Chuck 21

iTrader: (1)

You will find out the SC-R is a GREAT truck after you nail down what you
need for your track and your driving style.

BUT" and heres the big BUT"

Unless you race on high bite tracks out of the box sucks, the Tebo set up
sucks even more.

Heres a good slick track set up I use:

1 degree aluminum rear hubs
C2 pistons rear drilled out with a 54 drill bit 30WT oil (Green AE springs)
3B pistons front 37.5 oil 75 Kyosho springs
Turn the bottom shock eyelets out 3 turns front and rear to give it lots
of roll in the corners.
Try the rear camber links long at first and play with them shorter if you
need more bite, but becareful because you will start to get a major
push in front if you don't need that much bite.

Ride height front arms just above level, rear dog bones just slightly below
level. 1 degree camber all around zero toe front.

Theres more things, but not knowing what track conditions your racing
on this will give you a good place to start.

PM me if I can help ya with anything else, I'll even PM you my cell # if
you'd like to talk instead of typing...

PS: Always run soft front tires,super soft rear, never run SS all around
on slick or low traction conditions...

Enjoy"

mdowney

iTrader: (21)

Before you make a ton of changes to your setup make sure you have the right tires. Tires are way more important than setup. Find out what tires the fast guys at your track are using - noting which compound they run and how they prep their tires.

Here are some notes on basic suspension changes that I made a long time ago and refer to often. I don't remember the source.

---

1) Ride height
- always measure when car is ready to run bc weight effects ride height
- Lower RH == more stable in turns, more prone to bottoming out
- Higher RH good for tracks with big jumps and rough terrain
- Adjusted using preload

2) Shocks
- you can adjust shock oil thickness and pistons (number and size of holes in the piston)
- heavier fluid increases damping- pistons with more/larger holes reduce damping
- match pistons with thickness of fluid: heavy fluid + larger/more holes
- increasing damping in all 4 shocks (heavier fluid) will make the car less likely to bottom out, it will bounce less over large bumps, and it will lean less while cornering.
- decreasing all around will make the car roll smoother over smaller bumps- increasing in the front will allow more rear grip and reduce spin outs but will reduce stearing.
- increasing in the rear will give more steering but a more squirrely rear end

3) Camber
- set between 0* and -3*
- negative camber improved cornering but reduces straight-line traction

4) Springs
- soft springs give you more traction on small bumps but they cause more body roll while cornering and that leads to reduced traction
- stiff springs excel on hard-packed, grippy tracks and soft springs are better on loose dirt
- large changes in springs should be accompanied by fluid changes. Soft springs need less dampening, stiff springs need more.

5) Shock angle
- shocks mounted more vertically are equivalent to stiffer springs and heavier dampening.

6) Upper-link geometry
- move it up to reduce negative camber while the car leans in a turn; good for cars set up to stay more flat in a turn.
- if your car is set up to lean more in turns you want to move the upper link down/out.

J-Fraz203

iTrader: (7)

you can also try moving the top of the rear shock out one hole...

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

Try -1 degree hubs in the rear. I have read somewhere in this thread that Tebo runs them everywhere except indoor clay. Use the stock 65 spring and lighter oil in the rear. Try moving some weight back too.

K. PORTER

iTrader: (1)

Hard to nail down exactly what might be the problem but if you are running the right tires the next thing I would try is tightening up the diff a "little". Sounds like this might be a new kit so your diff might not have been adjusted properly.

I know instantly when I rebuild my diff if it is not tight enough. Same issues as your having.

Keep us posted! Plenty of good help on here! We will get you going straight

cota4rt

iTrader: (31)

I am just picking up an SC-R coming from Losi and Assoc sc10 and need to get some rims for SC-R
I do not want the step style Traxxas or Kyo rims. AKA website says thier cyclone rims work.
Any experience or other ideas??
Thanks!

SpartanExec

iTrader: (1)

Well, had the first race with the SCR SP and man am I in love. Coming from an SC10 which I loved, this truck just takes it to the next level. It is easier and less stressful to drive, recovers from more mistakes, and the big bores really help keep the car planted. My SC10 would take forever to settle the suspension after a rumble strip or a double, this thing forgets it just went over something! ha.

Had a fluke thing happen on my first qual, just crazed the pipe and the right steering knuckle broke in half. After closer inspection it looks like mine had an air bubble in it so I don't think I'll have this problem again. So, missed the first qual got second in the 2nd qual and won the main!

I am a happy camper!

SpartanExec

iTrader: (1)

Here is the setup that I used if anyone is interested:

25 degree castor, thinnest shim, front hubs in the middle.
Rear wheelbase 2/3 forward, 2mm front, 4mm rear.
Yellow x gear FR RR springs
Losi 37.5 F 32.5 R
Ballcups on shock ends with ballstuds, 2mm internal limiters
Front shocks out on top, middle on bottom
Rear shocks in on top, out on bottom with 3mm spacer behind the ballcup on the shock end to lean the top of the shocks back.
Aluminum rear hubs in front outside hole, no spacer, middle hole with 1mm spacer on inside camber link.
1mm on front inside camber link, no other spacers on the front.
1.5 degree neg camber all around, 28mm rear, 30mm front.

My track is a fairly tight indoor track, smooth surface, med/high bite.

Also, Orion r10 pro, Orion 17.5 pro stock gen 3, futaba 4pks with BLS451 brushless servo. Smoothest driving setup I've ever driven!

Hope this might help someone!

SpartanExec

iTrader: (1)

The AKA rims are good, I use the Jconcepts rulux slash rears, they have more ribbing in them and seem a lot stronger and less flexible. I've run both though and they both work just fine. Choose what you like the look of better.

lewis4x4

iTrader: (8)

2 Questions:

1.) Not knowing what springs come with this kit, did you replace the springs? I heard that the Kit was Yellow/Red but I am not sure... So, if they are Yellow/Red, did you replace all four or just the red?

2.) You said: Rear shocks in on top, out on bottom with 3mm spacer behind the ballcup on the shock end to lean the top of the shocks back. - What does this do when you lean the top of the shocks back? Interested in learning more about what this does...

Thanks..

SpartanExec

iTrader: (1)

1.
I just replaced all of the springs. The one that come with the kit feel nothing like the yellow x gear springs, they seem to be a different material and a slightly different wire diameter. I just didn't want an unknown so I went with the x gears because I know they are consistent.
2. This is a trick I learned with my rB5, in my experience leaning them back slightly changes the way the truck reacts under power. Without the spacers at my track when I would get on the power down the straight, the rear end would walk around quite a bit, not out of control but it wandered a lot, I'm actually not sure why leaning the shocks back works, but it really helps keep the rear end solid.

Hope that helps!

lewis4x4

iTrader: (8)

Thanks... I'll give that a try...

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

So you're adding a 3mm spacer on the top? That would get them more in line with the arms.

SpartanExec

iTrader: (1)

I'm using ballcups in place of the shock ends with ballstuds screwed into the a arms, and I'm using a 3mm spacer behind the ballstud on the bottom of the shock, so it pushes the bottom of the shock forward towards the front of the truck effectively angling the top of the shock to the back of the truck. Sorry, it's kinda hard to explain and I'm not the greatest wif wurdz.

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

No, it makes sense to me. I have heard of a similar setup from someone else. I'll check it out next time I'm at the track.