Dino_D

If you change to a lighter weight diff oil, you will get more steering into the corner, but you may get wheel spin or reduced power exiting if any of the wheels lift of the ground because of a bump. Going thicker makes the understeer into a corner, but gives a better on power push on exit. Its actually nice to have a little bit of push than to have your car hook on exit. Normally I run between 3k-5k on the gear diff. Depending on grip level. However, I rather use springs and geometry to get the steering I need than to make the diff too light. You can try a heavier rear spring, change the caster to 20 or 25, run 3 or 2 degrees on the trailing block, or put 2 spacers on the top of the steering spindle instead of having it equally spaced out, or use a shorter front link. Experiment with one change at a time and see which setting you like best. Perhaps you may need combination of a few to get the car where you like.

Mopar

Thinner diff oil will tighten the car up where thicker diff oil will loosen the car. Suspension changes are easier and quicker to do than diff oil changes. Compare the time it takes to add or remove a pair of shims to ball studs as to pulling the trans, tear down, change oil in diff, and put it all back together. It takes maybe 5 min to do a shim change, and at least 30 min to change diff lube. Unless you have multiple diffs pre-built with different oils in your box ready to install, not a dollar wise alterative.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

Thanx for the input guys.

I have very good steering coming in, good steering coming out as long as I don't try to push it too much or I push. This is only a problem after the apex.
I like MX Flame's setup so far (who I bought it from) and will start messing with it but wanted to get a grip in the diff first.

I agree, changing RC takes minutes where a diff change takes 3 beers
I will be moving to RC, toe, camber and what not soon.

Thinking about it and tell me if I'm off on any of this in regards to exiting a turn...
A thinner oil will give you more turning traction in general and as said can be more prone to diffing out if traction is upset but will not push the front end as much under power (assuming power is kept in check with an accurate throttle finger feeding as much as rear traction will allow).
A thicker oil will not have as much traction in a turn but will keep a more equal power ratio to the wheels if traction is upset. The more locked in effect will push more exiting the turn (assuming the same accurate throttle finger not goosing it).

Leave fluid as is and try lengthen the rear camber link to try take a little on power traction away? Or raise the front inner link? Or both?

There are a few turns at two tracks that I just couldn't hold the line exiting and keep pace with the others, I would either be a hair slower and hold my line or same speed but exit a little wider. None of them 180° turns.
Using a stick pack now and have a shorty on the way to see if weight placement could help.

Mopar

What ever you do, make 1 change at a time until or unless you feel comfortable doing multiple changes. That way you'll know what change had what effect.

lovethebuggy

Hi guys... I asked the other day because my Ultra Sportman motor got wet and it wasn't working... I managed to make it work but it didn't last too long... Now is making a strange noise, it sounds like a real engine lol, and if it's still the car won't start, if i push it a little it will start to run and with no strength like no power... Checked the battery and it seems to be good, it had 8.2V of charge...
I would like to get a cheap motor, I'm not racing whatsoever, just for bashing and jumping... Would some of the turnigy trackstar motors will be good enough for that kind of use? And the ESC, it may be broken too?? It has a nice burned smell but i had never smelled it before so i can't say it is because of running the engine in that state...

I would be really grateful of some help it didnt last me one week :/

fq06

iTrader: (12)

That's why I want to get the diff figured out before I started playing with the rest.

I know it's not one thing, its the combination of many. But I kind of wanted to get the diff sorted before I started band-aiding it with other changes.
Guess I'll go down to 2k and then try 5k and get my answer from that. Then move on to suspension changes if needed once I have a feel for what I like in the diff fluid department.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

If the ESC works, it works. If it doesn't, it doesn't. If it smells toasty, not a good sign. I guess it could damage a motor if it's near failure and shorts sending trouble to your new motor. Safest to send it back for inspection or just run it and see. I would run it personally.

A $50 motor with good reviews http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...egory&path=112

Stay away from the beach
Waters terrible but sand is just about as bad.

lovethebuggy

Yeah i learnt that the hard way lol, i thought the water wont be so harmfull but i guess it is pretty bad...

Thanks for the motor, wich size should i go? If i buy an ESC too, just in case cause i dont want to buy the ESC later because i need to buy from another country and would take like ages...

Another annoying question (sorry the language barrier makes difficult sometimes to find in google) The can of those motors, the turnigys and the SMC that you gave me the link, are open, will this be harmfull? I will be playing in dirt, rough dirt and asphalt...

Thanks for the help!!

fq06

iTrader: (12)

The rtr ESC I believe has a 13.5t motor limit so you can't go lower (faster) than that without changing the ESC.
Hobbywing has good ESC/motor combos if you want to be safe and know that the ESC is not an issue once you get the motor. I think they have some 1/10 540 can offroad motors that are not vented to keep dirt out.
Speedpassion esc's seem to be ok though, at least send it in for repair so you have a decent backup ESC.
What size depends on what you want. Insane speed that's not easy to control, a 7.5t motor.
The motor you had with a good balance of speed and controllability is a 13.5t motor. That's probably a good choice as the gearing that's on your rtr will be at least close or maybe even right. Keep your motors around 160° or less for long life.

lovethebuggy

Around 160 AND away from the water lol

Thanks, i will take a look at those ESC, i think 7.5t will be awesome lol super power for play around

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

The stock ESC can take motors up to 8.5t on 2s lipo. You are fine on the ESC. Just throw in the cheap speed passion $40 motors on fleabay and have yourself a cheap basher/racer.

only $40 for a matching speed passion motor here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-Passio...item1c3b671fd5

lovethebuggy

Are you sure about the 8.5t? The manual says 9.5t... However, I think the ESC could be wrong too... How can I check?? I live outside US and don't have even a hobby story... :/

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Yes you are correct the limit is 9.5t on 2s lipo. And you can check that on Speed Passion's website here http://www.speedpassion.net/us/produ...?p=12280&c=ESC They show the motor limit for the Cirtix Stock Club Race ESC. Which should be the one that came with your RTR DEX210. A 10.5t motor or even pushing it with a 9.5t motor on that ESC would give you plenty of speed if all you wanted to do was bash and have fun jumping. If you put too much power in it and try to bash, I am sure you will be breaking stuff and without a local hobby shop, that leads to down time.

If I were in your shoes, I would either get another 13.5t speed passion motor or go for a bit more punch and grab a 10.5t since they are the same price.

lovethebuggy

Thank, I actually didn't think about the parts breaking... I guess I will be for the option you gave me

Do you think those motors are OK? I mean, the can seems like open some holes here and there, will the dirt damage it?? Or they are for off road cars...

fq06

iTrader: (12)

I agree ^^ stay with the 13.5 so you don't hit things as fast. Also if you change from a 13.5 you will need to change your gearing and with not having a hobby store near you... that will be a pain ordering gears and waiting to get them.

You will need to clean out the motor more often with a vented can. You can tape the holes up, those holes help with heat so watch your temps and change gearing accordingly to stay at or below 160°.
Viper makes a sealed can motor that would work well and there are a bunch of others as well. What online store do you order from?