Durango DEX210 Thread
Tech Apprentice
Could the citrix stock Support one of the cheap 9.5t motors? Thinking that my ultra sportman maybe does not have too much life to live I may be buying a 9.5t speedpasion v3.0 or a turnigy 9.5t 4120kv, which one would be better??
It is designed to run down to 4000kv motors. You'll be at the limit. I personally don't like running right at the limit of anything so I'd either choose a bit slower motor or a different esc even though it is technically rated for it.
Tech Apprentice
I'm not racing, I just want a little more speed... I guess I'm not pushing to the limits the ESC and motor as I can run for like 1:20 hs with a 5000mah battery...
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Just an honest question....does this buggy have any issues that need to be addressed...does anything routinely break? Thanks
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Honest answer, these are the things I have broken.
Rear Hub ripped Ball stud out - replaced with Exotek alloy's
Snapped rear g/box Ball stud - replaced with new G/box and Sumo alloy rear camber plate for extra support.
Snapped front C hub - replaced with stock plastic part but was thicker so I guess there was a revision from the part I ordered to the original kit part. Also Alloy version available.
Snapped front steering arm- replaced with stock item.
I also carry a spare set of shock towers because these are know to fail but I have not had a issue yet, carbon ones are also available.
I barked a ball diff also but that was my fault for not keeping on top of the tension after each race.
That's over I would say 12 race meets so not bad, its not as tuff as my 410 but, that thing is a tank.
These are just my experiences others may add more, another one can be the Rear Front hanger as its plastic out of the kit.
Rear Hub ripped Ball stud out - replaced with Exotek alloy's
Snapped rear g/box Ball stud - replaced with new G/box and Sumo alloy rear camber plate for extra support.
Snapped front C hub - replaced with stock plastic part but was thicker so I guess there was a revision from the part I ordered to the original kit part. Also Alloy version available.
Snapped front steering arm- replaced with stock item.
I also carry a spare set of shock towers because these are know to fail but I have not had a issue yet, carbon ones are also available.
I barked a ball diff also but that was my fault for not keeping on top of the tension after each race.
That's over I would say 12 race meets so not bad, its not as tuff as my 410 but, that thing is a tank.
These are just my experiences others may add more, another one can be the Rear Front hanger as its plastic out of the kit.
Shock towers are known to break from time to time. I am assuming those are gonna come in type B soon as well.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
I've ran mine quite a bit on turf and have broken 1 front arm (nothing would of survived that hit) and a couple rear towers on some ugly landings. The cheap STRC carbon tower solved that. I also have the alloy steering rack and both rear pivot blocks. As far as I'm concerned, the RF block, steering rack and STRC rear tower make this car a tank and will take a ton of abuse. I look forward to the new v2 coming very soon. The 410v4 upgrades are pretty nice.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
On the 210 v2 topic, what's the best guess of how they will do it? Ground up so the v1 buggies can not be upgraded to v2? Or little tweaks that a v1 owner can upgrade with?
Not sure of his Durango does things, this is my first one and curious.
Not sure of his Durango does things, this is my first one and curious.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
This brand may make a good two car line up 2wd Buggy and 2wd Shortcourse. Over the last couple of years I have been racing 1/8th scale. I have grown a bit tired of it. I use to love 2wd. I had a SC10 and B4.1 combo. I just built myself a b4.2 and loving it. Looking forward to building another buggy and Shortcourse for stock class.
Tech Addict
My guess of new parts:
New front a-arms, no gullwings anymore, as allready seen on the worlds
New rear arms, where you can mount the shocks in the front as well on the rear
New bodyshell, as also have seen already
New rear shock tower with mor mounting holes for the shocks, as also have seen already
New type-b plastic parts, like the new gearbox
Maybe a longer chassies
But how knows.....
We will see soon, i guess
I think, it will be an upgraded v1!?
My guess of new parts:
New front a-arms, no gullwings anymore, as allready seen on the worlds
New rear arms, where you can mount the shocks in the front as well on the rear
New bodyshell, as also have seen already
New rear shock tower with mor mounting holes for the shocks, as also have seen already
New type-b plastic parts, like the new gearbox
Maybe a longer chassies
But how knows.....
We will see soon, i guess
My guess of new parts:
New front a-arms, no gullwings anymore, as allready seen on the worlds
New rear arms, where you can mount the shocks in the front as well on the rear
New bodyshell, as also have seen already
New rear shock tower with mor mounting holes for the shocks, as also have seen already
New type-b plastic parts, like the new gearbox
Maybe a longer chassies
But how knows.....
We will see soon, i guess
If you look closely at the EOS #2 race of Jorn car, you can notice some of the new things he is running. As others have pointed out, new front and rear arms, new shell that looks like the DEX410v4, and you can see on the parts list, a bunch of new type B stuff. I would expect type B shock towers. I would also assume a +8 aluminum chassis is in the works. I really hope they just make a better gearbox cover with the new version. The original was just too fragile.
With the changes I've made to my car, I don't really see a need to pick up a V2. I'd change it too!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
That would be nice if the V1 base could be upgraded. Enjoying the class so far, definitely different from the 4x classes that I run.
Question on gear diff tuning...
I have the gear diff in with 3k oil now and it seems good. What I have noticed is once set in a turn I can add a lot of push with the throttle. Would going down to a 2k or even 1k oil help?
The tune feels good and I don't want to take grip away with RC changes or other tuning changes, I would like to play with the diff for now to help me hold the line from the apex out.
If I can't tune it out with diff fluid changes, I'll start working on the suspension settings.
Indoor clay med/high grip smooth.
Question on gear diff tuning...
I have the gear diff in with 3k oil now and it seems good. What I have noticed is once set in a turn I can add a lot of push with the throttle. Would going down to a 2k or even 1k oil help?
The tune feels good and I don't want to take grip away with RC changes or other tuning changes, I would like to play with the diff for now to help me hold the line from the apex out.
If I can't tune it out with diff fluid changes, I'll start working on the suspension settings.
Indoor clay med/high grip smooth.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
I bit the bullet and picked up the RTR version instead for $200 on Amain. Came with a complete spare +8mm chassis and all of the type-b parts. Gotta say, it handled as well as my old b4.1 worlds. I was astounded.
Durability has been awesome for a 2wd buggy, though the motor doesn't spin up all that quick to have a devastating front end collision. I did add the TBR front bumper. I am a strong believer in having these for a 2wd buggy, even in a race. Durability factor goes up substantially. But having the RTR kit and it's plentiful plastic bits has probably helped durability as opposed to the kit version.
The first race I entered it in, first time on the track even and I got a couple fast lap times in the start of the qualifiers. Finished 4th in the class out of 8. At the very least it is easy to get used to. Even if you are low on the drivers totem pole like myself lol.
A few things that will help though:
Add weights in front
Get rid of the servo saver if you have one
Get proper thumb screws for the battery tray (only helps loading times lol)
Just my 2 cents on this buggy in its stock form.
Durability has been awesome for a 2wd buggy, though the motor doesn't spin up all that quick to have a devastating front end collision. I did add the TBR front bumper. I am a strong believer in having these for a 2wd buggy, even in a race. Durability factor goes up substantially. But having the RTR kit and it's plentiful plastic bits has probably helped durability as opposed to the kit version.
The first race I entered it in, first time on the track even and I got a couple fast lap times in the start of the qualifiers. Finished 4th in the class out of 8. At the very least it is easy to get used to. Even if you are low on the drivers totem pole like myself lol.
A few things that will help though:
Add weights in front
Get rid of the servo saver if you have one
Get proper thumb screws for the battery tray (only helps loading times lol)
Just my 2 cents on this buggy in its stock form.