT 5.0
what are you guys using to rebuild the ball diffs in the scr-sp trucks ? Is mip diff kit the way to go or should i get the oem kyosho balls and rings ?
i have been using the MIP diff kits to rebuild my diffs for months now. The outdrives on the MIP kit last much longer and performance is the same if not a little better. I would definitely recommend.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:58 AM
  #4691  
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b-fast are the best none oem diffs on the market. that being said the new diff parts in the rb6 are very good and last a long time if maintained and built properly..they will mount right in the sc. mud flaps? i dont run them so i dont have a answer to that. the truck doesnt need any hop ups except rear hubs. i like to add toe. in this truck i usually run 1 degree hubs. strc mkes hop ups and some exotek stuff will fit as well
skengines. a ae car is a ae car they handle and work great for a few weeks then they get all slopped out and arent the same. the plastic isnt the ideal material. with the kyosho the plastic doesnt wear out like that. like i said mine is 4plus years old and i dominated with it yesterday at a local trophy race. some parts like the chassis are still original.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:42 AM
  #4692  
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Originally Posted by Posvar
Entirely too much. I would just buy the scr or the scr-sp and run it. You can get an scr for about $150 and an sp for $225 or so. The scr performs quite well even with the small bore velvets.
Where I have been looking for a couple months now.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:56 AM
  #4693  
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Originally Posted by Gopher15
Where I have been looking for a couple months now.
used on these forums. Kyosho no longer makes the kits
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:24 PM
  #4694  
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Hi All
just picked up a scr sp and a proline toyota tundra body PN.3364-00
when i was checking the mounting hole proline recommend to they dont line up. if any one with the same setup can please advise the correct holes to use. i just want to make sure that i dont cut out the wrong holes.
cheers
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:32 AM
  #4695  
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Slash mounts are almost identical.
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